I wonder what Savington has to say about a .060" overbore...

The common consensus here is that stock pistons are good to ~300rwhp. Forged pistons are (likely) unnecessary for your stated goal, unless my memory is playing tricks on me.

Stock pistons wouldnt throw some reliability out the window??

I can't find the thread, but some respected people here were actually claiming the inverse IIRC - i.e., forged pistons are actually inferior to cast pistons for longevity and reliability. I'd recommend you search on it.

Maybe you can cut a deal. He helps you with the tuning and you guys both learn MS? Win-win.

I found some stuff on a k20 honda forum saying what you just stated, looks like its cast pistons for me. What do I owe you guys for saving me all this money and time? hah.

But yep, sounds like a good deal to me.
Just shot a text to my local machine shop owner asking about a price on checking my head and block to see what the compression problem in cylinder four is. Once he replies its of to the races!

Who said that?

Not all miatas fall short of the 300whp mark on stock motors. 90% of the users on this forum put their miatas together for road racing or auto x or something of that nature where spool is paramount. If you run a bigger turbo with a larger A/R and a good flowing tubular manifold i would venture to say you could prolly keep a stock short block alive at 350whp for a good while. I speculate that with e85 and a good set of cams in a 99 head you might could crack 400whp with a stock shortblock, but at that point rods are only 300$ and stock pistons would hold up fine with e85.

Theres no way the electrode could score the cylinder wall so deep that 20 over wouldn't clean it up, and if its that bad just get another stock motor.

MSPNP.



If I was craking open the motor to build it, as it seems you are planning to, I wouldn't skip the rods/forged pistons.

How many transmissions total have been in your car? I know of at least 2.

If he going to build a bottom end, there is no reason not to spend a little bit more and get a transmission that will probably last him as long as the motor.

Well guys, i may do some little stuff to the head, but if i dont need to touch the block im not going to. my car will be a daily (except during the winter). So is I am going to get the FM turbo kit without electronics, some 550ish injectors, megasquirt, stage 2 ky clutch, and like a said maybe a little head work.

I was referring to the fuel and spark tables that are published on the MSPNP website as being a safe starting point for self tuning. I wasn't recommending the MSPNP. That said, I'm pretty happy with mine.

I am, however, delighted by my apparent promotion to "minion."

Back on point . . . .

I think this is a good idea. It should be just about perfect for you.

Looks like I will be doing pistons after all. I took the head off and this is what I got. The walls are in suprisingly good shape though!

Fix engine, buy megasquirt, buy my setup for sale and totally win.

JB weld it and move on.

now you know how much clearance you have above top of piston

Looks like you had some bad detonation, i dont think the electrode did that. The same detonation that broke your piston ate your electrode off. I would still just go buy a stock 1.8 shortblock or even longblock. If you live in the Tampa area i know a guy selling a 99 motor with everything on it for stupid cheap, he wont ship it though.

You got 90 psi of compression out of that? :giggle:

whats he asking,i live in wpb just got a 90 miata that the crank keyway might be getting ready to go on, possibly make a drive for a good priced replacement : )