Ahhhh the infamous zipties....lol Well I'm not too good at predicting what I'm can or cannot do until its in my hands...nor do I have the experience to know...But from what I read, and seemed like a good route to try, most people install the sensor, then run the wires up through the turret into the interior and install the controller there, or in the glove or whatnot....Is this not feasable?

Appreciate the input guys, this is shaping up to be a pretty damn good discussion on a few different aspects...And I see the views are building up!

And +1 to Sam's question...I just followed the herd, but I thought I read that either closer to the turbo has too much heat, and I think I read that the fact that Begi has the divorced wg tube, it needs to be after the "reintroduction" to give a good reading??? I may be wayyyyyyy off, read so much its hard to keep track of things...thats why I finally said screw it, ordered and started learning ALOT better as things have arrived!
CLOCKING was a something I read and read about, but didnt understand WHY it was so curcial till i GOT it and tried putting in the car...Not to mention how easy it IS vs how hrad it SOUNDS>.....

"Oh I see, says the blind man to his deaf wife while the crippled kids jumped for joy":gay:

It's at the 2 o'clock mark, good enough for me. As long as it's in the upper area between 8-4 you're fine.

Before MY flexpipe and it would be hard to route, since there is little room between the DP and tranny, and it's getting closer to the turbine. Would also require the LC-1 to be mounted somewhere on the PPF again, as the reach of the sensor is only like 18".

The location just before the Cat is best: It's far enough away from the turbo, it's before the cat, its easy to access in the future and routing under the shiftboot is close enough the controller can be inside the cabin.

Wait a minute, now theres confusion. tvalenziano mentioned that after calling Begi and asking about the sensor bungs in the DP they told him that it comes with two, one is vertical and also comes with plugs if you dont want to use it. Now let me get this straight, tvalenziano, when you called them they asked you where to put the bungs?

Sounds confusing because i would think everyone would use once location.

Also Braineack theres something wrong with the picture you posted compared to the pictures tvalenziano posted from begi. Look at your picture the length of pipe after the flex part is much longer, why?

cause I have a different DP...not all are equal...it's trival.

most people still utilize the OEM o2 sensor, so they have (2) bungs, one close to the turbo for the NB, and one near the cat for the WB.

The whole things a lil confusing, but seems like the NB o2 bung is there pretty much in stock location and they know where it is/where to put it...I guess the wb02 bung is more of an option, and therefore they ask for location....

Tell me if everyone is cool with me sending back the 2nd picture(that I posted), asking them to make it more vertical?? Or should i ask for "12oclock" position?? I just dont want to end up with fitment issues....

there should be a ton of room to fit a wb sensor in completely vertical, or as close to completely vertical as possible. The (3) wb bungs I've welded onto downpipes, I installed vertical. No fitment issues.

You want it before the cat, but forward of the cat. That's why I liked the position pre flex pipe on the pics you posted. The cat itself gets hot as balls, and can overheat the sensor. Scott's dp seems to be different, with the flex section well ahead of where yours is. But you can see in his pic how much room there is to fit a sensor in.

Tell them you want the bung 6" forward of the cat flange, between 12:00 vertical and 11:00 if facing from the front side (tilted slightly towards the tranny).

Thanks Ben, I dont plan on running a cat..gonna be a straight 3" exhaust, to maybe a free flow magnaflow muffler....

So I'd assume I dont have to worry much about how close it is...

But thanks for the confirmation of fitment...didnt want to end up not being able to fit it in...

If it ends up being in front of the flex section, instead of behind, that's fine. 6" forward from the cat, facing between 12:00 vertical and 11:00 towards inward. Will leave plenty of room to set the sensor and a heat shield if needed.

<edit> you posted a reply faster than I was able to mark Scott's picture. You never know when/if you'll need to install a cat in the future (like if you need to make the car legal when you sell it or whatever...) so go ahead and have the sensor put in assuming there is a cat. Plus you want the sensor away from the turbo heat for longevity, but you don't want it so far back there is a noticable delay between engine activity and sensor reaction.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...1&d=1184253612

Perrrrfect explanation/pic...thank you.
I literally copied and pasted this pic to Stephanie...
If I understand form the pic, they def will....

i'm not gonna hijack this thread with posts like Saml01 (just kidding:bigtu:) but would it be possible to put the bung after the dp on a turndown for example?

Maz/nis huh? Sounds like me...I got a pretty sweet Z & my friends are al asking me y I'd bother w- the miata...lol...I'll show them in a couple weeks...

Anyway, welcome aboard, ask away...I'm sure someone will get u the
answer(s) u need!

Parts update...
 

Ok guys, as promised "the box" arrived...Which means all the goodies are here... I'm at work so I cannot go through it, but all looks good for now...
Also wb02 sensor will be here today (per fedex tracking #)....
I can hardly wait!!!!

