I need cruise because of my popping-knee, the carbon can is coming out, the diagnotic box is nice to have for troubleshooting.


back to the DIY heatsheild thread please.

 

Word

 

I'm going to try that license plate heat shield I saw a while back.

 

Swain Tech White-Lighting ftw

White Lightning Exhaust by Swain Tech for Automotive Coatings including engine piston coatings, ceramic coating services engine, automotive ceramic coating, ceramic header coating, dry film lubricant, race engine coatings, exhaust header coating

The only "ceramic" coating that will have a measureable effect. I plan on one day getting my turbine housing, manifold and downpipe all coated by Swain Tech.

 

I've got one I will sell you for $20 plus freight.

 

Hustler gave me a good idea. I'm putting one of my mt.net stickers on my box when it's finished.

Getting back ON TOPIC...

Should I build two layers of steel over the turbine? The OEM part is two layers of steel, but they're pretty much touching each other. I could build the part that goes around the turbine say 1/4" clearance around the turbo, then a second layer riveted over it with a 1/8" air gap or something like that. Would an air gap make much difference between the two shields? I would think so.

 

definitely incorporate a gap between the 2 shields. As I am sure you know air is not a favorite medium of energy. I think closing it off would make it even better..... Just strap about 5 flasks together and call it done

 

Better yet layer a thin blanket of fiberglass between the two. You could use the sheet version of the exhaust wrap tape.

 

It's a good thing my turbo has hot water running through it, or it would ice up with my shield.

 

seal up the two pieces of metal on the outside, and create a vacuum on the inside, like a thermos.

 

Looking at various people's setups the question arose in my mind, does the length of tubing pre-turbo to the filter matter at all? SamS's for example is very long whereas some have but a few inches..

 

I'm gonna say the length doesn't matter much. I'm not even sure that the temperature matters. Again, I'm just doing all this to keep it cool so I can fill this box with foam to make it quieter.

 

Two layers is always going to be better for insulating because air is the insulator.
You stop the radiant heat with the shield, and the convective heat with the air gap. Double win. Most people don't spend the time/money/effort to do a second layer, but it will help.

 

Yeah, air gap FTW. I need to learn more about heat transfer. Like how shields reflect heat and all is news to me. Never saw it that way. Taking Thermo II now and heat transfer next semester though.

lol at your sig....

 

I made mine using aluminum sheeting and aluminum bars from home depot. stuck it together with rivets and bent the bar by hand. everything is cool to the touch around it so it's stopping all the radiant heat beautifully.

 

Mine is a single-layer steel construction, with the whole inner surface (top, side, rear) lined in Thermo Tec aluminized fiberglass blanket (this is why there are so many rivets; some of them are holding trim strips that retain the blanket). After a long drive, the outer surface of the shield, while warm, is cool enough to lay your hand on. If you really want to keep the heat in, but can't quite manage fully dual-layer construction, just line the inside with this stuff.

 

Here's the one that I built tonight. It's not perfect and the 1,200* paint didn't lay down that well, but it will work.

 

^^ Hey I like that. Any chance I could get a drawing for the sheet patterns?

EDIT: Never mind, wrong manifold. Looks easy enough to pattern up though.

 

My pattern was a Busch Light box (24 pack, of course) and duct tape. And, yeah, nobody has that mani except me. It's a DIY job.

 

That's a very nice looking cover, Stein. I really wish I could have figured out a way to mount mine to the body rather than the engine, as it would have saved a lot of frustration with the early versions failing due to vibration. It took several tries to come up with a design that wouldn't crack in short order. With the placement of the turbo on the Greddy manifold however, there was nothing for it.