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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Finally got a chance to thoroughly test my 2-3 shift fix

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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Default Finally got a chance to thoroughly test my 2-3 shift fix

I have original worn OEM motor mounts and a stock 5 speed tranny with no bracing. Only mod is 60 dollar ebay brace.

At 17 psi, the 2-3 shift is rock solid and smooth. I tested it a bunch of times during the dry weather today. Not even close to a missed shift. It was like it was stock again.

It works.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:20 AM
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Awesome. Is this the one you bought?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engin...spagenameZWDVW

Still need to meet up one of these days. You gonna be around this weekend?
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:57 AM
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post a pic of it installed!
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:09 AM
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yeah i gotta see this.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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I have MS mounts and I never miss that shift either
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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I have MS mounts front and rear but still miss the shift occasionally.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
I have MS mounts front and rear but still miss the shift occasionally.
I/O error?
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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I have stock mounts and never miss the shift
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by jayc72
I/O error?
that's funnier than I thought :gay:

I had a stock mount tore in half and didn't miss a shift.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian
Awesome. Is this the one you bought?: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Engin...spagenameZWDVW

Still need to meet up one of these days. You gonna be around this weekend?
Yeah that's it. I admit it is not a perfect fit. I ended up having to install it backwards and drill out one of the holes to a wider diameter with the piston part extended slightly.

Here is a pic of it and a pic of it showing the DP clearing the engine bay a little better.

This is still the old turbo (I had trouble getting another one of those autometer threaded nipples and I still have to ceramic coat the DP) and the JGS manifold. The DP is stainless and the flange attached to the turbo is iron. I really should have the DP ceramic coated one of these days.

Old Jan 9, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Is that a pressurized gas shock?
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 05:08 PM
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No, it's much simpler- a hollow tube with a teflon spacer and rubber dampeners mounted on the rod. It can be adjusted with the threaded end cap.

How did you make a 57 trim work on a 1.6? That is an insanely large turbo, even for a 1.8.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 06:16 PM
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He's actually running a 2.0L FE3
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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Ah lucky basterd probably has a TII tranny as well, there go all the shifting problems.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Lucky? It didn't magically appear in there. No R trans yet. That'll go in with the 2.2L FE.
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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Is there rubber in that tube?
How does it handle the radiated heat from turbine housing and DP?

hrk
Old Jan 9, 2007 | 11:30 PM
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There is rubber, but it is an aluminum tube (highly conductive) and the manifold is not actually that hot thanks to the ceramic coat. No worse than a N/A car.
Old Jan 10, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by beerslurpy
No, it's much simpler- a hollow tube with a teflon spacer and rubber dampeners mounted on the rod. It can be adjusted with the threaded end cap.

How did you make a 57 trim work on a 1.6? That is an insanely large turbo, even for a 1.8.

hardly insanely large. The 57 trim has been known to act just like the old 50 trim....its not really all that laggy on a 1.8L, and wouldnt even be too bad on a 1.6L w/ a .48 turbine.
Old Jan 10, 2007 | 09:58 AM
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I don't think of aluminum as being highly conductive compared to other metals.

Yeah, the 57trim is just bigger than what most stick on a Miata. It just moves the power band up in the rpm range- but it's still there. With the restrictive internal gate, full cat, resonator and big muffler I'm still getting 12psi at 4200. And I think I could move that down another 200 rpm with some tuning.
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