Diy Build/parts List--1st Timer!!
 

Well, I held out as long as I could, but yeah here's another build thread...
FYI, I'm hoping to keep you guys posted, gain opinions/help as needed AND hopefully with enough input from you guys, pics/comments from me...we can help alot of new guys like myself...

That said...HEeeeeeeere we go!

Subject: 1995 1.8l
Goal: #1-DIY turbo kit to make reliable 220+/- whp vehicle for all around
performance/autox/track minded vehicle, not a daily driver...
#2-Try to either save money vs a kit, or spend equal, but have the
the performance/parts I want..(aka best of both worlds?)

My exp level--1st FI project ever, have succesfully completed various mods
on Miata as well as diff vehicles, have NEARLY completed an
eng swap on a Miata, generally handy, NO fab/weld exp, what
I believe to be a decent collection of tools, plenty of room to
work, but full time business owner, with a wife at home and
limited to weeknights/mostly weekend wrenching..25yr old

Parts List/Status: UPDATED**7/13/07**

Turbo-gt2560 (have)
Mani-Begi Cast Iron (have)
I/C-Crxracing (have)
Fuel Injectors-460cc/'91 Rx7 (have)
Oil pressure gauge/sender-93miata (have)
Pcv Valve-'88 323gtx (have)
Downpipe-Begi SS w/ div wg (ordered)
BOV-hks ssqv (ordered)
Boost/Vac Guage-Garrett (have)
Inlet/outlet adapters--Atpturbo (have)
I/C piping+couplers+clamps etc. (have)
Turbo Fittings (have)
Water/oil lines (have)
Air filter (awaiting mockup)
inlet pipe (have)
Vacuum lines+t fittings (awaiting mockup)
Gauge pod (undecided)
Dual Feed Fuel Rail--DIY or FM (undecided)
Eng mgmnt--MS (decided--hoping for PNP)
Heat shielding/Turbo Blanket (undecided)
Wideband02--aem uego (have)
EBC-ms mods (undecided)
Clutch (on hold till end of build)
Light Flywheel (on hold till end of build)
Exhaust--custom, 3" straight (on hold till end of build)
Lower rad flex (have)

Thats about it. This weekend I'll be installing the I/C and mocking up the mani/turbo so i can order all the items marked "awaiting mockup".
Also as the build progresses, I'll decided on the "undecided" items...depending on if neccessary, expenses, and opinions... I plan to post pics, and hopefully include writeups as i go. If there's any pics you guys would like, let me know and I will post gladly...

I promise this will be detailed, with lots of info and communcation...no waiting for days to hear from me...Really would like it to be "the 1st timer ref thread"....ONLY to be used in conjunction w/ Brain's crrrazy good faq....DO NOT REFER TO THIS INSTEAD OF THE FAQ...just use this as a guide to go along with if anything...

So I guess we'll start with what do you guys think of the parts list, and anything else I should check out while taking measurements and whatnot this weekend??

By the way, for the sake of keeping their insanity I'll not mention names, but there's a guy on this forum, and one on m.net and both have been a HUGGGGGGEEEEEE help....Without their knowledge,support, and guidance this would still be a wish instead of becoming a reality...upon completion I'll do a much more formal thanks, but didn't want to be the cause of them having5000pm'd questions from now till then...But again, a HUGGGGGE thanks, and I'm sure they will jump in as well!

If you're trying to keep the budget down, you could save a fair chunk of change by not going PNP on the Megasquirt.

That and if you're gonna be running 460cc injectors, I don't see why you wouldn't want a better fuel pump. Seems like a possible weak point in your setup. However, if the two guru dudes you've consulted with don't think you need one, I'd take their word over mine.

Go ahead and do the DIY DF fuel rail... super easy and inexpensive.

Get your 460's serviced if you haven't already

Have Corky/Corky's people install a WB bung in your downpipe, and have them put it FACING UP. I still see WB bungs on the bottom of the downpipe :confused:

Install the clutch now. You want it in and ready before the FI device.

You don't need an o2 clamp with MS

I would get the Innovate WB instead of the AEM because it's cheaper. Get it from DIY-Autotune with your MS or MSPNP. Their service is great.

You won't need to replace your fuel pump unless your original pump fails from age.

I guess that's it.

Sorry guys, power was out last night due to a bad storm...

