This is why I KNOW your Fabricating is awesome!! :makeout:

Exactly.

Ahh I see. A good display of my ignorance. Makes sense now.

I'm gonna go price cutoff wheels as well as get my gas bottle filled up. Hoping to get this manifold all tacked up today and start on the downpipe as well.

More pictures.

Made more progress today. The meat and potatoes of the manifold are all tacked and taped up ready for me to pull the car in and tear it apart to test fit everything.
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I can tell already i'm going to need more angle.
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You can see the spacer I cut underneath the tape in this one.
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One of my main concerns so far is that i've already drilled my turbine housing to the bigger M10 studs, but this weirtech flange is drilled/tapped for M8 and doesn't look like there is a substantial amount of metal around the holes to safely drill it out even more. I plan on through-bolting this when I get it all figured out instead of studs.
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I took the advice of Artech and Tim and picked up cutoff wheels for the angle grinder. Holy hell do I feel stupid for using a fucking hacksaw...:jerkit:
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As soon as I can get someone over to help me move this big piece of shit out of the middle of the garage i'll be able to pull the car in and really get to work.
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Weak sauce, use car as pusher. Reinforce table legs first.

I used it to push someone's trashcan out of the middle of the alley the other day. Worked surprisingly well for a plastic can. Prolly not so well on a few hundred pounds of iron...

You have more than enough room to drill out to 10 mm,Drill out 13/32(.406) and use through bolts,Mcmaster has High temp bolts in standard sizes,3/8-24 inconel is about $5each.Just my .02 pence
-G-

Drilling out to use a 3/8-24 bolt is the good idea and like Rev. Greg said there's lots of room. If you need some fancy 12point ARP nuts I can get some. Makes getting a wrench (box end) on there easier.

Overall, looking great!

All I can find is inconel wire on mcmaster. Link? Help?

Tim, how much for your fancy nuts?

PM'ed ya.

Sorry it was Monel
McMaster-Carr
This should help.
-G-

None in 3/8-24 that I can find.

I think i'm gonna end up going 316 SS unless someone can give me a good reason to do otherwise.

To be honest I m using 3/8-24 316ss I dont rremember where I found them.I could have swore I saw 3/8-24 on that page.SorryI suck
-G-

they have 3/8-24 316ss for sure. Just not Monel. I think through-bolting the SS bolts with Tim's nuts (and some washers of course) with safety wire will keep my junk pretty tight at the track.

Yeah I made some .125" 316 ss washers and drilled the heads for wire and I have ss mechanical locknuts.Im also running a 9/16" thick flange,Someone needs to donate a camera so I can post pics:giggle:
-G-

Funniest post of the day!

I Know I deleted something,trying to keep on post!:laugh:
-G-

Got my old stuff out. Boy am I glad i'll never be putting that pain in the ass begi manifold and downpipe on again. I forgot just how big of a pain in the ass it is to install/remove.

I quickly mocked up the new manifold (forgot to take a picture) and as I suspected, i'll need to rotate the collector out a little so turbo not hit block but other than that its going to be a marvelous fit. I'm going to be so glad to easily reach every nut/bolt on the new setup. Downpipe routing is going to be a breeze as well.

Gotta go play cribbage at the bar with some friends cause i'm 90 years old and its what we do on wednesdays. Will get pics up tomorrow.

Manifold build phail.

Not so bad from this side.
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Horrid from this side.
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Gappage.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSC01588.jpg
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Not even sure why I tacked it together. I guess to get motivation to order more pipe and try again. since it looks decent from one side.

I guess my options at this point are to order more pipe and try to cope it again with more patience this time or order all mild bends and completely start from scratch like this:
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I think making a 4 into 1 collector would be easier than trying to cope pipe into the center 2 runners. My biggest mistake was cutting with the dremel instead of a hole saw :(

I started hurrying last night to try and get it done in time to take to Sbk to weld for me tonight. Oh well, i learned some things.

Coulda done without the crotch shot :squint:

The gap on #3 isnt too bad but, yeah, #2 won't fill well. Do you have more straight pipe? Why not give it another shot? That 4-1 collector is actually going to be harder to make IMO.

Don't lie, you love the crotch shot.
I don't have enough pipe left to try again. Have to order more.

I could fill it. But that's because I'm A pro.

Remove the tack and cut a small filler piece?

You got me :dancegay:

Sucks to have to reorder for a ~4" section you need. Are you sure you're out? What about the piece you used as a "log"?

Edit: Actually, there's a 1-1.5' section in the pics, whered that go?

Dropped it off at Sbk's house. He is working on it. Who knows when i'll be able to pick it up though so he should post some pictures ;)

Hey didn't get a chance to post pics. Been busy. Ill get some up tonight

Come on lets see these pics already!

Agreed!

Come on with the pics, I could have driven up to you and taken some pics by now! work is over rated go and pick this thing up!

Long awaited i know.

Didnt come out as well as i would have liked but still looks pretty nice

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Still have machine shavings inside

Not bad at all! He'll be very pleased once he sees these here pixies.

Dude it looks way totally awesome! I'm super pleased for my first mani (even though I didn't do all the work)!

I wish I had done a better job on those middle 2 runners. They point away from eachother a little bit :( I definitely know what i'll be doing differently next time and I think it'll come out 12349876539872345987 times better.

