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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 08-15-2016, 12:50 AM   #1
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Default First car I ever worked on? Why not allofit!

I'd talk about how I'm a noob but this thread isn't about that, so I'll just get down to it.

I have: Stock '90 NA6

I want: 1.8 swap, built, bored, boosted. Hp goal: ~350 with room to grow

I found a '97 NA8 in a junkyard that some d00d apparently used for dorifto (worldwide/supreme/gimcrack stickers) and it ended up stacked on an Odyssey in south Philly. When I got the car for $700, it started immediately in my garage, found idle, happily revved. It had no doors, top, front fenders, bumper, steering wheel, or radiator. Immediately viewable were Racingbeat shocks and sway bars. The engine looked really clean, too. I got to work taking everything I could from the car in the 4 days that I had the garage available (borrowed). Out came: engine, transmission, Flyin' Miata Happy Meal (!), PPF, driveshaft, diff, rear axles, shocks, sway bars, ECU, fuel pump, some electric doodads, clutch cylinders, headlights, and a few other parts. Found a garage for rent up the block, score! Removed as much as I could from the block while it was on the dolly, then it was up onto the stand.

Since I'm learning this as I go along, I figured it'd be better to post this thread sooner than later so I don't go too far off course. The build diaries and other threads on this site have been instrumental in learnin' me some cars, so while I search and research for solutions, I'll defer to this thread instead of making more, unless I have to.

Currently, I have the block stripped as much as I can get it (need to figure out how to remove oil cooler threaded pipe without ruining the threads). I took out the cams and lifters yesterday, need to find something to help get the springs and valves out. Tomorrow, I'll find a machine shop for the first phase of the build: boring the block for the new pistons, maybe porting the head - what I've taken away is that more breathing room is good for turbos, but not too much or else you lose the "push back" that creates pressure for b00st. This takes me to the next part...parts.

Here's my parts wishlist so far. Excuse the links, they're there to help me stay somewhat organized. This is pretty much me just going through lists and build threads and copying what I'm seeing, learning what stuff does, and applying it (hopefully). The first numbers are what I'm ordering them in by priority and timeline of when I'd get them. Any critiques and input are welcome.


1 Megasquirt PNPGen2 $799 3
2 1.8 Conversion Kit $140 Acquired
4 Turbo: BW EFR6758 or 7163 $1900 (turbo only) TSE Kit
5 Shim under bucket lifters $220
5 Valve Spring Kit $330
5 Supertech Valves Exhaust $180 Intake $138
5 Supertech Valve Seals $12
2 ARP Studs $124 Head / $102 Main
2 Manley H Beams $359
2 Wiseco Pistons 8.5:1 83.5mm $465Fab9 accidentally sent me 10.5:1, but I'm gonna stick with them anyway for lower end. Acquired
2 ACL Bearings: $122
2 949 Coolant Reroute $329
4 Oil Pump $299
5 SuperMiata Damper $354
2 Cometic gaskets $90 (ordered)
1 Innovate Wideband w/gauge $370
3 Fuel Rail?
3 Deautshwerks DW200 $89 Hardwire Install Kit DW300? (ordered)
3 Injector Dynamics Injectors: 1000cc $515 =
3 FUELAB 515 FPR $139
2 FM Happy Meal - Level 2 Clutch $395
3 Mishimoto Radiator $240 Hose Kit
4 Intercooler kit $200 Need moar
5 Oil Cooler?
4 3” Exhaust/High Flow Cats
1.8 driveshaft, 1.8 rear, 1.8 axles
2 Water Pump $39
2 6 Speed Transmission $800 Ordered Acquired
5 Fidanza Cam Gears $240

Be gentle.

Edits: Going to be looking for '99 Head

Last edited by Philly Miata; 08-26-2016 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 08-15-2016, 01:03 AM   #2
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Get an MS3 variant.

You are going to want more than a DW200 to for a 6758 or 7163

Skip the blanket

Spend more than $200 on a quality intercooler+piping.

Don't build an NA8 head. Spend a bit more to get a 99-05 head

Don't see a manifold listed there. Get a TSE manifold+downpipe, and then their intercooler setup whenever it comes out.

Both those turbo's will blow a 6 speed. Either plan $3-$5K to pay someone for a transmission solution, or build one yourself.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:07 AM   #3
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TSI are worse than useless. Pressurizing the engine bay defeats the cooling system.
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Old 08-15-2016, 07:37 AM   #4
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MS3 as said. Also I would not spend a penny in the head. You can make 400+whp on a stock 99+ head. I would get a VVT head, leave it stock. Get a flat top intake manifold. EFR 6758 as the turbo mated to a TSE manifold and down pipe.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:30 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aidandj View Post
Get an MS3 variant.