OK, SO...
Fuel Pump should be up to the task, from what I've read its only necc. when not using MS (or other ecu), or if it fails...so for now its off the list..

Steph T. already assured me that the dp comes w/ 2 bungs..1 for oem o2, and one for wb02...also with a plug if ur only running 1...and 1 of them is facing up..

MSPNP is more of a hope as no release date is out yet, so prob wont get it =(

I'll see about gettin the clutch in before, but wouldnt mind holding off to recoop from my spending!!

I figured I didnt need the 02clamp, but was leaving it till I know...off the list now.

Will look into the Innovative Wb vs Aem...thanks

****still looking for someone local to service the injectors...but may have to send them out.....anyone know of a good place in South FL??? Or a good/fair priced place I can send them out to??

You do not need to upgrade the fuel pump as you are not sending massive amount of pressure though your system with an ECU. You do not need to upgrade it till it can not support the flow.

http://witchhunter.com/

Great service and quick turnaround.

Picsssss
 

Okay, so first here's a couple quick "before" pics I guess...let's call them the innocence...lol

Also, Stripes thanks for the withhunter site...looks like if by mon/tues I dont find somewhere local thats where I'm sending them...at $17 each that's some affordable insurance...

hell yeah witch hunter is the shit.

Day 1 Work!!!!--pics
 

Ok guys, down to some work finally...Pics are in random order, but pretty obvious anyway...

1--took the front fascia off, since I'll need to get in there to mount the I/C and whatnot....Followed the Hayne's manual to the word, no need for any improvising...
***TIP-1***--do NOT pull or "rough it up"...if it fights you at all you forgot something..STOP, reread YOU FORGOT SOMETHING...Luckily i was patient enough to realize, and actually laughed at myself...
***TIP-2***--while I had the fascia removed a CAREFULLY took a strong wire brush too the front of the *AC condenser or whatever its called*...WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!! be careful not to bend the fins as this is easy to do...I used up and down strokes:gay: and the amount of crap that came off was HUGEEEEE...when else do u get a chance to..and this probably will help..def cant hurt....

2--Removed the air intake assembly....again, no need for any improvision, 2 clamps, and a couple 12mm bolts...Kept the hose near the throttle body connected per previous reading...

3--Removed heat shield/headers and down pipe/lower exhaust....Ok is there anythign to "figure out" no, just remove all the nuts...did it take a LONG time, with alot of cursing, some busted knuckles yes!!! I DID improvise here, haven't heard of people doing it liek this, but it worked for me...maybe everyone does it, and just doesnt say it..so...
***TIP***It seemed almost impossible to get to the bolts just below the o2 sensor to remove the downpipe....So I went under, and removed the 2 bolts on the flange just before the cat....THEN removed the bolts connecting the headers to the cylinder head..and YES you have room to literally pull the entire assembly UP and OUT of the engine bay...See pics, I removed as 1 piece the headers, downpipe, and exhaust up to the cat....I was soooo happy that I didnt have to tackle those 3 nuts on the dp...whew!!!

4--***TIP*** As you know the car is a 1995, everyone knows that on a 90-93, the oil feed is right under the headers on the block...some people talk about a 94 as well...typically its generalized as early 1.8's....1995 HAS THE SAME LOCATION FOR OIL FEED LINE AS 1990-93 CARS....It's almost impossible to see with the heatshield/headers on...If you have a 95 or older, you have your oil feed...96+ looks like the other side of the block..sorrry:td:

5--Mocked up the mani+turbo....NO GO...Gonna have to readup on clocking the turbo to pointdown...You can ee in the pics it interfere's with the manifold...I thought this was more of a preferance thing for I/C piping....But for me it's a must....I've heard its pretty simple, but takign the 1st turbo I ever own apart has me biting my nails...We'll see how it goes...

Thats it for today as the wifey had a nice long "honey do" list ready for me...
But tomm should yield a few hours under the hood...Enjoy the pics...

Pics Continued
 

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Last set
 

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Clocking Help**
 

Guys did some searchign here and didn't find what I was looking for...there was a link in a thread but its been deleted??

From what i understand I just loosen the bolts on the turbine housing, rotate and retighten?? Also need to make some kind of wg bracket since it wont line up after that...BUT I have a feeling that Murphy's Law will prevail and I will prob have to clock the chra AND comp seperately...It'd be nice if I could just rotate the 2 together, but knowing my luck.....:td:

Tell me this much, the oil DRAIN is the one that has a flange/2 screw holes, and the feed is the one without?? AND if I understand the drain really needs to be 100% vertical for proper drainage??

