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Old 01-06-2013, 03:36 PM   #1
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Question Fed up with loose studs, help me decide on new manifold/turbo

So, I've got my turbo loose for the 500th time now. BEGI log manifold, GT2560R, time-serts in the manifold threads, your inco studs, rebond, stage8, the works.

Couple of sessions and the lower stud backs out. Basically I thing there is not enough beef in the manifold. Especially after all the harassment it has seen.

A new log from BEGI would be the drop in cure, but close to $500 doesn't make it a no brainer. Still the GT2560 and a log and studs.

I'm kinde done with this kit now. Tempted to go for the AbsurdFlow kit that is on sale now, but the GT30xx is not for me. The v-bands are win.

The new EFRs sound like heaven, but the TSE kit doesn't ship yet and kinda curious about using studs. Proper bracing will be critical.

So, long story short; what would _you_ do and what options did I miss other than the BEGI v-band kit?
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Old 01-06-2013, 04:59 PM   #2
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Do you have a DP brace? I've heard that's a small step up from "just" inconel studs.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:03 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Do you have a DP brace? I've heard that's a small step up from "just" inconel studs.
Yes, to the bell housing.
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Old 01-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #4
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Can just a manifold make a difference? I have ARTech long runner manifold with Inconel stuff. have not had any problems at track. Although I usually run max 15 laps per run....
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:30 AM   #5
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im curious how its possible to back out the stud with a stage 8 and resbond.. i feel like your doing it wrong..
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:43 AM   #6
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im curious how its possible to back out the stud with a stage 8 and resbond.. i feel like your doing it wrong..
I doubt the helicoil is helping anything.
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Old 01-07-2013, 12:53 AM   #7
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as long as its not backing out with the stud. the stage 8s should keep it from loosening out.

how about safety wire?
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:43 AM   #8
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I doubt the helicoil is helping anything.
Time-sert not helicoil. Big diff.
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Old 01-07-2013, 03:44 AM   #9
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May need to find 2nd hand BEGI log with 8mm so I can redrill to 10 and have it 'brand new'.
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:34 AM   #10
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Mounting depth 14mm? I had the TSE Inco kit back out too, but found it was due to lack of mounting depth (even with resbond). Drilled, tapped, and time-serted manifold for proper stud depth and never had an issue after. Were you able to thread the stud in all the way down to the shank? Here's where my fail started... notice stud shank/collor not threaded to base of manifold


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Old 01-08-2013, 04:03 PM   #11
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I think the depth is fine 'on the outside' - but on the inside not all threads are engaged, thus not holding well... they see hot air instead. This is impossible to fix on a cast manifold like mine, other than replacing it.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:51 PM   #12
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Is it doing something like A where the shoulder doesn't bottom,
B where the shoulder bottoms but the stud is too short,
or are you in situation C where both the stud & manifold just don't have enough threads?

I think GeneSplicer on the right track with his suggestion.

A should be easy to fix, just shorten the stud a little. B you'd need longer studs to engage more threads. C I dunno, I've never really heard of it being a problem unless you're using a super esoteric stud/manifold combination.


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Old 01-09-2013, 02:59 AM   #13
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From memory: not enough threads in the manifold (little meat but open hole) so it bottoms out but a number of threads on the engine side of the studs touch air.
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spookyfish View Post
From memory: not enough threads in the manifold (little meat but open hole) so it bottoms out but a number of threads on the engine side of the studs touch air.
Are there enough threads exposed on the engine-side where the studs are in free-air to get a nut on, resbond it, and secure it with something like these: Flyin' Miata : Turbochargers : Parts and upgrades : Stage 8 locking turbo hardware (10mm)
It seems like a manual way to get more threads in your manifold without having to buy a new one. No idea if this would work, but hey, it's an idea.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #15
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^ he's tried them - in OP's first line... plus they come with the TSE kit
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
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^ he's tried them - in OP's first line... plus they come with the TSE kit
I think just on the nuts for the top side of the studs. If they poke through enough on the back end I was thinking maybe he could fit them on there too.

With locking hardware on both sides and resbond, the studs would have to somehow loosen themselves from the nuts on the top and bottom and the manifold. This is all speculation, there's probably not enough room on the back side of the manifold for nuts anyways (maybe half-size nuts?).
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJP0tato View Post
I think just on the nuts for the top side of the studs. If they poke through enough on the back end I was thinking maybe he could fit them on there too.

With locking hardware on both sides and resbond, the studs would have to somehow loosen themselves from the nuts on the top and bottom and the manifold. This is all speculation, there's probably not enough room on the back side of the manifold for nuts anyways (maybe half-size nuts?).
If I understand how the FM manifold that spooky has works, those nuts would have to be inside the manifold since his studs poke out into the inside of the manifold.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:57 PM   #18
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We already have a thread for this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...warning-35874/
Start posting there or I'm going to start banning you troglodyte, mouth-breathing neckbeards.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
We already have a thread for this.
https://www.miataturbo.net/prefabbed...warning-35874/
Start posting there or I'm going to start banning you troglodyte, mouth-breathing neckbeards.
That thread doesn't shop up in new posts or does it?



So, one stud failed - well, the time-sert failed and that allowed the stud to move out. The other three are fine and were still tights. I'm going to remove the time-sert and insert a new one, reseat the studs, drill through manifold and studs and insert dowel pins to lock them in place.
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