And yes once I get home I'll post pics of it all so all the newbys have a cheat sheet...Also I'll update the #1 post where all the parts are listed and be more detailed, also update "status"...My idea is to eventually get that 1st post to be a complete list of whats needed for my DYI turbo route, and prob many others...the real variations being where u source them....I really think at this point, the "gathering info/choosing parts/sourcing parts" parts of the build is prob harder than making it all work nicely...It's at least the most time consuming!

***lets not leave our new poster mazda/nissan hanging guru's...
Here's my input: If I understand the question correctly, ur askign if the wbo2/bung can be installed further down the exhaust system rather than on the DP?? From what Ben/others have said you dont want it to be too far away from the engine because then its not a "real time" and "real engine reading"...Basically if its too far down, u'll see delayed info on whats happening, which can be real bad...Also, I'm thinking mounting/routing of the controller would be an issue as ideal location is inside the cockpit

:bowdown:

Btw, if you have aim do you mind giving me like 20 min of your time I just want to bounce some thoughts of you.

***pics
 

So finally got around to taking some pics...I have to test fit pretty much everythign except the pipes/couplers as I cant tell by eye wheather thigns like fittings are the right size...Will keep you guys posted..I will say that everything looks like real good quality stuff...fittings look bulletproof, same with the ss lines and ic piping/clamps/couplers....If it all fits, I'll be thrilled!


*Sam u have a pm, be more than happy to brainstorm with ya..

pics contd
 

...

:eek: Where did you get the flexi tube for the coolant line re route, as well as the other stuff ?

Few mroe parts I forgot about...
 

More part pics...with all the excitement of the big box, I forgot about the lil goodies!

***Sam, check out Brain's "Blew my motor here's what I'm doing" thread...He was nice enough to take a few shots of it, even the label w/ the part #...
It seems to be a pretty standard item and size (1.25" x 20")...He said he got the idea from FM as they use it on their kits...he got his from Napa, I got mine from Autozone...Mine is a lil stiff cause it has a spring inside, dunno if that will be a problem, or if all are liek that..u'll know when i do!

******edit*****
Before i forget...Got a chance to go through the big box...Everythign was there except for 1 fitting, and 2 bolts. Also we forgot about 1 coupler, and I think either I was sent the wrong WG bracket, or I'm a dumbass and cant figure it out...I test fitted everything on the turbo, and on the lines, just not on the actual car...Pretty sweet considering it was eevrythign I needed on my doorstep in less than 3days....By the time I'm ready for it, I'm sure the "other" parts will arrive...and everything again is super high quality...At this point I'm realllly happy. Again once everythign in THIS order is on the car and I know its good 2 go I will put a post specifically for the dealer...

Install Progress!!! W/ Pics
 

Well finally found some time to do somethign to the car...And will hopefully have some more tomm.

I/C is installed. I "fabbed" up the brackets (aka cut, bent, and drilled holes...but hey fab is fab!). Took a lil bit to get them just right, but looks sweet, and solid. I think the hardest part was trying to get the height right. I think I finally have it, but I can always bring it up some if needed.

The I/C is sitting at right about 6" from the hood latch mounting bolts...I put the black plastic shroud (not undertray) thats in the mouth of the fascia on to get a good idea of where the opening was for the mouth, and went from there. Can't fit the intire IC in the mouth since mine is 12" tall...but I got a good amoutn in there...I started to trim the shroud, but held off since I'll also need to trim for the pipes...The bottom of my I/C is about 1" below the mouth shroud, so I have to trim off the bottom/back of it...

Super simple, measure 2x's cut once and it's an easy straight forward process...
1-Cut 1 bracket and drilled 2 holes to secure it to the top of the I/C
2-Measured then cut 2 hanger brackets, and bent 90*. (each hanger is about 6.5" long...5" to the bend, and 1.5" after)
3-Drilled 1 hole on each end of the hanger
4-Drilled matching holes in the 1st bracket to secure the hangers (I used some perrrrfect thick spacer/nuts to that came with my I/C...u can see in pics, they came w/ my IC..but I'm sure u can find somewhere & cheap)
5-Bolted the hangers/hood latch into place..., then placed the I/C and mounted the hangers to the bracket...
6-Its a very tight fit, and I BARELY had to bend the a/c lines where the canister is..(less than .50"). Everything is VERY snug and leveled without the pipes so i stopped looking for a way to secure the bottom...If/when I change my mind i'll post it up...If I find an easy/not interference way to throw some straps on there I will, but for now all is good!**It sits ALMOST perfectly centered...its unnoticeable, and again, with hardly any bending of the a/c lines...This was an 18x12x3 I/C...

tools---hacksaw, drill/bit, bench vice to bend, 10mm socket(hood latch bolts) + 13mm box end(I/C bolts)

Watcha guys think???

