Dam Women!! *read diy mani related*
 

So as most of you know my project is almost done, mani is all polished welded and ready to go in all thats left is tap the pan and that kinda fun stuff.

Anyways to the point, my 21st birthday is on Jan 22 and yesterday the wife asked what I wanted, looking at etd's manifolds at the time I pointed and drouled and said that one (equal length SS top mount 600odd bux) and you know what she says...Sure.:eek:

So now I'm in a Huge predicament, I have my turbo system all together; full stainless log mani, nice and polished too, 3'' down pipe, t25 flanged, good condition t25 turbo, all the lines and fittings are ready ect.

On the other hand the etd manifold is beatiful...Stunning, perfect (imo) but I'd need a T3 (not hard to find I guess), i'd need bigger oil lines (take mine back and buy biggers ones/same with fittings), then I'd need a custom down pipe made $$$...

So what do you guys think? How does the etd mani fit in the miata engine bay? Will the Dp be retarded hard to make or anything? Should I just keep the t25 set-up since its already done? It is still winter up here though so I have a few months till theres pavement again lol.

Opinions please...Thanks,


-Dean

btw, I have emange (and soon a bego afpr), and wanna run 200whp, will upgrade to stand alone next winter prolly too. So is the mani too much?

I say stay with what you have, 200rwhp on a t25 should be attainable... $600 buys a lot of Sam Adams or Long Trail...

Steady the course, you're almost there! Ask for a Torsen or something.

But I have rx7 lsd!! And the etd mani is soooooooooo nice!:vash:

You guys realize this is what were talking bout right?

http://www.miata.net/isclassifieds/pictures/59156.jpg

vs...dun dun daaa!
Attachment 217104

(fyi not my hands lol)

The T3 setup would have a lot more headroom, but the log T25 would be considerably cheaper. I would go with the T3 setup, but I do fabrication, so it wouldn't be as big of a problem. I do sell tubing and can help you with some of the fab if you go the T3 route. You, my friend, have a tough decision.
-Michael-

Since your goal is 200 rwhp, stay with the t25. Spend the money on engine management.

The etd mani is nice looking, but you don't need it for your goals.

I think ETD will weld a t25 flange on top of the t3 flange for you.

YA Right :gay:
You're so soft and tender :bigtu:

Get the f-ing turbo on the car already and forget the bling. Spend the extra money on coke and whores or engine managment.

:)

married at 21? JESUS....

Stay with the log. Get a threesome

haha. yeah, you have everything pieced together...you'd need to get a wastegate and redo the downpipe, for what....100-200rpm quicker spool?

That is a beautiful manifold but a T25 with fast spool up is nice. I have a T25/28 on my car and a T28 with a divorced WG sitting in the garage. I was going to put it on but I like my spool so much that I scrapped the idea.

If you polished it make sure you clean the fingerprints off it before you fire it up the first time!

Go for a BEGI intake manifold and enthusa exhaust instead

your wife is letting you spend more money on your car. i wish that would happen to me more. spend it while you can

that sounds good BEGI INTAKE MANIFOLD.any manifold looks good when there is a turbo connected to it.

I would just stick with what you have now. Spend the money on the engine management.

I hate you guys...Your all just jealous!!! Its so nice...Maybe I'll just buy it and save it to look at..

Maybe i should clear this part up, My goal of 200whp is with the emanage, when I got standalone I will want more (lots more;) )...I just don't know how much my log will hold me back compared to the equal length down the road..Plus I really don't want to stick with the t25, I think with lapping she'll make to much heat sitting at such high rpms all the time..

Come on someone must think etd over coke, hookers and engine management?

