Drilling and Tapping oil pan?
 

Okay.. I understand how to drill and tap. Now what size drill and tap should I use for the T25? Should I tap it above oil levels? And what fitting or whatever do I use? What do I put in the threaded hole?:gay:

information can be found at www.readmyfaq.com

Call FM, they'll tell you what you need.

suck it easy you douche

Braineack there isn't a difference in sizes between turbos?

Yo Baby!
Line is Dead :confused:

http://www.rev2red.com/images/cars/faq/oilports.jpg


Braineack Does the oil feed thing need to be drilled. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that. There is something already there I have the early 1.8's. What do I do to it?

This doesn't even make enough sense to be an insult.

HOLY SHIT GUYS:

drill bit needs to be close to: 45/64"

Think 11/16 is close enough?

Brain: I'm trying to get that damn drill and tap mailed out. My dumbass forgot to mail it before I left even though I said I needed your address to do it. I'm looking at buying new parts to get mailed out seeing how I screwed up pretty good on this one.

Can I JB weld that bitch?

you jb weld it once you've drilled and tapped it to make it seal. as an alternative, loc-tite has a number of liquid teflon tape products you could use, so its not quite so.....ugly.

I would suggest with your 1/2" NPT (national pipe taper thread) you use a 23/32 drill. no substitutes. repeat, DO NOT FUCK WITH DRILL SIZES WHEN TAPPING

http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm

That's weird, every other digram I have seen said 45/64 was the correct size drill to use. The 23/32 is just going to give you a slightly tighter hole.

You are only cutting a couple of threads into the pan, it isn't that thick. The JB weld will do the trick.

Thank you for giving me a productive answer. By the way what is our pan made of?

The pan is aluminum. Just make sure you clean all the oil off the pan around the hole and I would run tape around the drillbit like 2" from the tip so you can't push the drill to far into the pan and into your crank or something holding it.

hmm I'm not sure I understand that.. My oil pan is already off the car.

Then it doesn't matter.

If you have the pan off you can put the return anywhere you like to. The main reason that the return is often done up front is because it's the only place you can get to with a drill with the pan in the car. The factory BPT pans put it over the rear sump, since you won't be drilling in situ you have a lot more flexibility of where to locate it. Common sense will prevail and you will likely drop it as straight down as you can without interfering with the motor mounts.

Mark

Then you're an idiot if you don't have a fitting welded on. Case closed.

look at what these fellas did:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/projects/O...preinstall.jpg

that gives you a real good idea of where to put it if you've got the pan off the car. between the two ribs, close the the rear one, towards the bottom where it tappers into the pan. its a better location then the front when you've got the pan off.

Sick coolant bypass to the back of the motor.

its aluminum,their is no need to,the tap method is fine...also i used a 23/32 bit or was it 22/32

sorry ---- rag I don't have a tig welder sitting at home.

The tap method? You must mean the "tap and JBweld ghetto shit method"- which is a plausible route with the pan on the car, but is not ideal.

Sorry, but this is fucking ghetto:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/at...4&d=1140491587

:rolleyes: And I'm sure no shops in your city have one either. Give me a break.

When the last time you removed the underbelly pan and admired your retun line?

WTF do you mean it's not ideal...it's the most ideal...it's just not pretty...who the fuck cares?!
Fucking Permaseal it or Red Thedlock it if you really care about looking clean....fuck dude...who gives a shit how it looks...

And it's not ghetto if it works 100%....it's a fucking return line for crying out loud....it's been done this way for 17 years. I JB welded the fuck out of it to 1. ensure it didn't somehow back it's way out, and 2. seal the threads...

Oh, I understand where you're coming from. It's an improvised way to get it to work with the pan on the car. But with the pan off the car, why not do it right? And here's a little rule about modifying cars I like to follow: if you use duct tape or JBWeld it's NEVER right, even if it works 100%. If the pan is off why not pay someone $15 to weld a fitting on?

Maybe it's just me but I like all the work I do on my cars to look professional. It's how I am. In all likelihood I'll end up using JBWeld (or similar) because my pan will be on my car, but I'm the kind of ---- fuck that scrapes off the excess, lets it get a little tacky and then smooths it out- And yeah, I have sealed stuff up with JBWeld before.

i did a 3/8" fitting. seems to be working fine.

PS: I used no JBweld, just teflon paste.

:blah:

Why is everyone so angry lately?

I'm not angry. I do enjoy lively discussion, which might be apparent by now. I don't think a few strong words hurt now and again. I still know who's sandbox I'm in and I hope nobody thinks I'm shitting in it.

hey buddy go weld a brass,copper or steel fitting to aluminum.

also i jbwelded my return and you cant even tell.

Just to ghetto up the pan tapping a little more, a holesaw works great!!

I know for most applications you should use the right drill bit, but the bit for a 1/2" NPT tap is one big, expensive mofo.

We are talking about 1/8" thick aluminum, and a position that makes it very hard to get a giant drill bit straight into. I just used a 11/16" holesaw and then tapped it with no problems. I would say in the situation it is actually better to drill the hole a bit small and let the tap ream it out nice and round rather than risk the hole being to big. Less chips and mess in the pan from a holesaw as well.

They make fittings specifically to be welded to aluminum. I had a cast aluminum fuel rail for my DSM that had them welded to both sides... NEXT!

The aluminum is thick enough that you can tap it quite nicely, there is no real need for the JB weld, I think FM/begi's manual calls for RTV. I did use JB, just because I actually thought it was the best thing for the job. My JB weld job doesn't look all messy like that either. I ordered the tap and drill bit from McMaster-Carr, maybe $20 for both. I have since used the same drill and tap for other things.

If the pan is off the car all you really need to do is get a piece of aluminum tubing tig welded on to the pan (with a little extra weld on the end to serve as a barb), it would probably cost less than the drill and tap method.

I couldn't find an alluminum fitting for mine and there was no way to weld non aluminum to aluminum. So chill J it works it holds, and if you do it clean it is perfect. just be sure the pan is nice and clean and the tap is straight fwiw i put my drain right in front of the motor mount and it was perfect. :D Also i would not use cheap as rubber hose for this get some real teflon inner braided stainless line and laeve one less thing to worry about any hydraulics store should have it in popular thickness's made while you wait.