That looks pretty mint to me. Sorry I havent gotten around to emailing you, been kinda busy this weekend and it looks like so have you.

edit: get rid of the tow hooks while you are at it, you cant use them for towing anyway.

Core, or overall dimensions? If core, please post overall. Just curious. Thx

Overall dimensions.....crxracing.com, but u can buy fron one of their ebay auctions & save 10bucks...I paid like $90 shipped...

Progress Update
 

Ok, finally got a chance to escape from the in-laws and do SOME work...

I did the lower radiator hose re-route with the flex hose...It seems fine..I may need to re-adjust because it's still very tight for pipes with the PS...I also cut about an inch off the PS line and pushed it as far onto the nipple as possible to make some more room. I know everyone has complained about it, and successfully done it, but at this point I'm scratching my head with the piping...I mocked it up a few diff ways (no cutting yet) and wasnt getting any to really work...I'm gonna have to redo the flex hose to make some room...the hardest part I see is ACTUALLY making the 45* or 90* out of the comp outlet...the coupler hits the hose...

Also did the oil feed...straight forward...unbolt, insert the oil feed fitting in its place..My line had a 90* fitting on each end...So far I'm routing it up from the feed location (facing the front of the car), under the turbo and around to the top..Staying away from manifold...

I'm still awaiting my downpipe from Begi:td:, should hopefully be here in the next couple days...Once that comes in, I'll be able to really start moving some on this...Unfortunately right now I'm held up...Dont want to really install everything till its here so i can have exact placement...

Also I have a "teckie" researching the MS to see how much he wants to assemble...Should be getting back to me today/tomm..

I'm at work now, some pics will be on tonight...
Looks like we hit a lil slow point, but stay with me guys, we'll be rockign soon!

I can do the MS for you....


on my PS line, I was able to flip the line so it comes up and back forward to the resivoir. not under and back, which was in the way of my pipes. The line that screws in stayed in the stock location for me.

Umm u'd actually volunteer..? I wouldnt mind "donating" a lil somethign something...

Also I was thinking about workign something on the PS hose...If i can somehow get the radiator hose lower, or bring it foward and out of the way It should work...I even notched the shelf to clock the turbo straight down...Still too tight..I know I'll figure it out with trial and error, just dont want to waste pipes for the trial and error...

Brain, question about the DIY fuel rail...
I called the local advanced auto, and they have pretty much everything...
Couple things I'm unsure of..

1-1/8" NPT tap: I have a tap/die set at home, but doesnt specify "npt"...also the one advanced is selling doesn't specify either..they "are sure" it's all the same...but I've learned that when they "are sure", dont listen...Can u shed some light?

2-5/16" tee: They dont have this in brass, only plastic...Will that be fine, or def get brass?

3-1/8-5/16 brass fitting: Dumb I know but this is 1/8" thread to a 5/16" BARB correct?

Other than that they have the rest..just to double check...
21/64 drill bit (already own)
5/16" hose clamps (already have some)
2' of 5/16" fuel inj line (they carry)
j/b weld (already own)
grease (already own)

Instructions seem pretty straight forward in your writeup...basically drill the "back" of the rail, tap it, screw in/jb weld the fitting fitting ,and tee off/reconnect the lines...Anything else? Curing time is 24hrs right? Basically use the JB like thread lock, only MORE? Have you heard of ANYONE having issues with leaks?

Gonna try and do this tonight...While I'm waiting for the DP and whatnot i can do this, then the i/c piping and at least have that SIDE done...I know it's the easier part of the build, but at this point having some of the "to-do" list completed will feel like I'm getting SOMEwhere!

well i wouldn't do it for free :gay:

yeah, drill the back of the rail, tap it, screw in fitting. split the feed, the end.


tap: probably npt (what I like to do is drill into wood or spare metal and test both tap and drill bit to see if they work together, then screw in teh fitting to make sure the tap is correct.

brass tee: if you cant find it (try pepboys and advanced), if not go to ACE or Lowes and build one...get a Tee with three female 1/8" threads and get (3) 1/8" to 5/16" fittings.

fittings: yep barb or slip-on or whatever

Progress PICS
 

Ok well here u go guys...pics of the oil feed fitting from the block, a not so good one of the lower radiator flex hose, and an idea of the routing for the oil feed line...Of course the oil feed line will not be left like that...

***I WAS able to get al the parts for the DIY fuel rail at Advanced Auto parts (for those of you that like 1 stop shoppign like me!)...Unfortunately the in-laws stoel me away as soon as i got back from the store tho...