I've been told the ETD isn't that great a manifold anyway no matter how good it looks. As well as that WG being on a single runner instead of in the collector like it should be. Some people like it but no matter how pretty it is you could spend your money elsewhere.
GET THE TURBO ON THE CAR ALREADY. Once you do get it on there and start driving it like you should be you won't give a damn what your manifold looks like but you will know you're car is way the hell faster than it was and you don't want anymore downtime. If you already have your manifold and a collasal 3" downpipe ready to go on then what the hell are you waiting on. Go burn off your first set of tires and get some stickier rubber so you don't kill yourself.

wait a sec, you're only 20 and you're married? I'd say stick with the log and use the money for tuning or a standalone or any of the 1000's of other fixes you'll need when you get the car "running" with the turbo.

I wouldnt run an ETD manifold. WG running off the cylinder #4 causes issues with boost creep. I would stay away from it. Its also just mild steel w/ high temp paint so it will also look like shit in about 6 months.

Yeah I wasn't sure if I should say something about that for fear of sounding stoopid, but the single-cylinder WG does seem like a weak design.

Alrite fine you guys win, I knew the WG placement wasn't the best either, gonna go press in the miata bushings today and prolly install diff,axles,ppf and wheels tom. Keep ya updated,


-Dean

i dont have boost creep and it still looks like new after over a year and a half.

I'd stay with the manifold you made. Looks good.

+1 Homebrew FTW
much cooler than store bought

They used to ceramic coat them, but anymore they just paint them and that paint will chip. I have seen a couple more recent ETD mani's that lose their luster quickly. I just remember Andrew ( MX592R ) on miata.net has creep issues with that manifold because of the wastegate placement.

BEST SOLUTION:

Sell me all your turbo stuff for 5 dollars and then get the ETD manifold.

I checked ETD's site. They make a 1.8L manifold for the FWD cars but I dont see the one for the miata anymore. All i see is a shorty manifold which is not the nice tubular equal length one that you guys are talking about.

Its SS not the mild steel one, and its the same as the fwd design I belive but thats not an issue anymore, I'll keep what I got and hopefully get most of it on tom.

lol 5 canadian or american?:eek5:

The wastegate location wasn't a problem regarding boost creep for me, but rather the bigger issue became the stress on the piping from the way the joint is constructed, my cheaper SS Ghettochrome manifold is a rip off of that manifold and it failed right there, and not through the weld, which tells me that the nature of the design may be problematic.

I think MX592's issues were more related to the wastegate than the location. I could make rock steady boost at 10 PSI. No creep.

Mark

I like the log one better lol.

i bet ya the etd cracks before your log does.

but it's like .125 weld els. and mine's mild steel so it may be less likely to crack.

proly true. but since it's already bought and paid for, i think he should put the $$$ toward something like a 6 speed. you know the 5 speed is gonna crap out anywhere north of 220hp.

Depends on his driving habits really. Besides, 5 spds are cheap.

I'd go with EM. The OP isn't at the point where he'll see the benefits of the ETD manifold. And especially the BEGI intake manifold.

Frank

Thanks for the help guys, as for the tranny, well my driving habits are most likely pretty hard, I did devour 2 1.6 diffs in no time, so I'm guessing I might drive alittle aggressively. And 5speeds may b cheap but up here I can't see it being easy to get one, or them being cheap for that matter lol. I'll start looking into the 6speed just for fun.

-Dean

that ETD manifold has a horrible placement for the wastegate. Keep what you have.

I dont know that I would worry about the tranny so much, as I would the differential. Usually the diff will go out before the tranny in sub 300whp levels, if you don't have a torsen. In fact that is probably one of my next projects...
-Michael-

So glad I have torsen, no worries in that department.

Anything new with the turbo install?

I broke my tranny @11psi chasing a F430 spyder....

Atleast it was worth it.

yeah, but did you win?

and I would keep the t25 setup. worse case scenario you have it on there for a year and sell it to upgrade after maxing it out. a quality manifold and downpipe like you made should bring $400 or more. I would get the Torsen in there.

no he didnt win he was just playin with it he had his gf in the passenger seat anyway and better stuff to do.