If thats the case gimme some write up please...worried about messing up...

Clocked***
 

Ok guys, pics will be up a lil later, not too much to show...

Anyway, I clocked the turbo...thanks 4 the tons of responses on the help:nono: :cool:

Here's a quick rundown...
1-unbolt WG bracket, 2-remove clip on wg flapper & remove WG assembly...
3-unbolt turbine housing bolts (just enough), and rotate turbine housing..and retitghten.
4-(if needed to)-unbolt 4 bolts holding brackets to comp housing, CAREFULLY/SLOWLY rotate comp housing, retighten...
I didn't find much info, so I just went at it trying to be as careful as possible, and all seems fine...I tried mocking up after only rotatiing turbine, and although drain was perfectly pointed down, the comp outlet was hitting the engine bay...So I had to rotate it without disturbing the oil drain's angle

Once this was done I mocked up the turbo/mani, and was able to figure a few things out...Oil/coolant lines, used a piece of flexible tubing to measure
1-Oil feed line-need 30'' give or take
2-Oil drain--26'' give or take
3-Water in--27'' give or take
4-Water return--26'' give or take
--Gonna order these tonight or tomm along with fittings...need a quick glance to see if I need any 90/45 degree fittings...

Also I can see its gonna be tight as far as piping goes...My inlet/outlet adapters will be here this week, and then I can see how much that adds to the fitment...Gonna have to figure out an alternative for the lower radiator hose for SURE...PS line seems like a squeeze, but should be OK...

And lastly I guess I'm gonna have to use trial and error for Air filter/air filter inlet piping...it looks too tight for anything, but I know thats not true...Just wish I could remove some things to make a lil room...The PS reservoir and the cruise control make it hard...Gonna look into ditching the cruise control...dont use it at all anyway...

Pictures will be up in a couple hours...:bigtu:

2day's Pics
 

here ya go...

I see alot of views, but no posts...are u guys just following along, or just dont care abuot another build thread??

Anyway, i guess I'll keep it going to document the build, and hopefully it'll really help someone eventually:ugh2: ...

No more work today...gonna do a lil shopping for those lines/fittings, and mayyyyybe I can swing by the hardware store tomm after work and pick up some bolts, and a couple straps to mount the I/C......:cool:

Looks good, I will soon be following in your footsteps on my 97, I appreciate your effort in making a step by step walkthrough on this. Keep it up!

Looking great! You should see what I did with mine and give yourself idea.... for routing the coolant hose and intercooler pipes.

That turbo looks great....Glad I was able to find that source for you.

Thats what I'm talking about!!!! Some opinions, ideas, debates, etc...I dont want this being just a boring story of what I did...I wanna hear people throwing ideas, opinions, debating things, etc...All on topic, but this way people who read can really see all the details, diff options, and why certain things are done certain ways, etc...

Karter glad to hear this is helping...if it helps just 1 person it's worth it!:bigtu: , but hopefully there's afew more "quiet onlookers"...

Brain, what can i say man!!!?? Thank youuuuuuuuuuuuuu It's practically brand new! U da man! I bow down to you sensai!! :bowdown: (<-not worthy)
Seriously BIG thanx!

I'm gonna check out the vbgarage, unless u have some specific pics you're talking about?
My thoughts were...
-Oil feed up from source, over heater hoses (away from mani, dp, etc), and onto turbo..
-Oil drain straight down slightly arched (self expl)
-Coolant In/Out--I was just gonna basically follow the current orientation, through the PS and whatnot, and just be sure to stay away from mani and whatnot...That said, I would LOVE to get ideas/pics whatnot to see if there's a better way......Also, what do people use to keep the hoses in place?? I was thinking some twisted wire since zip ties might melt near all the heat, or maybe somethign similiar??

Thanks guys!

oh, see my "i blew my engine" thread.

Duuuude, I was subscribed...was cheering u along from the sidelines and watching the man at work! Just didnt see the last update with pics...

I wanna print those things and just make an identical set of pipes!!lol/jk
That answered alot of my ''I wonder if I could just......'' questions...(ie: comp. outlet to a 90* bend should work, at an angle maybe??... I wonder if need to mount the bottom of the IC to anything..the pipes should hold it tight I hope!)......Those two alone prob saved me a few headscratching moments:bigtu: ....And ''flex hose'' I was JUST hoping there was such thing...Perfect solution!