Thanks again Stan, see you wednesday night!

I cant wait to build my manifold for the .86 disco. May start producing 1.6 manifolds depending on how well it turns out.

Hmm, so you make your MS and then use everything you learn to make me a better one. Now you made your fist manifold, and want to take what you learned to make a better one. Wonder who it should go to....

You want a replacement greddy?

In the distant future, yes. It's warped enough that the PO's relief cuts are touching, it's near impossible to get off the studs, the gasket surface sucks, and it's still only m8 bolts. It still works though, and after wayne's awesome MS and some injectors, I can't afford it. Not if I actually wanna track it at least.

Get it on and lets see how it runs

Did you bolt it down (all bolts) to the head while welding? Looks like you got some warpage.

He resurfaced it.

The funny thing is i did have it bolted down when welding the actual flange which is when i thought it would warp. Unfortunately i was wrong. When welding the butt joints caused it to pull the flange which is evident. I decked the flange but will definitely keep this in mind when building future manifolds. Im still new to this so i am trying to absorb every detail i can to better gear me for future endeavors.

Another competitor :vash:

JK

Yeah, that SS really likes to shrink. How much heat/amps did you end up using?

Had 130 atmy fingers. Depending on if the joint was beveled or had root opening I would start off full throttle for a few seconds then back down to 90 after I notice penetration.

That's about what I use single pass with no gap, just a deep bevel. So there's full penetration? Do you have pics of the inside from the head flange side?

A couple of more pictures. Since the diff is toast and the car is going to be sitting a bit pending a new diff, I figured i'd tear it apart again and start working on the downpipe. Since i'm doing a 3" bellmouth, i'm waiting on my flange and oval to 3" transition from ATP. I'll have a v-band on the outlet for ease of removal in the future.

Here is how it sits right now. I dont have the hardware to attach the turbo to the manifold yet. Not sure what i'm doing since there isnt' enough room to through-bolt it. Guess i'll just do 10mm studs like on the old BEGi manifold. What bit should I drill the holes out with for that?

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Keep in mind its also not clocked yet. I still haven't figure out what i'm doing with the mixing manifold and lower radiator hose, either. Was contemplating doing what neogenesis did with his setup.

If you want, I have the correct drill/tap/extra helicoils for the 10mm studs. You are welcome to use them.

Looks awesome btw. Should be fun once you get that diff fixed :)

I sent you thse 3/8-24 12 point arp nuts and some washers. Oh well.

I have used those ATP 3" oval to round transitions before...they do not arrive as described. Neither side will be "flat". But still easier than hammering a pipe oval over that sort a distance.

Oh, well I can just as easily tap it for a 3/8-24 stud setup. I still wish I could use through bolts. Unless I ovaled the holes out to be able to tilt the bolts to get them through it just wont work :( Not enough clearance between the collector and the flange.

Dang that turbo looks small in there, maybe its just the pics?

T25s are pretty small turbos. Compared to your tractor turbo its tiny, yes.

Are you still having issues with the flange sitting flat? Looks pretty sweet i think.

Ya it still teeters when its sitting flat but i'm going to try it and see if it leaks or not. I wish I knew someone with a sanding table, that would fix it pretty well.

I think the turbine flange needs resurfacing as well. At this point I'm just trying to get it together and get the downpipe done and running again.

I realise the Greddy manifold always had problems and these were solved by stress cuts. But why does this manifold have cuts (for the Greddy reason?) around the bolt holes? Surely it was the tubing expansion that you want to correct so strong bolt holes help?
I notice TurboTim doing this too can someone please give me clue :(

BTW I think you've done a bang up job there well done.

Not sure what the deal is with the cuts to be honest. The flange comes that way from Weirtech.

My round to oval transition and flange came in today along with tim's fancy nuts.

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Downpipe build starts tomorrow morning.

Only one of my manifolds has these cuts on the head flange and that is because I got that flange from weirtech and he put them there at some point.

That transition and flange look like the cat's meow. Is it going to take much massaging to get the transition to drop in?

Yes, very cool and yes, took some massaging. Massaged the oval narrower with the vice to fit the flange bevel, then massaged the round end to fit into the Vband flange i'm using.

I actually dont like the way its fitting with this particular v band flange. At first I thought it'd make more sense to use the heavier duty flange on the turbine exit, but now i'm thinking i'm going to change it to a lower profile flange I got from Abe (artech). The inner diameter on the smaller diameter one will allow me to slip the transition inside (giggity) it and leave me about an inch or more space for the first bend of the downpipe.

I have pics but Photobucket is down at the moment, will post them up as soon as I can.

Pics of the assembly tacked together. The flange also doesn't fit the turbine housing unless I bore out one of the holes larger. I noticed this same thing was done on the BEGI downpipe flange so I dont feel horrible about it.
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Looks good bro

Keystone light? Man it must suck being jobless. Why two nuts?

I know. I've got an affinity for cheap beer and now that I cant afford good stuff i'm forced to drink cheap stuff exclusively. 3 nights ago you would have seen a Mickey's grenade sitting there =P

Btw i'm not jobless anymore. Welcome to Costco, I love you.

And what about 2 nuts?