As for the piping, I was lookign tryign to figure it out...Its not really the lower rad hose..I can prob squeeeeze by that, there's a hose right under it, closer to firewall..it actually looks like a hardline, with a section of hose in the middle...Anyway my issue is not the actual 90* bend, its being able to come DOWN out of the comp outlet enough to MAKE any kind of bend..
I measure 2.5"-2.75" MAX between that line and the bead around the comp outlet adapter....Not enough room for 90* pipe or coupler and YES I did think of trimming both but thee's no way...My only chance is to see WHAT it is(hopefully Haynes can identify it), and to figure out a way to move it further forward (towards the radiator) to allow me the 4" I need to make the turn....After that I'm ok with another 8"+45* drop to be level with the IC inlet...then a simple 90* into the IC.....Haveb't done much w/ the outlet side of the IC...but looks like a simple 90* from TB, then around and into the IC outlet...Looks tight with the fans, but should be ok...

Also the 2nd to last pic is just a routing idea I had if all else fails...clockign the turbo the exact opposite way and makign the turn THEN going down...I dont liek it because it's more piping, AND will make it VERY hard when its time to put an airfilter/inlet pipe in there....

***LAST pic is marked (poorly) to better show the routing issue

Hmm. I guess this is why the Begi kit performs a coolant bypass. Is it the line you are referring too or another line that they eliminate?

I'm confused. You're showing pictures of power steering lines, as well as the coolant hardline under the manifold. Circle what you need to move, and we'll tell you what it is.

That hardline needs to be bent, by the way. Take it out (pull it out of the fitting, it's just an o-ring), throw it in a vise, and carefully bend it from 90 to 45 degrees.

Also, replace your heater hoses. I can tell from just looking at them that they need to be done.

you need to copy how I do it, its a 90* off the turbo and and 90* bend, thats it....

you can see how I pulled the PS line out of the way, just swivel it up out of the way and route the pipe underneath.

cut the bracket that the radiator hose used to bolt to.

and then slip pipe up through from underneath. May need to pull the front PS line out of the way.

go back and study my pics.

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...chargepipe.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...ssemble023.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...ssemble019.jpg

guys both real good points, and brain thanks again for great pics!
I dont think the PS will be an issue as I already have it turned upwards (just took the pic before doing so).

From what u guys have explained I'm pretty convinced that it is the coolant hardline..FM mentions bending it slightly, but I thought they were referring to the line that becomes a heater hose, and I couldnt figure out what the issue was so I never bent it...now it makes sense! Just in case I've attached a pic w/ the problem line circled as requested...

Dont see hwat u mean about the heater hoses, they look pretty good, please clarify...maybe the pics make them seem worse...

*So I'm hoping to finally get to cross some stuff off the list this weekend...I have a short "to-do" list, then pickup my sis-in-law who is flying in, and hopefully all the in-laws can play nice and I can get caught up...My wife's family is german, u'd think I'd be able to get them all working in there and put that "german engineering" to work! :gay:

Anyway, even if i dont get to do all this since I'll basically only have a solid day, here's what I hope to get accomplished...(not in exact order of course)
-Turbo side IC piping
-TB side IC piping
-DIY dual feed
-oil pressure gauge/sender swap
-send out injectors (witchhunter)
-any other tidbits I can

**Couple questions that came up...
1-The oil drain fittign I have for the oil pan seems HUGE. Its about an inch, maybe a lil (not much) less in diameter. Is this tooo big? It obviously fits my lines/oil drain flange, but I was just thinkign where da hell am i gonna get a tap that big! I havent looked for one yet, just igured I'd ask...I have posted a pic in the previous page or 2 when I posted pics of what i got in my "big order" (45* fitting).

2-I've been waiting for that damn dp to get here...now it wont be here till mid next week..:td: ANyway, I havent wanted to really get to work on plumbing the turbo/lines, and really installign the manifold because I'm afraid i'd have to remove/loosen everythign in order to align the DP during installation or whatnot....Is this true??? Or can I finish the manifold, egr fitting, turbo, lines, clocking, etc etc and DEF (150% sure) not have to undo thigns to get the DP in?? It'd be nice to get that stuff outta the way....ONLY if I dont have to redo shiznit once the dp arrives...

Thanks guys!

Progress Update---w/ Pics!!!!
 

Wooohooo, turbo side IC piping 99% complete...Need to cut 1 more pipe but I ran outta energy...TIP****USE A POWER SAW WITH THE PROPER BLADE..this will save you time cutting, and time sanding down rough edges..I thought a hacksaw would "get er dun", but nahhhh. I mean I COULD, but it took me about 20min of hacking for 1 cut, plus another 10min of sanding the edges...30per cut is BS...

So basically I bent the line I circled in the previous pic/post, but that wasnt enough...I THINK I ran into the PS line Brain was telling me about, it comes from the radiator as a thick coolant line, then bends up to the PS or AC (I forget) as a thick hard line....I carefully bent that UP, and got my pipe in UNDER it...Also I redid the coolant line higher as well....