It's like u read my mind when u took those pics man....Your kinda like a turbo version of ''Ms Cleo''...could start charging $3.99 a min soon!:D

I see many turbo kits perform a coolant re route to alleviate that problem. I think they use a flexible rubber line to get it to the lower radiator inlet.

From my research into DIY turbo kits, everyone seems to recommend reading the BEGI installation instructions. It helps with getting through many trivial road blocks. For example, cutting a piece out of the frame to allow the compressor more clearance.

Keep up the good work man, and thanks for documenting. I am familiar with turbos, but not familiar enough with all the various parts and varieties of parts that go into making a system. Therefore I am in my research and planning phase reading every thread and asking every question I can so I know what to get when the time comes.

Im going to print this entire thread out and reference it in october when I start my DIY build on my 97 M.

you could easily roate the housing back a tiny bit and go straight down with it and the angle toward the front, just like BEGi and FM. But once you cut the mouting plate off for the coolant hardline, you get lots of room inbetween the PS and shelf. I'll take a few more shots today of how I moved my PS line to fit it. The fact that I just needed 90° coupler and 90° pipe was nice though.

I didn't see the need as my mounts up top keep it very sturdy and the pipes below don't move.

Sam, glad this may help u out...If you need particular pics or anything now's the time! As you can see I'm a rookie, but my hands ARE dirty, so if there's anything I can help you with let me know...Good luck on your adventure!

Brain, def would love some more shots...My pics are deceiving..I cant get it to point straight down without notching the shelf...and I'm not too thrilled about the idea right now...I have the FM instructions, with the template and all...looks easy...I'm gonna play with it some more once I get the lower radiator hose replaced, AND the comp outlet adapter...I have a feeling that with the comp out. adapter its gonna be too tight and may require notching the shelf to get the best setup! I'm not "scared", just if I can avoid it I'd like to...we'll see

-Slight update, been talking to WOT about the lines/fittings/etc..Cool guy, good peoples...and in case anyone has their head up their arse like me...he's a dealer for Atp Turbo, check out their site..lots of goodies, but go to WOT to order!!!...That said I should be hearing from him today, and ordering....

-Also bought the IC with me to work...gonna try to hit up Home Depot/Hardware store and get the appropriate bolts/straps...I'm gonna do exactly the way FM does it....Gonna by some extra straps in case I decide to try and secure the bottom some too...Doubt it, but if I find an easy way I will, why not right?
LOL @ me, bringing a 18x12 IC to HD just to see which bolts fit!**

If it isn't to much trouble I would like to see a better picture of exactly what you had to unbolt to rotate the compressor to point differently.

I here some people ditch MAF and go to a MAP sensor on turbo setups. What made you want to stick with MAF? How will you mount the MAF to the turbo?(always wondered what people do without kits).

Will you be assembling your own megasquirt if the PNP doesnt come out? What will you do if neither occur?

What made you decide to go for an atmospheric purging BOV and not recirculating?

Heres something I always wondered.
I see that begi offers downpipes and turbine outlets in one size, what size exhaust are they designed for?
What if you have a larger then stock exhaust, do you need a larger down pipe and outlet?
Basically, to make a complicated question simple, how do you pick/match the exhaust to the outlet/downpipe?
Can you buy one outlet/downpipe for use with the stock exhaust and then upgrade the exhaust without the latter components?
Do all turbos hang in the same place? Is resting place standardized so any exhaust can be bolted to it?

Would be nice if you could Bold these and answer one by one. No rush, I have till october.

I believe the bolts for the IC are m10 x 1.25 or something...could be wrong...it's easier your way.

