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Old 01-06-2012, 09:24 PM   #1
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Well, I finally got tired of my M45. Rather, tired of the constant stalling at lights and the idle droop-to-stall and the idle fluxuating all the time. It put down 179whp so more than that is my goal.

I tried the throttle body in the OEM location for a spin around the block and it was too loud and annoying.

So, I picked up a cast manifold and down pipe (looks to be either old FM or BEGI) and was given a GT2554R for freeee. It is in good shape with barely a tic of play and the blades look new. It came off a Noble M12 so it should be faster than a normal GT25R (LOLOLOL).

Right now, I am in the process of removing the SC and deciding if I want to keep the TDR IC or not. I was offered $500(shipped no less) for it and I am kinda thinking Ill keep it for that.

Fueling is done by a EMU and a 190lph walboro.
I have a LC1 to install
Stock midpipe for now until I save up for a 3"
Im thinking of making some hardlines for the oil and coolant
BOV undecided, but need a recirc, maybe the turbosmart, just pricey
boost control, well not sure on that either, i need a wg actuator, so I was thinking about a TS adjustable one, set and forget kind of thing.
also am getting a BBK TB from a friend i think.

Goals are MPG increase via NOT driving the sc and adding volumetric efficency....
power to play around/maybe to do a track day or DE, not competative, im not a johnny racer
reliability.
this thing was bought as a commuter, i do 35 miles a day and that could jump this spring depending on my schedule.

issues right now, Locating a freaking belt tensioner for a PS/AC car locally... noone I know has one sitting around.

manifold, was damaged in shipping. small crack into one of the studs where the turbo sits and said stud is galled out. it is already 10mm it seems, so I will either have to drill/tap, thread insert and use a new stud, or carefully reweld, redrill and tap. it was already repaired here it looks like, but did not crack near the repair edges, and there is obvious signs that the thing was dropped/flew around in the box and the stud was sticking out the bottom. waiting on the seller to hear back on a claim as of yet.

DP, need to weld a WBO2 bung to it.

ECM, need to add a 3bar map and the LC1, then "autotune" it. i think at 5psi i can get away with stock injectors, but I will keep an eye out for some that will work. i need to pass obd2 and dont want to mess with a parallel install plus im on a budget and dont want to drop a bunch of cash on a MS.

Other, speaking of insp, need to figure out why it is showing EGR not ready, cat moniter not ready and emissions heater not ready. so I cleaned the egr, which was clean, and next im going to replace or swap the rear 02 sensor, i read that the car (03-05?) is sensative to the universal ones that crimp connect, which it has.


now, questions, I need a 3bolt adapter for the turbo compressor out. are they measured in OD? (for silicone connectors)
can I diy a fmic for much less than 500ish?
is it ok for a BOV pre IC?
anything else???

I will have to plan out modding stuff as I don't have my welder hooked up.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:21 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by fwMiata View Post

ECM, need to add a 3bar map and the LC1, then "autotune" it. i think at 5psi i can get away with stock injectors, but I will keep an eye out for some that will work. i need to pass obd2 and dont want to mess with a parallel install plus im on a budget and dont want to drop a bunch of cash on a MS. (passing obd2 is hard as hell. idk of a way to do it but megasquirt is cheap as hell.)

Other, speaking of insp, need to figure out why it is showing EGR not ready, cat moniter not ready and emissions heater not ready. so I cleaned the egr, which was clean, and next im going to replace or swap the rear 02 sensor, i read that the car (03-05?) is sensative to the universal ones that crimp connect, which it has.


now, questions, I need a 3bolt adapter for the turbo compressor out. are they measured in OD? (for silicone connectors)
can I diy a fmic for much less than 500ish? (intercooler and piping off ebay is like 200 bucks. cut it up and weld it and u have the tools)
is it ok for a BOV pre IC? (yes)
anything else???

I will have to plan out modding stuff as I don't have my welder hooked up.
good luck with sale
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:06 PM   #3
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yeah, MS is appealing.

my wleder is a MIG and is not hooked up, i have to really really plan out ahead to do stuff and cant really leave stuff half done for the day.

im working on getting a hanger space to work out of, so we'll see.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:32 PM   #4
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Dear lord yes on the intercooler. I picked up my pipes and ic used in the fs section for 125. Would be around 175 new on eBay. The rdr ics are very nice, but top of the line parts doesn't sound like what your going for here.

For the bov, you technically could but you don't want to unless you have too.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Golferluke View Post
Dear lord yes on the intercooler. I picked up my pipes and ic used in the fs section for 125. Would be around 175 new on eBay. The rdr ics are very nice, but top of the line parts doesn't sound like what your going for here.

For the bov, you technically could but you don't want to unless you have too.
well, FM mani, gt2554r, turbosmart bov, kinda top of the line, or at least middle of the line to me... Never said I was going to hack it... just cheaperish with good stuff. IE not dropping 5k on a fm2 kit.

Last edited by fwMiata; 01-08-2012 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #6
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If you already have a TDR IC setup, you might as well reuse it. Nobody here will pay even close to what it costs. In fact, many of us have put together similar over the radiator setups using ebay parts for 1/3 of the price.

Your EMU should serve you well. I ran upwards of 13psi on my old EMB setup with a 2554R. Bigger injectors and a FPR will let you run as much boost as you want. Search out some used 305s. I had the LC-1 and GM 3bar wired in. I didn't use the autotune method that olderguy on here came up with, rather just datalogged and adjusted the tables accordingly. It worked fairly well. Can't help you with the OBDII test, though.
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Old 01-09-2012, 02:53 AM   #7
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Alamo usually stocks those compressor outlets, if not then try Majestic Turbo in Irving. I have a spare EGR valve but it sounds like electronics on your car. Skip the hard-lines and get SS for reliability, Bat Inc is cheap and high quality.
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Old 01-09-2012, 11:24 PM   #8
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Blah... ordered a bunch of AN fittings and tube to make some hardlines for the feed/return and water lines... should be pretty bombproof.

Trying to decide if I want to order another FM filter relocation kit, it made life soo freaking easy on the last car for them to tap for oil feed to turbo.

Or run off the sending unit. spot.

also trying to decide on how to route the intake. it seems that they dont make a 2.25 to 2.75 90* WITH the 1" nipple for the BOV return.

i guess i can hob together some sort of mess of reducers and elbows...
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:01 AM   #9
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ordered more stuff, oil drain flange, feed restricter, water port fittings.

need to figure out the silicone couplers I need, waiting to hear back on what the plan is with the manifold, so in a holding pattern as parts should arrive soon...
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