More specifically....
-Trimmed the PS soft line a bit at the nipple and pushed it further onto the nipple to make a tighter turn (otherwise it iterfers witht he comp outlet)...And rotated it UP (you have to be in there to know what I mean) in order to make room for pipes to go UNDER
-Routed the Lower rad hose the same as stock but also higher up (about the same height as PS), also to allow pipes to go UNDER
-Unbent the hard coolant line mentioned above..it interferes with the comp outlet..(now the comp outlet sits INSIDE the 45*(used to be 90*) bend
-Bent the PS line that goes from middle of radiator(soft line & makes the 90* turn up as a hardline) to PS pump UP and made the bend SLIGHTLY tighter..again routed pipes UNDER this...

The piping is routed as follows for me...
-Comp outlet clocked to ALMOST 90*down
-90* coupler facing the front of the car (slightly towards the wheel, and had
to trim about 1.5" off the end that goes on the comp outlet)
-Staight pipe about 12"-14"
-45*coupler brings the end of the straight pipe to within a 90* angle of the
IC inlet
-90*Hard pipe connecting the IC inlet to the previous mentioned 45* coupler
***I WAY OVER ORDERED FOR THIS SIDE (only used 90*/45*coupler +
90*hard pipe and small section of straight pipe...)

Thast all the progress for today, only had like 2hours to work on it...Tomm should be interesting to see how much more I can get done...My plan of attack is 1)Homedepot, 2)IC outlet piping to TB, 3)remove fuel rail and convert to dual feed, 4)swap oil pressure gauge/sender, 5)button it up....Since no one has yet to reply to my questions in my last post:mad:-jk

Come on guys, I'm trying to make this as informative as possible and I'm really takign the time to detail/document my build for others...Between running a business 12hrs a day M-F, having a pregnant wife to tend to, and the infamous in-laws in town, cut me some slack..I knwop some of you can do this in 1 sitting probably, but I cant...hopefully my questions will get some attention, and hopefully thos 1000+views I see are newbys gaining alot of help from this...Those of you that have posted here I realllllly appreciate your input and advice! The rest of you CMON!:ugh2:

Here's ur pics!!!! (sam pay attention! I will prob have enough piping left over for 2 setups so let me know when ur ready!)
**EDIT---WHY CANT I POST PICS??? THE "MANAGE ATTACHMENTS" BUTTON IS GONE????

Maybe I should just book a jetblue flight to florida and help you out. I'm a recent college grad with a business degree, you can stay home and fiddle with the car and ill run your business ;). I know you want too.

Btw, where did you buy the couplers and pipe? home depot products?

lol...i'm game!
Wideopentuning is where i got the couplers & piping...he's a member here...good guy, but he's been MIA the last week or so, been waiting on a response from him...but i'm sure he'll get back to me soon...
FYI he has a thread in the clasifieds section...some pricing can be found there..

Big Time Progress Update!!!!---pics??
 

Someone PLEASE tell me why i cant post pics/what i have to do to post 'em?

Anyway...you'll all be happy to hear that I got ALOT done today...Only had about 6hrs, but kept getting interrupted...

1-Finished hotside piping
2-Started/Finished Coldside piping (hard than I thought)
3-Pulled fuel Rail
4-JB weld on NEW Dual feed fuel rail is curing as we speak!
Also, got around to putting the outlet on the turbo, the fitting for vaccum hose, and premantely clocking it (fine tuned angle/tightened ALL bolts).

What I'm stumped on, and upset about is that I cant for the life of me figure out how I'm supposed to get to the oil pressure sending unit to swap it:vash:
I tried from above, tried from below, even removed the wheel...The ONLY way I see is to remove the intake mani..I'm ok with that, but I cant see/get to the bolts UNDER the intake mani...Last time I was workign with a 99head/Mani, so the intake is a 2 piece setup...perrrrect for this...Any Ideas?????

I have some GREAT pics that would really help document alot of stuff...Brain, awesome pics to go in your Fual Rail writeup (if u want)...Showing the tap, hole drilled, fitting, and jb weld...along with process...
Also have great pics of BOTH sets of pipes done, as well as a stp by step on routing...Not cutting or anything, just showing 1 piece going on at a time..easy to see angle, fitment, etc...

Anyway...here's the play-by-play...
IC-piping (coldside)
1-2.5-2.0 transition coupler (straight) off of TB
2-90* hard pipe to make the turn out of the TB (had to trim off some of the
fan shroud..not too much, and integrity is as good as it was)
3-Straight coupler+ 45* hard pipe(90* cut in half) to come slightly away
from stuff(fan shroud, pulley, sway, etc), and down..
4-Straight coupler into 90*Hard pipe bringing the pipes to a 90* angle with
the IC outlet (aka facing forward)
5-straight coupler into 90* hard pipe into the IC.
*I used almost al my pipe..i think I have like 2 straight lengths and a 90* left...also used all my couplers but 1, and I'm short 4 clamps..but it's all good!