You are going to want more than a DW200 to for a 6758 or 7163

Skip the blanket

Spend more than $200 on a quality intercooler+piping.

Don't build an NA8 head. Spend a bit more to get a 99-05 head

Don't see a manifold listed there. Get a TSE manifold+downpipe, and then their intercooler setup whenever it comes out.

Both those turbo's will blow a 6 speed. Either plan $3-$5K to pay someone for a transmission solution, or build one yourself.
Will look again at heads today. I did forget to put on the mani, i had been looking at TSE's kit, but I'm also wondering about cheaper methods of getting the same system through multiple sources, or is that just making more unnecessary work? From what I've read, the 6 speeds can handle the power, but building one myself sounds interesting from curiosity, are there reliable sources of parts and information for a nonprofessional to do such a thing? I'll find them if so.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:33 AM   #6
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TSI are worse than useless. Pressurizing the engine bay defeats the cooling system.
So they make it harder for air to get in to the engine? Why the hell are they selling them then?
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:35 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
MS3 as said. Also I would not spend a penny in the head. You can make 400+whp on a stock 99+ head. I would get a VVT head, leave it stock. Get a flat top intake manifold. EFR 6758 as the turbo mated to a TSE manifold and down pipe.
Alright, looks like I can't get away without VVT.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly Miata View Post
So they make it harder for air to get in to the engine? Why the hell are they selling them then?
TSI's put high pressure air in the engine bay. You want low pressure air in the engine bay to have a high differential across the radiator. The better method is to move the intake pre radiator so it's high pressure.

TSI's are sold because people think they are cool looking and race inspired.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly Miata View Post
So they make it harder for air to get in to the engine? Why the hell are they selling them then?
Because ricers don't know any better, and someone can make a buck off that ignorance. Someone thought they looked cool. Hell, I was considering them before I learned better.

TSI let air in to the engine compartment that doesn't have to go through the radiator. Because it slightly pressurizes the engine bay (relative to no TSI), there's less air flowing through the radiator. Radiators are what cools an engine, not air flowing past the block.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:47 AM   #10
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Short of you building your own manifold and exhaust. Nothing on the market will be cheaper or better then the TSE setup.

VVT is not needed, but is a very nice thing to have. Helps out mid range a ton. I would take a stock VVT head over a 94-97 head with all the head parts you want to spend money on.

6 speed will probably handle 350whp on the street, but I would plan on having a spare one laying around. It should be considered a consumable item at those power levels. Its not worth the cost going inside a 6 speed and no one makes stronger gears or anything for it.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:56 AM   #11
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I guess I don't have to quote everyone in my replies. I feel from the explanation about the TSIs, it does make sense. What solution does one have for IC in front of the radiator if the intercoolers I'm seeing rated to this HP are covering up a large part of the radiator? Or does enough air get around?

TSE's kit seems to be universally shown as the best on here, in other threads I've seen people talking about a wait for them? I have plenty of time, but how long is the line to get one of these kits? Thanks guys
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:57 AM   #12
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Don't open the motor right now, just put it in stock. Doing everything at once is a big undertaking. People bite off more than they can chew all the time, the build loses momentum, never gets running, and eventually gets parted out. Break it down into steps, you'll be much happier and more likely to actually finish the car if downtime is kept to a minimum.

Install the stock motor and get it running. Get the megasquirt and get the car running. Install injectors and retune the car. Get a turbo kit and run the car at low boost for a while. Source another motor and build it, then when it's ready swap motors and sell your old one. If you manage it right you'll never be off the road for more than a weekend.
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Old 08-15-2016, 08:59 AM   #13
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I'm seeing '99 heads on ebay for about $400. That doesn't seem too bad. Is it wise to change out sprints and valves when buying a used head, or wait to see how the car runs after dropping it in?
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:09 AM   #14
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I can identity with that ^^^^ statement 100% I have the ability to fab a lot of parts, and this was a 17 month project for me. Because full time job. I highly recommend not doing it all at once. Maybe build the motor and install it for now. That will give you a good head start, and insight to the entire project. Also minimum investment if life happens and you can't finish it.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:14 AM   #15
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Pictures so far
Window switches anyone?



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Old 08-15-2016, 09:20 AM   #16
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I'm already in the motor lol
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:22 AM   #17
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I'm lost, is that the 1.6 engine, or your 1.8 to swap in?
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:50 AM   #18
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That's the 1.8 to swap in. Also, how the hell do I upload these pictures in a smaller size?
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Old 08-19-2016, 03:45 PM   #19
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I got a thing today

99 6 Speed





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