Hey guys, a friend of mine installed an EFR turbo kit for his RSX, and it does some very, very strange things. Since you guys are all turbo wizards, I'd figured I'd ask here instead of the stupid honda forums.

Basically what the car does, is it'll spike in boost, then it'll drop off through the RPM band, and closer to redline it spools back up. And sometimes it'll spike in boost so hard it hits boost cut.

We're targeting 15 psi, and we have boost cut set at 17.

So in lower gears:
3000 rpms @ 10 psi
4000 rpms @ 15 psi
5000 RPMS @ 12 psi
6000 RPMS @ 10
7000 RPMS @ 12 PSI
8000 RPMS @ 13

But if we're say in 4th, if we go WOT from 3-3500, it'll spool and hit boost cut at like 4100.

Right now, we running ONLY the internal gate. We did have the BCSV hooked up to the KPRO, but have since removed it to help figure out this problem.

I figured we could turn the preload down on the arm, and just use boost by gear, but I feel there's actually some issues with it.

I did a boost leak test, and it passed. I did the leak test to 20 psi on my air compressor, and no leaks.

 

how tight is the preload?

 

At the moment it's ten mm (or threads). But I've had it as low as 3mm

 

the actuator might be binding
had this happen on a 6258 and the wg can was at too much of an angle

 

Hmm it's the Full Race EFR kit, it as already clocked. I wonder if there is any other way to check it. I'm going to loosen up the preload,and see what it does. Then start applying boost control. But I have a feeling if we do that, we'll make the car a little more laggy.

 

test the wg can with an air compressor and make sure it's not binding
I don't think you should need any more than about 2-3mm of preload to hold the can closed, but then this is a high flowing Honda engine so I may be wrong.
it's been over 10 years since I"ve had an RSX

 

Yeah he's bringing it to my place tomorrow. I'll test it and let you know. Still weird, I wonder why it drops mid RPM's then comes back up. Binding WG does makesense though

 

Sounds like its binding. Mine did this for a while, either eventually it bent the shaft or the shaft being bent caused the binding. Which is part of the reason I ended up buying the turbosmart actuator. You actually have a real small margin for error with the actuator, you're better off having the center housing a little bit off of perfect angle to get the actuator to not bind. I bet if you start a pull at 5k it'll show the same spike and drop and recover in a smaller span. The boost creep at the top end is probably the waste gate not being open enough due to the binding.

 

You fellas called it. I took my air blower and blew into the can. It extended kinda rough, and then got stuck in the open position. I bent the bracket a little bit, and it moves a **** ton better. I don't know how smooth it's supposed to move, but it's a lot better.