Dual feed..
1-Removed 3 bolts holding rail on
2-made some room by removing a vacuum line+pcv, and cutting a zip tie
3-unclipped harness on each injector (broke part of 2 of 'em, but not
bad..should hold fine, lucky it wasnt worse, and YES I was as careful as
I could be, the damn things were shot from the heat, 1 touch and crack)
4-removed gas cap and pulled 2 fuel lines from hard lines (I put a piece of
tape around the feed, also I had NO fuel come out..literally 2 drops..there
was a lil more in the rail/lines, but an once or 2...)
5-removed rail, then removed injectors from bores...(anyone interested in four
1.8l injectors??)
6-Put rail in vice and followed brain's writeup to the letter...NO issues so far...
***One thing I will add (and brain what u think?), i used a couple Q-tips with grease on them to collect any shavings from drilling then tappeing too...ALONG with the grease on the bit trick..Worked great...then as added insurance I blew compressed air throught the thing...

***DP should be here by Tues/Wed, in the meantime i'd really like to swap the oil pressure sender/gauge since I have the rail off...And I'm sending the injectors out tomm to Witchhunter...So my goal is by the time the DP arives, I can finish off all that stuff (all lines, mani, wb, perm install piping, air intake, etc), then get the injectors back, slap it together and all thats left should be electronics...Sounds too easy, but let's see....

So hopefully now that there's progress they'll be posts?? Kinda like "if u build it, they will post"??

I think to get to the pressure sender you gotta reach through the passenger side wheel well. I doubt you can do it from above, either way you will need to get to it to tee it off for oil. As for the gauge if you havent guessed you gotta take out the guage cluster.

The sender doesnt need to be teed off, its already the oil pressure sending unit for the gauge, just needs to be removed, and replaced with other one(screw off/on affair)..horrible location to get to tho...It must be through the bottom, or wheel well...only way from up top is to remove intake mani..like i said i wouldnt mind that, BUT need some help with location of underside intake mani bolts....

Anyone have a good link to the location of undersid emani bolts, or a goood trick for the sender from below?? The hayne's manual doesnt show the location of the bolts fo rthe mani, only top one's...the "walkthru's" for the sender swap are reallllly vague and useless...Mainly, remove old one, install new one, and then jump to the gauges...pretty lamo

**still gottta find a way to get these pics up:ugh:

look in the garage section of miata.net . There is a write up, showing how to make a little tool to help you out.

Informatin regarding membership rights and picture uploading is in the Front Desk.

thanx ben, will take a look at both today!

I understand that, but it sends pressure to the guage where are you getting oil for the turbo?

Hey fellow newby, read up on my posts...lol
Up to '95 the feed is in the "easy" location right under the turbo manifold....i even posted a sweet pic for every1 to reference...
Check out the pic of the block with the bright blue tape, and big arrow...
I think u have a 97, which means u will have to tee it off and run a long line...

OOOOOH thats right, you have an older year. My bad, for some reason I didnt think so.

Man guys I'm really upset/disappointed...I'm giving it 1 more day before I decide I got sold out for sure..but I dont see things changing in the next 24hrs...

That "big" order I placed was with Wideopentuning here on the forums..He was a super good guy, highly recommended by lots of members here. And he was GREAT while I was placing my $1100 order with him. Got the shipping upgraded and all to get it to me by Friday so I could work with the goodies over the weekend...

Anyway, he said he was sure of all the parts we ordered, and if there was any issues he'd fix them asap..So I got the order, and there were a couple things that needed ot be fixed (wrong parts). Nothing MAJOR, but def needed to be fixed and cant make it work with what i got.
Been after him since I received the order (the next day I pm
d him the issues), he asked for pics, and then I never heard form him again...Been pm'ing him and emailing him, but NOTHING.
At first i said maybe this is a part time thing, or school, or something...but to not even get a response back after all this time (approx 1.5+wks), on such a big order, and especially compared to how helpful and assertive he was WHILE I ordered, I only have 1 way to go with it...

I sent him my last communication attempt today, if no response by tomm I'm gonna go to atp and try and straighten it out myself...And will tell them WHY I have to. My fear is that because he's a dealer for them, not an employee i will get the runaround...but HOPEFULLY I can muscle my way thru if I have to...just wish i wouldnt have to deal with any of this...
**Anyone have his number?? Maybe PM so its not pulicized? I called him to PLACE the order, but cant find the #...

While we're talking about bad service, just tracked the DP and it'll finally be here tomm...pending any natural disasters...(1+week late)

Also still waiting for my BOV/ext WG (not using it anymore but have a buyer lined up) from the guy who I think may also be playing me...(2+weeks late)

3 bummers man...I was really hoping to have all these things settled by now...:sadwavey:

Damn dude, that sucks. Im sure he will make everything right, I doubt he wants to fuck you over and lose so much business potential.

Kelly is always in and out. He'll make good.

Yea, my last email got his attention...still no reason to not communicate at all in a week +, but he did confirm that its a side thing...Anyway we've been playing a lil phone tag, but should be able to ge tthe wheels turning tonight...