WILL DO THIS FOR YOU TONIGHT

HAVEN'T FIGURED THAT PART OF THE BUILD OUT YET, I THINK THAT W/ MS YOU KINDA HAVE TO DITCH THE MAF for MAP...STAY TUNED WE'LL FIND OUT TOGETHER..LOL

I'M AGAIN FIGURING MURPHY'S LAW AND ASSUMING IT WONT BE AVAILABLE..I'VE RECRUITED 2 OR 3 "TECHIES" (CHEAP LABOR THEY LOVE THIS STUFF) AND WILL GET THE MANUAL TO SEE IF ITS SOMETHING THEY CAN DEF DO...IF NOT, I'LL MOST LIKELY HAVE DIYAUTO SEND ME A BUILT ONE...OR MAYYYYYYBE GO AT IT MYSELF..BUT THATS PROB A LAST RESORT..(NO SOLDERING/PC BUILDING EXP)

NOT A DD, MOSTLY FOR TRACK/AUTOX DAYS SO NO PROB W/ THE LAW...AS FOR PERF. WISE I CAN ALWAYS CHANGE SETUP TO RECIRC

THIS ONE GOT AWAY FROM ME A LIL BIT...HOPE THIS HELPS...BEGI'S DP BOLTS UP TO THE STOCK EXHAUST FLANGE (I BELIEVE PRECAT)...I WILL BE USING A CUSTOM 3" EXHAUST, AND WHEN I SPOKE W/ STEPH, SHE HAD A GREAT/SIMPLE IDEA...CUT THE STOCK EXHAUST FLANGE, AND USE IT ON THE NEW PIPING...PRESTO.....NOW I HAVE NO EMISSIONS/SMOG, AND ITS NOT A DD, SO LIKE I SAID I'M DOING 3" STRAIGHT (NO CAT) TO A MAGNAFLOW MUFFLER...YOU'LL HAVE TO ASK ABOUT AFTERMARKET EXHAUST SYSTEMS, BUT I'D THINK IT'D WORK SINCE MOST AFTERMARKET SYSTEMS ARE CATBACK, SO THEY'D HAVE TO BOLT UP TO STOCK FLANGES.....IF NOT U CAN PROB GET SOMEONE TO USE THE STOCK FLANGE ON THE AFTERMARKET SYSTEM AS WELL.......AS FOR TURBO LOCATION, FROM WHAT I CAN TELL THE MANIFOLD SEEMS TO BE THE DECIDING FACTOR...SOME SIT LOWER OR HIGHER, BUT I THINK FOR THE MOST PART ITS PRETTY CLOSE...SORRY IF NOT MUCH HELP, BUT I MADE UP MY MIND TO USE BEGI FOR MANI+DP A WHILE BACK, AND I KNOEW I WAS GOING CUSTOM 3" EXHAUST, SO MY ONLY THOUGHT WAS DP FLANGE WHICH WAS NO BIGGIE....




Here ya go...like I said pics will be later since i'm at work...hope this helped, and maybe someone can chime in to help you out as well...

**
Might be funny to see a guy walking around HD w/ I/C in hand...but at least I'll know what I'm getting...I gotta get one of those bolt/thread measuring thingies...I'm hoping to have the I/C setup tonight or tomm night...sounds easy..3 straight brackets, 4holes, 4bolts, 2 existing bolts....Bet the hardest part is getting it straight/level...

For you Sam...
1st pic shows turbine housing bolts--there's 5 or 6, simply break 'em free and unscrew a lil (about 1/2 way)...once you do that (and take off the wg) the turbine can be clocked/rotated whatever..
2nd pic shows comp housing bolts/brackets--there's 2 brackets, with 2 bolts holding each bracket...again loosen, and then you have to strongly, but gently/calmly/smoothly rotate the comp housing....
***If these dont serve the purpose I'll take better one's when I take the turbo off the car again...was just too lazy to do it tonight..Anything else I can help u with lemme know!


***And for all, 3rd pic is 1st part of IC mounting...I wasn't even planning on doing anything tonight, but couldnt resist...So I grabbed the hacksaw and cut a bracket, then drilled 2 holes...nothing to brag about..

FYI home depot doesnt really have metric bolts, at least not in any size that seems useful to an automobile....But VOILA, open my intercooler box and there's 4 bolts!!! Home depot did have alum brackets...tho..

There's gonna be some washers in there, just like that for now...
Enjoy...WOT is expecting my call so i can finally order my lines/fittings/etc..

Thanks a lot of the explanation and the pictures.

I think you answered my exhaust question. If I understood correctly normally you would re use the stock pipe between the catalytic and the exhaust manifold, to connect the downpipe to the cat and then after the cat you can have a larger exhaust?

In my mind what I want to know is, if you get a 3 inch exhaust and want to retain your catalytic, how do you connect the cat to the downpipe? What is this piece called? Would this be a turbo back exhaust?

