It was a MSM manifold.

 

Props given. Looks really good!

 

LOL, are you the guy that argued with me about this over on CR.net? I may have been a bit harsh, but i still stand by what i said

 

Might of bin, My idea behind it was DSM guys do it so a miata should be able to do it. It was a dumb idea. You live and you learn I guess.

 

Here are some crappy Iphone pics of the setup mounted in the car and finished. I did all my water lines in -4 braided SS. The -10 braided line coming off my valve cover goes to the end of my DP to a slash cut. My PVC port on the valve cover is welded shut, and I welded a -10 male fitting where my breather tube was on the valve cover. The -4 cooling lines go from the supply to the EWG, then to the turbo CHRA, then back to the return. The dump tube is a 90* bend, goes down between the DP and the cast manifold, then turns like 25* and points straight down about 2" under the manifold where it vents to atmosphere. I did this cause to weld it to the DP would be a pain if I ever had to dismantle this setup, and I didn't want a whole lot of weight hanging off the side of the EWG. My turbine outlet is a 5 bolt GT28 outlet with the oval port design, I took a piece of 120* bend 3" SS tubing and cut it and smashed it flat to make an angled oval shape before I welded it to the flange. Then I cut it to be about as long as a FM turbine outlet, and welded a v band flange on it. I used my FM SS DP, but I cut the bolt flange off of that and welded a v band flange on it. I thought about making it all 1 piece from the turbo flange to the end of the DP, but if I ever need to take it apart, I simply undo a v band clamp instead of unbolting/ stripping/ snapping off studs. Another thing about my DP, it had 2 O2 ports on it. I used the upper one for my wideband, and the rear one I used a cut off wheel and made it disappear. This became my mounting hole to weld my slash cut to.

 

looking good Todd.

 

Apparently it can be done well. You just have to treat the cast with a certain amount of heat to get good penetration. That is what I have heard but **** I aint ever attempting that **** lol

 

if it can be done well, I have still yet to see it.

pretty much every one of the begi s5 manifolds sold here used has been cracked thus far. same goes for every other welded cast manifold I"ve ever seen.

With Todd using that adapter/bolts I think his manifold might actually hold up. Only thing I see that might happen is those bolts might stretch, so might need inco

 

Same here I havent seen a long lasting welded cast. I really dont understand why begi didnt just have a seperate cast manifold with EWG instead of welding to their current cast.

On the flip side Im thinking about taking some measurements and playing with inventor and getting and adapter made. (off topic) I still need to create an illustrator file for custom gauges too.(so many projects)

 

It's because Miata.

This sort of thing lasts forever on cars that aren't Miatas.

 

I guess I became the long term testing dummy for this setup.

While Todd didn't make that guy one of these, I guess I beat him to the bunch and just bought the whole damn setup! Can't wait to get it working!

 

Update: Manifold still hasn't broken in the location where it was tapped for the ewg.

Point: If this has survived me for a year, it'll likely work for anyone else that wants to take the time to do what Todd did!

 

I'm really glad this held up for ya, and I'm glad you got to experience it. I built it with full intentions of it lasting forever, but then life stuff happened for me and I decided to change my route.