Witchhunter is SUPER fast man...I overnighted my injectors to them (I get a big discount from work on NORMAL sized stuff), and the next day they were done. They will be shipping to me today, and I should have by Fri. And check it out, they said that they were in good shape, BUT 2 of them were stuck closed!!! Would have been impossible for me to have caught that till it was too late...Good call guys!

And I realllllllllly need some help...I got the DP yesterday (finally) from Begi. I hope I'm a complete idiot, but I cant get it to sit flush against the turbo:eek:
Seems like that seperator for the WG dump is too long or something...AND it totally interferes with the WG openining!!!!! I'm at a loss. I wrote to Stephanie last night, but I'm calling today...it just CANT be.....I refuse to believe that somone with the kind of rep that Begi has would lead to this kind of experience...

Still nothing on the BOV I've been waiting for all this time..it was the FIRST thing I ordered for my project!:td:

So grab some sheers or a dremel and cut down whatever is in the way.

Where are the pictures of the down pipe anyway? I want to see where you put the WBo2 bung.

No way man...this thing cost me over $400, besides I didnt mentionit, but even if that wasn't in the way the WG still couldnt open much at all because of the size of the opening for the WG dump pipe...:confused:

As for pics...not allowed to post any...:td:, sux right in the middle of my thread..I hope it gets fixed soon! I have like 20pics from the last progress update that are reallllllllllll good, and I'm sure super helpful...Not to mention the pics that will be coming...

you can become a supporting member and upload pics, or you can upload them to a hosting site and link them. i use imageshack.us all the time for pics.

Gonna try it out...whats a supporting member? $$$? If so how much?

Well...Just talked to Corky himself...Convo did not go the way i hoped, with the issue being simple and resolved...
Basically he came to the conclusion that I have a "odd-ball" gt2560...and that the DP is fine. Mine has a built-in divider in the exhaust housing seperating the WG/turb...(basically exactly what begi puts on the DP, just already in the turbo)...I checked out all the info I could before/after buying the turbo, and everything mathced up to the gt2560 thats on the Garrett site...Has anyone heard of this?? Can anyone confirm that theirs does/does not have this?? Its cast into the housing itself, not somethign someone welded...I gotta clean it up, maybe I find some hidden welds, but I doubt it...I'm gonna so some researching and pic hunting when I get home to see if mine really is the "oddball" (cant now cuz I'm at work)....
So, I'd have to ship the DP back to him (4days min), he'd find a way to make it work (2days est), and he'd ship it back to me (4days min), ALL at MY expense...not to mention the almost 2 week time it'd take...Also, IF it was fixable with the same flange (says he's pretty sure) thats on there, no cost...if not then thats on me as well...
Although I'm not happy with this result, there's not much I can say. He said if I have a weird turbo and don't know about there's no way for them to know, which I agree with. However, when I ordered i asked 3-4times if there's ANYTHING they needed to make sure everything fit, including pics of the turbo, and I was told no...Also, there's no "specific turbo's" listed on the site...But again, not much of a leg to stand on and I'm pretty much stuck with this option,(this would add at least 2weeks and bring the Mani+DP total to over 1k:eek:) OR finding a different DP, OR different turbo, OR risking having someone locally "make it work" which sounds like the riskiest.....:confused
Although not really his fault, I gotta tell you guys that while I don't doubt his knowledge/expertise for a second, the customer service really sucks. I mean not even an ounce of "wow...let's see what we could do", more like "hmmm, dont sound like my problem but if you send to me I could probably make it work, course all the expense is on you seeing as the turbo is the problem"...I mean not even an iotta of caring that a problem arised after a customer spent almost 1g with them... At least ACT like it....

Still no BOV yet....AND gonna talk to kelly in a bit...

This is really starting to wear thin on me....Costs are rising to that of a kit, and parts gathering has all but taken the wind outta my sails...:sadwavey:

I welcome anyone who could shed some light on this...

Got Kelly on the phone...cleared that up...replacement stuff has been ordered...

Still those 2 pending issues (dp + bov)

Wow that doesn't sound very pleasant. I mean being so big in the community you would expect them to be a little bit more attuned to peoples concerns. I mean naturally you would pay for everything but at least some sort of care to ease the pain of spending more money.