Confusion++, but once I'm set straight I should be good.

--------------

About the wideband O2 sensor. I was reading the FAQ and it basically says that its usefull for an an after market ECU but if you(the person) will be doing tuning its pretty useless.
Does the aftermarket ECU use both the OEM and a WideBand O2, or just one, or replace the OEM with a wideband to properly meter the AFR?

Tony.....you gotta rotate the center section to be veritcal.

Im guessing that you cant just rotate the turbine or compressor to any angle, the bolts have to line up with the holes.

I like to be thorough;)

------

Reading the FAQ and just thinking logically, I think you will need a new fuel pump to match your larger injectors. But I hear that most people are getting away with 265cc injectors that come stock I believe if they are making in the neighborhood of 200hp.

Just curious, other then doing the math how else would you know if its time for larger injectors?

Brain---I was leaning over when I took the pic...it's perfectly vertical, just a bad pic for orientation...but thnaks for looking out!...

Sam--if you look under the car you'll see a flange BEFORE the cat...from that flange UP to the headers get removed, but its actually 2 pieces (headers + downpipe), you just remove as 1 piece.... Then BEGI downpipe connects to the turbo, and to the cat... If you want to retain the cat, there should be a flange just AFTER the cat, where you can bolt up your exhaust...
**Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is the way I understand it...
***Sam, the BEGI DP I was told was being built...but wont be here for at least another week or so...When I get it I'll go picture crazy for you...

***Again correct me if I'm wrong guys, btu in ref to the wb02...I think you can run it either with the stock one (run 2), or by itself...And I think you have it backwards, it's only useful if tuning yourself...if you go somewhere to get it tuned, they will have one they can temp install...

duh i see it now....blocks usually arent sitting on 30° angle

Lol...not true, when I did my swap my engine was sitting at 30degrees until I realized the motormount was lined up...took 3days of fighting!!!!

AH HA. I figured out why I was so confused.

The first picture is what I saw on flyin miata while doing my research. If you noticed I may have mentioned "turbine outlet" and "downpipe". For some reason at some point I started to think they were the same thing. Hence, my question, which effectively is, how does the down-pipe reach all the way to the cat. Why did I ask, looking at the picture its really short, and no way the cat is that close to the turbo. Thats where all the confusion came. The second picture I just found on Begi's site and after re reading flyin miata I saw where I was confused. Two piece down pipe.

The next question is about the third picture. Why dont you get one of those manifolds? I hear that the larger tubes allow the exhaust to reach higher velocity upon exit.

Third question referring to the third picture as well, where are you getting the piece that allows you to mount the maf/map between the air filter and compressor?

I've always tried to keep it as vertical as possible, but direct from Garrett's turbo guide:

"The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the [water] pipes should eliminate peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger approximately 25 degrees about the axis of shaft rotation."

Also,

"Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over approximately 40 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil oulet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go 'uphill' at any point."

Sam I suggest you start posting your own threads.

You are right.I guess my manifold question is on topic, but the rest I agree should be in its own thread.

I apologize :(, I guess I did get a little carried away with the hijacking.

Sorry tvalenziano.

Hey man its all good, but yea I appreciate it...
But dont just become a refuge now...just fyi on that 3rd pic..you'll have to research and decide for yourself...but from what I gathered, the turbo i'm using spools super fast, so it wasnt really neccessary(overkill?), also they are more prone to cracking and whatnot vs a cast iron piece, but they can be fixed easily(durability?), and its more money (el cheapo?)..lol
As for the piece for the map, I simply havent gotten that far yet...

TurboTim, I saw that too...but as with most of the info on their site it left alot unanswered for me...everyone on here always says vertical for the oil drain, so...I just followed the herd..

I did some research, seems that the curvy manifold is not for T3 turbos. Dont worry about being cheap, it wouldn't have worked for you anyway ;).

Slight update...called Begi today to see status on the dp (sam's ? reminded me to follow up), and they had already shipped it out!!! Which was great, until I asked them to verify about the wb02 bung, and 3" after the flex.., somethign what arry, and it shipped incorrectly..they intercepted it via ups, and rerouted back to them so they can correct...So I guess it'll be mid next week or so, which is what was originally anticipated when I ordered due to fab time...oh well.....

