Pitlab77

iTrader: (3)

that ETD manifold has a horrible placement for the wastegate. Keep what you have.

TheBandit

iTrader: (8)

I dont know that I would worry about the tranny so much, as I would the differential. Usually the diff will go out before the tranny in sub 300whp levels, if you don't have a torsen. In fact that is probably one of my next projects...
-Michael-

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

So glad I have torsen, no worries in that department.

Anything new with the turbo install?

F20turbo

I broke my tranny @11psi chasing a F430 spyder....

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Atleast it was worth it.

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

yeah, but did you win?

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

and I would keep the t25 setup. worse case scenario you have it on there for a year and sell it to upgrade after maxing it out. a quality manifold and downpipe like you made should bring $400 or more. I would get the Torsen in there.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

no he didnt win he was just playin with it he had his gf in the passenger seat anyway and better stuff to do.

F20turbo

I chased him down river rd ( runs along the ohio river here in Louisville, rich part of the city ). Its a 2 lane road and has some twists to it...he couldnt get away from me. Then I went to hammer @ 4500rpm in 3rd after exiting a corner and it just ripped 3rd gear to shreds. I would expect him to pull away but he couldnt get rid of me.

zoom2zoom

iTrader: (5)

with close to 300rwhp, you would probably keep up with him pretty good til about 130 or so.

F20turbo

right, but i was only running .7bar or 10-11psi. I dynoed @ 261whp and 245ft/lb @ 12psi.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

I have an rx7 lsd (almost installed), finally getting time off and decent weather so maybe tomorrow I will b in the car.

As for the turbo, I'm trying to find a decent set of snap ring pliers so I can clock the center housing...Its proving to b a pita..Gonna soak that bitch tonite, hopefully it loosens' up a bit then I can continue with the turbo stuff.

Oh ya I needed a drain flange for the turbo and by chance a guy has one 300km away...Good thing my buddy is down there for the new year, and thats about all I need for the turbo hardware side.

rmcelwee

iTrader: (1)

I used a HUGE (maybe 16" long) set of needle nose pliers vs a snap ring tool when I did mine. It was not fun!

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Well wityh the help of wd 40 and the wrong set of snap ring pliers I got her clocked, actually its still loose just gonna keep it that way till its in the car and mounted up.

Also got the old axles out, used a snipe made form my old downpipe and stock header lol.

Rx7 diff is rtv'd up and awaiting a beating from a big hammer to get those pesky ppf bushings out of the way. Hopefully the wife gets here soon so I can finish mounting it today!

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

I decided not to conform to the purchase of good snapring pliers because I couldn't find any strong enough for my rusted snapring. So i got a pair of 90* 11" neelde nose and ground the tips for a second on one side so they'd go deep in the ring holes. They were $8 and work great. All the snapring pliers i tried would bend outwards. I also clamped my turbo in a vise after soaking it in PB and used and hammer and punch to dislodge my snapring because it was rusted *** hell. You need some good snapring pliers for a turbo rebuild but when it comes to removing the compressor housing or clocking it, these rule all cause they'll never bend.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

No doubt- figure that the three primaries are pretty much supporting the weight of the turbo, downpipe etc. and then the fabricator/designer goes in and cuts the top out of one of the primaries (supports). Not smart IMO. I noticed that SSA is now putting the WG port at the collector the way it should be.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Well I got close to getting it mounted, one ppf bolt wouldn't go in for some reason (the one that gets thicker half way down the bolt, doesn't look like its gonna fit..) So I just gotta figure that one out then toss the axles in, fill the diff up with fluid and bolt it up. Then I can finalluy get her off those pesky jackstands and back on her feet.

I think I'll even throw the old mani/dp on and fire her up (n/a of coarse as the pans not tapped yet) and maybe let her run for a minute or two..

BTW whats the torque specs on the axles? Round 200ft/lbs?

Then its pan tappin time.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

ppf at the diff? You can stick a big screw driver up at the top (from the outside) and with a prying action, move the ppf around so the thread/hole will line up with the bolt- just did it Friday.

dc2696

iTrader: (2)

Turned out the bushing was squashed in the inside so I dremeled it out and she fit fine.

The car now has a drivetrain(short of an driveshaft which I'm gonna do right now).

I installed everything by myself in the snow in my driveway btw. So I'm quite proud of myself today lol, axles slide into the diff nicely and into the hubs nicely, I need to go get the bigger axles nuts though lol, forgot about those.

Turbo manifold, turbo and downpipe are in (just loose fit), the downpipe is not a good fit at all. It is touching almost everything in its path and theres no way it will last with its placement and the welds on that pos. But I figure I'll get it running and take it to a shop to have them reweld/modify the dp so it'll work.

So I guess I'm gonna run my water lines and teflon tape my oil feed, install my driveshaft, and maybe figure out some mounts for my i/c and rad.

Oh and the ps lines and rad hose are in the way of the comp outlet but I'll just move em around abit to make it work.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, most people that maintain PS have to relocate the resevoir and extend one or both of the hoses when ICing.