Finding the right junkyard turbo
 

I'm probably going junkyarding this weekend, nothing better to do really, and I might look for some injectors while I'm at it.

Anyway, there are usually 6-8 Audi/Volvo/Saab cars w/ turbos at the local yard... if I were to pull one, which would be best? Also seen turbos left on a lot of chrysler products. I want an oil cooled only turbo, no need to mess w/ water lines if I don't have to, right?

Not only that but, will my OBX T3/T4 manifold work on any of the turbos that are on those cars?

I'm skeptic if I want to finish my build w/ this big ass turbo. It's a .63 A/R and I've only got a 2 1/2" DP. In another thread I started, guys w/ similar were saying 10psi isn't until after 4,000 RPM, which is think is a bit laggy. I'm wanting to keep costs down as far as possible. I can get turbos for $55 at the junkyard.... what will make 10psi sooner and maintain good power to 6,000 RPM?

Advice? Suggestions?

I might add that I'm only asking this question because I know a lot of people here have sourced parts for their DIY builds off other cars, like Volvo turbos and what not.

Thanks for any help fellas.

Is it a stage 1 .63 turbine? If so, I think you'd be ok. That said, you want a ford t3 turbo with the big compressor (60trim with the 48 stage 1 turbine) from the mustang, earlier tbird and xr4ti if you downsize. And keep in mind 10psi on one turbo isn't necessarily 10psi on another turbo.

Avoid the Volvo units. They are a .63 turbine with a 45 trim compressor. Too big on one side and too small on the other. The Saab's use a T3, .48 turbine 50 trim compressor. Much better. Not sure about the Chryslers or Fords. I know some of the Fords have 60 trims or even S60's. I think the Audi's use the KKK turbos, which won't mate to the T3 flange.
--Alex

+1 on alex's post. i got one of a saab 900 i think it's 89. it's a t3 and it's pretty decent size. not too small or too big. should boost about 2.5k. the only draw to it is that they're mostly internally wastegated, so you need to be careful which way your manifold points the turbo and then watch for the actuator to make sure it will not hit the block/head. if they're anything like here, once you take it out, you can't return it. so plan ahead.
IMO, what i did was go and look at several ones on fri afternoon, then come home and look at the manifold and then go back sat morning (with plenty or PB blaster) and go to town. also, take plenty of pics on fri so you have an idea of what came out of what.

Pretty much any of the late 80's-early 90's Saab T3's will work, just make sure it is a standard t3 footprint and not one of the ones with curved sides.

early to mid 90's volvo uses garret turbos t3 i am using one now on my 90 miata remote mount turbo. it's all the way in the back of my car and i hit the waist gat 8 lbs at 3k rpm and they are pretty ez to get off at the yard

Yes, the Volvo's are T3's. But the turbine is to big and the flange is a bit different than a standard T3. Not a big deal if you take the mani and use the flange too, or if you have a mill in the shop. But overall, not worth the trouble.
--Alex

The ol' Chrysler turbos (assuming you mean the entire lineup from the 80s which was available with a turbo) are slightly larger than the Volvo/Saab ones. I think the only difference between the Swedish turbos are the A/R and trim though; they look to be the same size and practically interchangeable otherwise.

Wiki says the majority of Chrysler turbos were Mitsu pieces..I'm assuming roughly 14B 13C or whatever sized. Here's a credible source instead of further assumptions:
Turbocharger Guide... Stock to Common Upgrades - TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more!

and

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_turbo.html

SVO t3 deal
 

this is a good price so far on a junk yard turbo- providing it's in good condition

ebay: Garret turbocharger: svo mustang turbo fords turbocharger

http://i.ebayimg.com/02/!BP(5DY!!mk~...+jNGsg~~_2.JPG

AlexO35 is correct on the Audi turbos. They are the KKK series turbos and not remotely close to a T3 or T2 for that matter... I have an '01 Audi A4 to back up this claim BTW.

get a boost controller and it'll up your boost before 4000rpm

I have a manual boost controller that will be installed.

My junkyard charges $55 for a turbo and figuring time/travel, I'm spending roughly $75 total.

Shipping on that ebay turbo is $40 alone.

...and wtf, my T04E is a .63 A/R. I thought the turbos on the SVO/T-Coupe were smaller? I would like to have that downpipe elbow though.

A Saab 9000 FPT has a Garret T25 with .48 A/R compressor and a 10psi internal wastegate. (LPT has 6psi I think) Only problem is the not so common 3 bolt turbine outlet flange. If you want pics

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t23858/

It was $20 when I posted that. AR on the turbine has less impact that the fact that it is still stage 1 turbine and still has a t3 compressor - the preferred compressor for a t3 IMO.

I dont think a 3 bolt turbine flange is that rare. Shouldnt be too hard to find a flange and weld up your own downpipe or have one made, which I'm assuming if you're getting a junkyard turbo, you're prepared (if not planning) to do anyways.

IMO the only way anyone should consider a KKK KO3 from a 1.8T VW/Audi is if they are curious, have something bigger planned and are using it as a stopgap, and/or are getting it for free. The KO3 is a tiny joke turbo.

For those still considering it, try to get one from 00-05 or so. The 98s and IIRC some of the 99s didnt have a factory heat shield, so the oil lines right next to the turbo would cook right past "well done" and the oil feeding into the turbo would coke up and...well the turbo ends up killing itself.

My mom had a 98. I was even in the car when it failed :eek5:

there is also the pipefather's setup.. using a 13g mitsu turbo, td04l from a subaru wrx.

seemed to be a perfect match for our engines. i'm using the same one.

Those stock WRX (2L TD04L turbos)turbos are pretty cheap if you go down to a local Subie tuner shop and ask to get a take-off from a modified car. They do use a different flange from the DSM or Chrysler flanges, some sort of triangular 3 bolt flange deal. You can get the flanges off eBay or find someone's uppipe to hack it off of.

I used to know how the mitsu naming scheme worked, TD04/5/6 is exhaust housing, but L and H mean different stuff. I think L is left hand, but I might be confusing with IHI turbos.

Some of the SVO/Merkur T3's had a .48 and some a .63 turbine. And that elbow wouldn't even work on your car unless you are running your exhaust through the hood.

td04 13t, not a 13g.