Big update, on the misc parts...for the time being I'll leave out where I ordered from, but once I receive/inspect/install I'll post my full opinions...I'll say this much now, service/advice/patience upfront has been fantastic...Good news is if all is good (prob will be), I was able to get the following from 1 place, 1 order.....This should spare a few people a ton of legwork...thanks to the "anonymous source" which will soon be revealed!
Parts ordered...

Oil Drain Flange (1)
Oil Return Gasket (1)
Inlet Gasket (1)
14mm Banjo Fitting Set for coolant lines - 3/8" Barb (2)
Straight 1/2" NPT to -10 AN (1)
45 Degree 1/2" NPT to -10 AN (1)
Custom Oil Feed Line 90*/90*/ @ 30" (ss braided) (1)
Custom Oil Return Line straight/45*/ @ 25" (ss braided) (1)
Wastegate reloc Bracket (1)
HOSE-RUBBER-3/8"- (6 ft)
Coupler 2.00" to 2.50" (3)
(SS) Straight Pipe 2.00" (6ft)
(SS) 90 Degree Elbow 2.00" (6)
(SS) 90 Degree Elbow 2.50" (2)
T-Bolt Clamp - 2.25" (9)
T-Bolt Clamp - 2.75" (7)
Straight Coupler 2.00" (4)
45* Coupler 2.00" (1)
90* Coupler 2.00" (1)
Straight Coupler 2.50" (2)
Aem Uego WB02

With this chunk taken care of...I'm sitting at about 3k spent(:eek: dont tell da wife!!:eek: ), and with MS, clutch, & exhaust being the biggest items left...Others include DIY fuel rail hardware, gauge pods, vacuum lines+fittings, air filter, heat shielding, and lower rad hose...and MAYBE a lightweight flywheel..(I hear some say this us a no/no on turbo cars??? Need some opinions there)...Gonna end up a lil over budget, but with what should be a badass setup...I hope...

Comments, concerns, thoughts, questions, etc are welcome...

Now ur starting to make me second guess myself..lol...I dont have a t3, I have a gt25...per begi site
"549.00 p/n 60402 '94 to '97, External Wastegate, w/ EGR, T25 or T28 Turbo" ...of course you'd have to ditch the intg wg...
Either way I'm happy so far...just would like to know for the sake of knowing....:bigtu:

Yes yes, you are correct. Ok, no more posting until triple checking everything I have found.

Sorry.

lol its all good!

I think I figured out my question about the maf/map. Depending on what kind of ECU you will be using you may not need one. How I came to this conclusion. Flyin Miata sells a Throttle Body Inlet Pipe and Air Filter Mount, read what it says underneath the picture. Even though the hydra kit uses a recirculating BOV, I dont think it would be needed since you can probably program the computer to work without it.

Id just like to know exactly how it knows how much air is there when using a recirculating valve, setting up fuel maps would be simpler without it I think.


Btw, if its not a secret, how much did you pay for your turbo? I was searching around and its a lot, 800 dollar range. Im going to have to see what people are using alternatively to it and how much they are spending.

edit: Look at the third picture in post #33, that stainless manifold has a turbo with an internal waste gate on it. Interesting?

I dont mean to sound like a dick, but where have you encountered money savings so far by going the DIY route?

Im the type of person that enjoys calling placing, talking to people, even bargaining(must be my jewish roots) so I imagine or hope there would be some money savings, so im curious how much overall that would be. If its small, then maybe its not worth the effort, granted the knowledge you gain from doing it yourself can not have a value placed on it.

Please pardon my curiosity.

if he had not spent 700+$ on manifolds then he would be sitting pretty good with a 50$ rrfpr and some 50$ 300cc injectors via me. and could make 250+whp all day long. Or even ditch the fmic and get a DO WI system and make even more hp. but he chose a partial kit and he has kit money in it to prove it. DIY is always cheaper if A you make the parts B you use parts no one else values C you get stuff for free. In my case i used B quite succesfully and A a little but not a whole lot. tab for high hp setup 2500$ including clutch.

Well it's yet to be determined...and you have to compare apples to apples...The cheapest kit, wont have all these things in the setup, so you'd have to look at pretty much the most expensive one's.....Also, see my goals in the 1st post...EITHER save money, or have a setup with all the pros of a kit, but no cons...Simply put, 4k for a good kit+you'd still need ECU+clutch and whatnot...I'm at 3k+ecu+clutch...so hopefully cheaper, and even better...hopefully my setup will not have ANY shortcomings as I am covering/trying to cover every aspect...
But again, to each their own...in the end I'll do a full tally and comments on everything...but there's a long way to go still....

