Yes. BKR7E-11. I was in a rush and had to use autolite 3922s but no problems. Definitely get a $20 fuel pressure gauge and you should really consider a used adjustable FMU. Its really easy to adjust your base pressure and max boost pressure. Huge advantage over the vortech, which you can ebay.

 

i have a standard adjustable fpr with a guage right now. it also reads boost, but its only a 1:1 ratio :(

 

my problems with the megan have been with the bottom down pipe bolt... its retarded.

oh and it didnt fit so I had the bottom part cut apart and fixed. had the flex moved back towards the first bend and the rest is 2.5 pipe.

new
http://jazz.sdsc.edu/photo/showimg.p...d/DSCN2435.JPG

old
http://jazz.sdsc.edu/photo/showimg.p...d/100_0364.JPG

 

cuting and welding is not a problem. i know it will have some fitment problems, you cant expect one jig to work on a million different cars

 

also i have been looking at the FAQ again. the whole injector thing and AFM thing is confusing me. so we can actually run bigger injectors on the stock ecu by just adjusting the AFM at idle? so if i were to run bigger injectors, just run a smaller fmu disk? i plan on running whatever the 14b is stock, i think its like 8psi?

 

The stock AFM has been shown to idle up to about 330's with no adjustment. It'll run a tad rich, but nothing to really worry about. The idle-mixture screw is just to get it to idle a little leaner... but it will idle just fine.

Plug the numbers into the equations in the FAQ. You've gotta know how much pressure your fuel pump can supply. Test it, or ask what others are getting out of the 255. Then plug your numbers into the equation. You're gonna find that the limiting factor in your current setup is the stock injectors. Invest in larger injectors... 305/310/330 are cheap and allow you to run less fuel pressure or a less aggressive disc, or both. 8psi is fairly low boost. There's lots of things to tweak, but with the Vortech and it's limited adjustability, you've gotta do the math to see where you stand. Or just trial and error with a WideBand to get a respectable A/F.

 

well actually I would expect one jig to fit a million different cars. racing beat headers dont seem to have this problem.

my motor sits in the stock location, and the downpipe hit the tranny, and didnt reach the stock location of the stock header, also the 4th downpipe bolt point is basicly impossible to get a bolt through, and wrench on, or turn a nut on a stud. its ****. when I have a little more cash Im going to get the part where it attaches to the turbo massaged to work.
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oh stock 1.6 afm seems to idle my 330's fine. no adjustments.

 

so just grab some 330s and put them in? and does adjusting the afm afect the whole rpm or just idle? i have a aem wideband, so thats not a problem either, just have to pull it out of the other car

 

It only affects the idle, and it will idle just fine with the 330's. It will be rich and you'll smell a little gas, especially on a cold-start, but do the math. For 8psi, 330's are overkill. You'll do fine with the 265cc 1.8 Miata injectors. When you go MS, you'll want to upgrade to 440's or bigger, so going 330's now is just something else to adjust. You won't need to adjust anything if you throw in the 1.8's.

 

I went with 330's because my first goal was 7psi, but that got bumped to 10psi and my ultimate goal bumped from 10psi to 14psi...

 

your 1-1 fpr isnt going to help you much man you need a real fpr those ebay types wich i assume you have are good mostly for NA cars in wich you set the static presusre how you like the best bet is in a add on fpr with gain adjusted on the fly or by swaping the diaphrams.