Okay.. I understand how to drill and tap. Now what size drill and tap should I use for the T25? Should I tap it above oil levels? And what fitting or whatever do I use? What do I put in the threaded hole?:gay:

 

information can be found at www.readmyfaq.com

 

Call FM, they'll tell you what you need.

 

suck it easy you douche

 

Braineack there isn't a difference in sizes between turbos?

 

Yo Baby!
Line is Dead

 

Braineack Does the oil feed thing need to be drilled. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that. There is something already there I have the early 1.8's. What do I do to it?

 

This doesn't even make enough sense to be an insult.

 

HOLY **** GUYS:

drill bit needs to be close to: 45/64"

 

Think 11/16 is close enough?

Brain: I'm trying to get that damn drill and tap mailed out. My dumbass forgot to mail it before I left even though I said I needed your address to do it. I'm looking at buying new parts to get mailed out seeing how I screwed up pretty good on this one.

 

Can I JB weld that bitch?

 

you jb weld it once you've drilled and tapped it to make it seal. as an alternative, loc-tite has a number of liquid teflon tape products you could use, so its not quite so.....ugly.

I would suggest with your 1/2" NPT (national pipe taper thread) you use a 23/32 drill. no substitutes. repeat, DO NOT **** WITH DRILL SIZES WHEN TAPPING

http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm

 

That's weird, every other digram I have seen said 45/64 was the correct size drill to use. The 23/32 is just going to give you a slightly tighter hole.

 

You are only cutting a couple of threads into the pan, it isn't that thick. The JB weld will do the trick.

 

Thank you for giving me a productive answer. By the way what is our pan made of?

 

The pan is aluminum. Just make sure you clean all the oil off the pan around the hole and I would run tape around the drillbit like 2" from the tip so you can't push the drill to far into the pan and into your crank or something holding it.

 

hmm I'm not sure I understand that.. My oil pan is already off the car.

 

Then it doesn't matter.

 

If you have the pan off you can put the return anywhere you like to. The main reason that the return is often done up front is because it's the only place you can get to with a drill with the pan in the car. The factory BPT pans put it over the rear sump, since you won't be drilling in situ you have a lot more flexibility of where to locate it. Common sense will prevail and you will likely drop it as straight down as you can without interfering with the motor mounts.

Mark

 

Then you're an idiot if you don't have a fitting welded on. Case closed.