Magna is right, however I dont have the ability to make parts, I have nowhere to get them for free, and I wasnt willing to take risks...So for me th eoption was basically pay for a kit, and get the rest...OR DIY but safely/surely....Again to each their own, but if I end up saving a lil money, and have all the best parts so i can sleep at night...I'm one happy mo-fo!

**parts update....The list in the previous post will be here on Friday!!! Also, a couple pieces are coming today! I will continue taking pics of the parts as they come in, BEFORE they are on the car...and of course after...
**The inlaw's are coming in from Germany on sunday....Hopefully Saturday is VERY productive, as the next 2 weeks I'll be escaping to the garage late at night to turn a bolt here & there...

Make sure it's actually 3" after the flex. When my DP arrived, I measured the ID of the pipe and it was 2.75" even though I had specifically ordered 3" piping from before the wastegate re-entry, all the way back to the flange. I wasted $120 in shipping to have Corky tell me that their 3" pipes were 2.98" OD with .080 wall thicknesses. I wasn't about to argue with him, since I needed the DP ASAP, but I was not pleased that I paid for a 3" DP and got a 2.8" DP.

Basically, be careful, because if you intend to buy 3" flanges from someone like Jason at Enthuza, they aren't going to bolt up to your 3" Begi DP. Everyone else measures exhaust piping on the ID; don't know why BEGI measures it on the OD.

To be honest my whole experience with begi has been really confusing and somewhat frustrating...Hopefully it'll be resolved shortly...
Communication w/ Steph has been real slow...the DP was actually delivered to me today, and UPS had seen that the sneder requested it sent back...However, yesterday afternoon I got an email from Steph saying that my DP was completed and ready to ship...:confused: I wrote back for an explanation, and told her why that didnt make sense, and I got no response...
Like I said hopefully it gets resolved.., soon...The manifold went smoothly, but considering I spent close to 1k...I'd really expect better on the info part...

As for the sizing, my plan is to resuse the stock flange on the cat..basically cut it off, and have it welded to the 3" custom piping....I'm guessing it can be "opened up" to the same size as whatever the dp is...But interesting to hear ur story/explanation..In that case the original size of "2.75" is really less than 2"?? I dunno...but will keep u posted..

Always call Steph, no point in waiting for her emails, you could be waiting a long time.

Yeah well shouldn.t be like that...and besides the 2x's I called she was unavailable, and out of the office...AND I like to have things written, especially when there's miscommunication...Besides, when I first began the process of ordering her emails were real fast...

I'm gonna try and give the benefit of the doubt, and say there's a reason for whatever happened, and she'll be all over it, with no more issues...Anyone can drop the ball once...but if there's a 2nd time thats another story..

Sent her an email, and will call Begi to at least let her know to respond asap..
Keep u guys posted...

A lil help....
 

Guys, looks like everyone is on the same page again at Begi...

I need to show them where I want the wb02 bung installed by marking a pic...I'm clueless as I cant tell where from the pics sent to me, nor am I sure that nothing will interfere...

Does anyone have a pic that I can send to Steph showing the location/orientation?

Attached are the pics i was given to mark, but again I dont know my ass from elbow on this...

I always thought that exhaust piping sizes refered to the OD?

those pictures really suck

I don't get why BEGi has such a hard time locating o2 bungs. Look at your second (middle) pic. You want your o2 in the same location BUT closer to vertical, with respect to the top of the pipe. The o2 bung pictured is horizontal, which is bad.

Tubing is measured by the OD.
Pipe is measured by the ID.
That is usually the industry standard.

Lol..I know but thats what they gave me...I thought I saw somone post a pic for the same reason (marking) but cant find it now...

So ben you're sure about location?? If I tell them to put it 100% vertical it wont interfere with anything (body, etc)?? Sorry to be a pain but I can see them putting it on as I tell them, then havign issues and them saying we did what u wanted...

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/wb02001.jpg


just dont mount it like i did there.

U mean cuz the bung is sideways?? Sorry just hard to tell jokes from reality cuz I dont know anythign about it....

no i mean the lc-1 itself, the bung is good.

Does it matter if its before the flex pipe or after? Why didnt you have the bung put in on the top of the pipe, looks like there room?