I have access to the turbo from my old Eagle Talon TSI AWD. Would this be a good match to my Miata, if so what turbo manifold do I need. If I do this I'm leaning towards using a MegaSquirt PnP and water injection without an intercooler as I just want 150 - 200 rwhp without advertising it's been turboed. I want a smooth power delivery for fun on my backroad commute. Whats a good clutch with relatively smooth engagement for this level of power.

 

14b would make a nice turbo for the miata, you'd need a custom manifold and downpipe. mspnp is perfect, i'd go intercooler before i went water injection but that's just me. go with an act clutch

 

i'm going with a DSM 14b myself. Don't get a DSM t25, you'll probably be disappointed.

 

act street/strip clutch and pressure plate

 

I'm using a DSM small 16g, and am pleasantly surprised/pleased with spool, etc.

 

if you don't want a custom manifold, you can find adaptor plates to go from a t25 or t3 manifold flange to the DSM turbo here: http://www.bmcrace.com/index.php?cPath=60_62_74


granted, it is a little ghetto... but whatever. I used one to adapt a DSM turbo to a stock honda manifold back when i had a civic.

edit - the reason you get good spool out of a 16g is that it shares the same turbine housing as the 14b. it just has a slightly larger wheel

 

get megan or obx and brace the **** out of it, but i'd go with an intercooler to start off then maybe water injection afterwards. Because you'll run into enough issues with the turbo itself without the WI just yet. (not hatin' on WI magna just tryin to get him to prioritize )

sleeper look
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...ed+intercooler

 

I need to decide whether to build a custom manifold or use an adapter for my 14b. I know the ACT clutches will handle lots of power; but do they have a smooth engagement? I was against the idea of an IC because I just want to enjoy driving my car without all the kids in their hondas wanting to race, but I never considered painting the IC to stealth it. I wonder how much anodizing it would cost and whether it might be better for heat transfer.

 

Thank you very much for posting the link to those adapter plates.

 

i think that the consensus ended up being that it would be an unnoticable difference, kind of like the size of your hotside and coldside pipes. You'll never know.

 

Thanks for the info, I'm guessing anodizing would be substantially more expensive for little or no improvement.

As far as your signature "Kessel run in 12 parceps" isn't it supposed to be Kessel run in 12 parsecs?

 

beats the hell out of me, but after wikipedia'ing it, yes it is parsecs, thankyou

(obviously no one else here was geeky enough to catch my error )

 

This is false. A 14B has a 6cm turbine housing and a 16G has a 7cm turbine housing. The turbine wheels are identical, both are TD05H wheels.

 

My 16g had a 6cm turbine housing, exactly like my 14b housing. I was under the impression that the 7cm housing was an option.

 

The MHI Sport Upgrade 16G comes with a 7cm housing. Where did you get your turbo? Sometimes place will sell Mitsu turbos without a turbine housing as a replacement for a blown 14B. How are you telling if the turbine housing is a 6cm or 7cm?

 

Lord only knows where it came from originally. I bought it used. I actually have two small 16gs and a 14b, all of which had seemingly identical turbine housings. I just measured the exhaust gas inlet to determine 6cm/7cm. Am I missing something here?

 

The only way measuring the inlet works is if the step is still intact. Basic porting usually removes the step. The inlet of a 7cm housing is 60mm and the inlet of the 6cm (and 8cm) is 54mm.

 

No porting had been done, and they all fit the 6cm stock gasket (although I'm not using the gasket), so I assume 6cm?

 

I'd use the gasket. They leak without them and it hurts spool. Period.

If it fits the standard 6cm gasket then it is a 6cm housing.

 

agreed my gasket and some sealant helped me alot.