I chased him down river rd ( runs along the ohio river here in Louisville, rich part of the city ). Its a 2 lane road and has some twists to it...he couldnt get away from me. Then I went to hammer @ 4500rpm in 3rd after exiting a corner and it just ripped 3rd gear to shreds. I would expect him to pull away but he couldnt get rid of me.

with close to 300rwhp, you would probably keep up with him pretty good til about 130 or so.

right, but i was only running .7bar or 10-11psi. I dynoed @ 261whp and 245ft/lb @ 12psi.

I have an rx7 lsd (almost installed), finally getting time off and decent weather so maybe tomorrow I will b in the car.

As for the turbo, I'm trying to find a decent set of snap ring pliers so I can clock the center housing...Its proving to b a pita..Gonna soak that bitch tonite, hopefully it loosens' up a bit then I can continue with the turbo stuff.

Oh ya I needed a drain flange for the turbo and by chance a guy has one 300km away...Good thing my buddy is down there for the new year, and thats about all I need for the turbo hardware side.

I used a HUGE (maybe 16" long) set of needle nose pliers vs a snap ring tool when I did mine. It was not fun!

Well wityh the help of wd 40 and the wrong set of snap ring pliers I got her clocked, actually its still loose just gonna keep it that way till its in the car and mounted up.

Also got the old axles out, used a snipe made form my old downpipe and stock header lol.

Rx7 diff is rtv'd up and awaiting a beating from a big hammer to get those pesky ppf bushings out of the way. Hopefully the wife gets here soon so I can finish mounting it today! :)

I decided not to conform to the purchase of good snapring pliers because I couldn't find any strong enough for my rusted snapring. So i got a pair of 90* 11" neelde nose and ground the tips for a second on one side so they'd go deep in the ring holes. They were $8 and work great. All the snapring pliers i tried would bend outwards. I also clamped my turbo in a vise after soaking it in PB and used and hammer and punch to dislodge my snapring because it was rusted ass hell. You need some good snapring pliers for a turbo rebuild but when it comes to removing the compressor housing or clocking it, these rule all cause they'll never bend.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...ore_1923_84721

No doubt- figure that the three primaries are pretty much supporting the weight of the turbo, downpipe etc. and then the fabricator/designer goes in and cuts the top out of one of the primaries (supports). Not smart IMO. I noticed that SSA is now putting the WG port at the collector the way it should be.

Well I got close to getting it mounted, one ppf bolt wouldn't go in for some reason (the one that gets thicker half way down the bolt, doesn't look like its gonna fit..) So I just gotta figure that one out then toss the axles in, fill the diff up with fluid and bolt it up. Then I can finalluy get her off those pesky jackstands and back on her feet.

I think I'll even throw the old mani/dp on and fire her up (n/a of coarse as the pans not tapped yet) and maybe let her run for a minute or two..

BTW whats the torque specs on the axles? Round 200ft/lbs?

Then its pan tappin time.

ppf at the diff? You can stick a big screw driver up at the top (from the outside) and with a prying action, move the ppf around so the thread/hole will line up with the bolt- just did it Friday.

Turned out the bushing was squashed in the inside so I dremeled it out and she fit fine.

The car now has a drivetrain(short of an driveshaft which I'm gonna do right now).

I installed everything by myself in the snow in my driveway btw. So I'm quite proud of myself today lol, axles slide into the diff nicely and into the hubs nicely, I need to go get the bigger axles nuts though lol, forgot about those.

Turbo manifold, turbo and downpipe are in (just loose fit), the downpipe is not a good fit at all. It is touching almost everything in its path and theres no way it will last with its placement and the welds on that pos. But I figure I'll get it running and take it to a shop to have them reweld/modify the dp so it'll work.

So I guess I'm gonna run my water lines and teflon tape my oil feed, install my driveshaft, and maybe figure out some mounts for my i/c and rad.

Oh and the ps lines and rad hose are in the way of the comp outlet but I'll just move em around abit to make it work.

Yeah, most people that maintain PS have to relocate the resevoir and extend one or both of the hoses when ICing.