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Old 05-18-2007, 04:14 PM   #1
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Default Drilling and Tapping oil pan?

Okay.. I understand how to drill and tap. Now what size drill and tap should I use for the T25? Should I tap it above oil levels? And what fitting or whatever do I use? What do I put in the threaded hole?:gay:
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:21 PM   #2
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information can be found at www.readmyfaq.com
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:23 PM   #3
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Call FM, they'll tell you what you need.
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:27 PM   #4
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Call FM, they'll tell you what you need.
suck it easy you douche
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:28 PM   #5
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information can be found at www.readmyfaq.com
Braineack there isn't a difference in sizes between turbos?
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:28 PM   #6
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Yo Baby!
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:32 PM   #7
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Braineack Does the oil feed thing need to be drilled. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that. There is something already there I have the early 1.8's. What do I do to it?
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:32 PM   #8
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suck it easy you douche
This doesn't even make enough sense to be an insult.
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:39 PM   #9
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HOLY **** GUYS:

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The procedure for drilling and tapping the pan is rather straight-forward and well covered in the turbo Miata community. A 1/2" NPT to 5/8" Slip on fitting is typically used when using a high temperature silicone return hose. Or a 1/2" NPT to -10AN fitting would be used if using stainless steel lines.


Careful, oil pickup is directly behind the location.
drill bit needs to be close to: 45/64"
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:17 PM   #10
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Think 11/16 is close enough?

Brain: I'm trying to get that damn drill and tap mailed out. My dumbass forgot to mail it before I left even though I said I needed your address to do it. I'm looking at buying new parts to get mailed out seeing how I screwed up pretty good on this one.
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:26 PM   #11
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Can I JB weld that bitch?
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:39 PM   #12
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you jb weld it once you've drilled and tapped it to make it seal. as an alternative, loc-tite has a number of liquid teflon tape products you could use, so its not quite so.....ugly.

I would suggest with your 1/2" NPT (national pipe taper thread) you use a 23/32 drill. no substitutes. repeat, DO NOT **** WITH DRILL SIZES WHEN TAPPING

http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
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Old 05-18-2007, 05:52 PM   #13
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That's weird, every other digram I have seen said 45/64 was the correct size drill to use. The 23/32 is just going to give you a slightly tighter hole.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:21 PM   #14
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You are only cutting a couple of threads into the pan, it isn't that thick. The JB weld will do the trick.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:24 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
You are only cutting a couple of threads into the pan, it isn't that thick. The JB weld will do the trick.
Thank you for giving me a productive answer. By the way what is our pan made of?
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:35 PM   #16
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The pan is aluminum. Just make sure you clean all the oil off the pan around the hole and I would run tape around the drillbit like 2" from the tip so you can't push the drill to far into the pan and into your crank or something holding it.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:40 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
The pan is aluminum. Just make sure you clean all the oil off the pan around the hole and I would run tape around the drillbit like 2" from the tip so you can't push the drill to far into the pan and into your crank or something holding it.
hmm I'm not sure I understand that.. My oil pan is already off the car.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:41 PM   #18
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Then it doesn't matter.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaKMaN View Post
Thank you for giving me a productive answer. By the way what is our pan made of?
If you have the pan off you can put the return anywhere you like to. The main reason that the return is often done up front is because it's the only place you can get to with a drill with the pan in the car. The factory BPT pans put it over the rear sump, since you won't be drilling in situ you have a lot more flexibility of where to locate it. Common sense will prevail and you will likely drop it as straight down as you can without interfering with the motor mounts.

Mark
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Old 05-18-2007, 07:01 PM   #20
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hmm I'm not sure I understand that.. My oil pan is already off the car.
Then you're an idiot if you don't have a fitting welded on. Case closed.
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