Looks great!

If you wanna give away one of those BOV adapters that came with the kit, I'll pay shipping :)

Careful which one, I bought the same kit and one is stainless steel and the other is aluminum (at least it feels that way). I haven't decided if I will use mine or not, but if I don't use it you can have it. Which material are you looking for?

Yeah one is steel, I used the aluminum one.

Thanks! I still need to tidy up a few things, get a breather filter, reinstall the bumper, and tune the hell out of it. Feels so good to drive it again after a long winter of hibernating though.

These are adapters to recirculate the BOV, right? Do they just screw into the side? But I would prefer stainless steel so I don't have to worry about rust, but either one would be fine. I just have a track day on April 10th that I would like to make, but I'm only going to go if I have my BOV recirculated by then. And I'm poor, so whatever is cheap will work lol.

I had mine welded on. They have no threads but I suppose you could create some if needed. If you want it and I can find time to mail it, pm me your addy.

The adapter welded onto the BOV? And awesome, much appreciated, I'll send you a PM now.

No, I couldn't recirc that bov due to the horn on it. These are just to mount the bov to the pipe. I ended up using a bypass valve that you can see in the pics off the cold side with a check valve attached by a radiator hose. It works, so far. Let me take a pic of it, i'll be right back.

Ahh I get it now, I thought you could unscrew the horn and then put that piece on to allow the ability to recirculate the BOV. My BOV looks just like yours, but doesn't have a horn on it, just a hole.

I found this piece on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=380104435489

Is that like the same piece you have, or can I somehow attach this to my BOV? I can find something to weld to the intake pipe to connect the two, but I can't recirculate my BOV right now because there is just a hole, nothing to connect hose to.

Sorry for the thread de-rail, if anyone wants to PM me, feel free.

The horn should just unscrew and leave some threads you could use for recirculating.

It does, I kind of wanted to use the bpv anyway and didn't want to mess with threading the steel and trying to make it work with the aluminum bov.

Spyder- if you want to, you could use a check valve on your bov instead of recirc? Either way, if you still want it, it's yours.

Just a note: I am using that same fleabay BOV. Let me tell you, you will have to drill and tap the holes and bung or it will shoot off. Ask me how I know... I don't know if I mounted it right but I didn't really see any other way...

Hmm, now that I went out and took a look at it, I've got a SSQV AVO blow off valve. I bought it this way and it needs to be recirculated. I don't know if it came with I horn (I doubt it), so I don't think there is any threads in the hole. It's a nice BOV, but I need to recirculate it so I'm not bogging inbetween shifts and almost stalling out at stoplights. How does a check valve work and how would I even hook that up when there is nothing protruding from the hole?

I'm not a pro with bov's but I thought the sequential ones had a check valve built in?

So because the MAF was so close to the turbo inlet, it caused the weird idle's and what not? Im turboing my miata next month after I get out of school and just want to make sure I space them far enough so I dont get the problem you had

Not so much just sitting idling, it was almost stalling when coming off rev. Like in normal city driving when approaching a stop light and you depress the clutch, the revs would drop and couldn't stabilize at 1k. It would drop to 500rpm and try to steady itself but could not.

Mass air flow sensors can read airflow both ways and mine was so close to the inlet I think it was picking up flow from the compressor wheel when the throttle body suddenly slammed shut. It seemed to be worse if I depressed the clutch above 2k rpms.

All is fine now that I added that little 45* bend.

Ok, all this talk of bov's got me curious to try and mount this sucker. With a lot of spring cutting and a bit of luck, I got it to work great vta!

It's really not that loud and looks alot better then that bpv in the engine bay.

That check valve was the cause of my surging, it's just too small a hole to vent all that boost!:drool:

I finally reinstalled the bumper too, don't mind the crooked pics, I've been drinking. :friday:

Looks great, what custom work did you have to do to make the new BOV fit? And what's the 3rd pic?

It's the lowes check valve that I just returned. That was the hole that all the pressure had to escape from and due to it's restrictive size, I was getting all sorts of surging.

With the bov, I was experiencing the same surging at first until I realized the stock spring was way to strong for the vac on my motor at idle. I had to cut a good inch off of it to get rid of the surge. Do a half a coil at a time and retest it until the surging goes away. When it's barely noticable, cut about a 1/4 coil off. If you cut too much and the idle gets jumpy, add a washer or two and retest.

The only issue I've yet to deal with is the rich condition nearing 0 vac/boost, but I was experiencing that with the bpv/check valve too. Thinking a o2 clamp will help out big time with that.

Honestly I don't see a problem running vta with the NB maf.

Added a fancy blue chrome crankcase breather too. bling bling! ;)

Sorry to revive this a month later, but what made you go with 2.25" and not 2.5"? Curious as I'm looking at upgrade options.

Did some research and that seemed to be the most common. Plus I think its easier to run the smaller piping behind the headlight.