Exactly what I'm saying....:td:

INJECTORS ARE HERE (results posted)
 

Got the injectors back from www.witchhunter.com today.
From what i can see AWESOME!!!!
I mentioned it before, but 2 of my injectors were stuck closed (not flowing fuel at all)...Since I cant put the data sheet on here...here's the info:

Injectors 1 2 3 4
Tests: all done @ 43.5psi

Resistance 13.6 13.6 13.5 13.5
Leak Test (before) Pass Pass Pass Pass (Pass/Fail)
Leak Test (after) Pass Pass Pass Pass (Pass/Fail)
Spray pattern(before) Good Good Poor Poor (Good/Fair/Poor)
Spry pattern(after) Good Good Good Good (Good/Fair/Poor)
Static Flow (before) 112.5 115 0 0
Static Flow (after) 115 116 114.5 115
Pulsed Flow (before) 117 120 0 0
Pulsed Flow (after) 122 121 119 119.5
CC/Min @ 43.5 psi 460 464 458 460
Injector Balance Before=100% After=2.5%

If you need info on what this means, go to their site and look for Test Data Sheet, then scroll down....I read through it cuz I didnt know, and looks like I now have a set of sweeeeeet ass injectors!
Finally something goes right!!!!

***As for the DP issue, my nuts are in a vice...I'm bringing the top of the DP and turbine housing (saving as much weight as I can) to work with me. I'm gonna call him in the morning and ask him if he has any idea if it'll work with a 2860 turbine housing (looks identical to whats on my turbo), if he sounds confident off it goes....if he doesnt, then I might have to send it anyway considering I'm out of alternatives...

SOMEONE PLEASE ANSWER ME, Can I continue with installing the drain lines, coolant lines, tightening everything on the manifold, EGR fitting, etc... without having to take it off to put on the DP. I have it, but cant try to install it due to the mismatch....This way i can feel better and maybe continue the build while I wait....

Well my DP/turbo is en route to Begi..it'll be there Monday courtesy of a friend @ Fed-Ex...however shipping back as all on me.....I called up Corky, and explained to him that it looks just like the 2860 hosuing, and he told me that he's never seen a divider on a 2860:eek: I offered to go onto Garrett site to show him what I meant, and he said he knew how, and just send it. Also said he'd turn it around same day/next day depending on what time of day the pkg arrives..all i can do now is pray to the turbo gods to help me out :bowdown:

As for the rest of the build, not a ton I can do without dp/turbo..Gonna try to finally get at the oil pressure gauge/sender swap, put my new rail/injectors in, and then...? Maybe shop for a clutch...try and have everythign here next week and have a huge weekend...

Question
**We never discussed the lighter flywheel option..Obviously I'm not looking forward to an extra $450 part, but on the saem token I dont want to regret it AFTER I install the clutch...I've heard that LW flywheels are no for turbo cars since they drop the revs, which drops the boost...But also my boost should come on real quick....What do you guys think???

Piccccccsssssssssss!!!!!!!!
 

Ok I'm like losing my mind...
I decided to stop being a cheap ass and become a "supporting member so I could post pics here and continue the documentation of my build, all in 1 place, so tons of people could literally walk thru step by step and see what its liek goign at this as a newby...

Sonn as I go to upload pics, I'm told I'm at my max allowance, and have to delete my older pics in order to post new ones....:crx:

So, I had no choice but to do a crappy cardomain page to get the pics up...
here's the link...you guys have seen everything from pages 1-3...the fun starts on page 4, scroll down a lil depending on what part ur up to, and I tolld the liberty of copying and pasting the "step by step" explanations I've posted here on the build, not any part of our convos...

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2727340/1

Seriously super upset that I paid for a year subscription and still cant finish my build thread...:td:

Dude, you shoulda used photobucket to host your pics.

As for the lighter flywheel I am curious too. I hear it makes the car a bitch to drive in traffic and can also cause the car to stall very easily when getting off the gas very quickly while in neutral. That and it will require more slipping of the clutch to get the car moving and if you over do it you can overheat the flywheel and warp it.

What I also, think, I found is that there are two different light weight flywheels a really light 9lb and a lighter 11lb. I think stock is 14lb? So maybe it would be wiser to go for a lighter one but not too light.

I use imageshack for most of my pics and put the tags on either side of the link. Then the pic shows up full size with the text, and it doesn't use any b/w from this site.

<edit> the tags didn't show up. HMM [ I M G ] before the link and [ / I M G ] after the link, but without the spaces.

Sam, after trying stock, some what light, and super light flywheels, I gotta say get the lightest flywheel and clutch in there you can afford. It will be a little trickier for you the first couple times you engage the clutch, but you will get used to it immediately. I absolutely love how fast the light clutch assembly allows the engine to gain speed. It also makes shifting easier as it rev matches itself. IMO, the bigger thing you want to avoid in a daily driver is a super heavy clutch pedal, but most people with the heavy PP ACT XT say they got used to it quickly and love it. I have the HD and it's noticably heavier than stock, and I have a bad left leg, but I got used to it and a 14lb f'wheel within 20 miles.

If you need hard data, look in last month's GRM for an article about reducing rotating mass in their Mustang GT. I don't have it in front of me, but my memory says they put in a new clutch and flywheel package that was 11 lbs lighter than stock. Their result was .4 seconds faster 0-60 (from memory, feel free to double check me). that's huge!

B