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Old 02-08-2012, 06:34 AM   #21
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Removing it has been covered in length. 33mm freeze plug I think (could be wrong, search), and it's held in by two bolts, sealed with an o-ring.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TorqueZombie View Post
So is it a horrible idea to not want the hot water from the turbo going into the motor? With the Begi spacer can I route it to not put hot water into the motor?
No, it is not a horrible idea. But, with the speed at which the water travels, mixes and combines(as long as your system is in good shape), most of the water in your system is already warm and the little bit of extra heat is quickly dispersed into the massive amount of cooler water from the radiator entering with it at the pump inlet.
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:20 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Removing it has been covered in length. 33mm freeze plug I think (could be wrong, search), and it's held in by two bolts, sealed with an o-ring.
i was told 30mm by planet miata
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:49 AM   #24
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also, do you have to use the freeze plug?
can't you just use a gasket and the block off plate?
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by phillyb View Post
also, do you have to use the freeze plug?
can't you just use a gasket and the block off plate?
You could, but the block off plate will need to be thick enough so that it will not flex and will need to be perfectly flat on the head without the gasket added.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:40 PM   #26
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it's the block off plate from begi...i'll go talk to the builder later.
i need some sort of plug for my oil pump as well anyway
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:56 PM   #27
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why not just get the freeze plug for a protege... then you dont need the plate
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:12 PM   #28
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have a pn?
i need to order something else from mazda as well...might as well get them both
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:51 AM   #29
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The freeze plug is thirty cents from o'rileys.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:00 PM   #30
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I'm planning on installing the M-tuned coolant reroute and deleting the front water neck by fitting a freeze plug and block off plate in its place. I'm also deleting the coolant hoses that go from the oil filter to the stock throttle body and from the stock throttle to the front water neck because I'm running ITBs that have no coolant provisions.

Instead of trying to splice a bunch of Mazda hoses together to accomplish this, I would prefer to get a custom length of rubber coolant hose so that it is continuous from the oil filter cooler outlet to the mixing manifold inlet. Can anybody verify what size hose (I.D.) I should use? Is it 8mm all the way?
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:51 PM   #31
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I believe I used 5/16 hose the whole way.
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:16 PM   #32
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Thanks Leafy. I guess the trick is to route it in such a way that it doesn't contact the alternator, water pump, A/C or timing belt(s) and pulley(s).
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:08 PM   #33
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And if I wanted to delete the small diameter coolant hoses that run from the back of the head to the oil/water heat exchanger sandwich plate and to the water pump inlet/ mixing manifold, is that OK? Or are those small lines necessary to promote faster warmup with the M-tuned coolant reroute thermostat location? Just trying to eliminate potential failure points and need to decide whether I should plug those holes now with the engine out or just run the small coolant hoses and hope they don't fail on me.
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Old 07-24-2014, 07:09 PM   #34
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You can delete them. I always do. Pics in my build threads.

The M-tuned thermostat should have a small bleed hole in it that ensures it is seeing fresh coolant temperature (i.e., no stagnant/cold coolant). During initial warmup, most coolant takes the path through the heater core and into the mixing manifold on the exhaust side of the engine.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:30 PM   #35
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Thanks man. So JB Weld and 1.6 rubber cap for the fitting on the back of the head and pipe fitting on the mixing manifold. Do you recall offhand if that was 1/8 NPT? Looks too small to be 1/4 NPT but what do I know.

Also, did you remove the stock oil/water cooler or did you leave it and simply add another sandwich adapter for your air/oil cooler?
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:59 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
Thanks man. So JB Weld and 1.6 rubber cap for the fitting on the back of the head and pipe fitting on the mixing manifold. Do you recall offhand if that was 1/8 NPT? Looks too small to be 1/4 NPT but what do I know.

Also, did you remove the stock oil/water cooler or did you leave it and simply add another sandwich adapter for your air/oil cooler?
The standard sandwich adapters (Mocal makes it, I think?) don't fit without the stock oil/water cooler, because the outlet fittings want to be in the same space as some of the ridges on the block. It's light, just use it as a spacer.

--Ian
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:14 PM   #37
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Trackspeed has a nice clean kit for $20

Trackspeed Engineering



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Front waterneck removal question (water lines)-coolantfreezeplug.jpg  
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Old 07-25-2014, 06:46 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
Thanks man. So JB Weld and 1.6 rubber cap for the fitting on the back of the head and pipe fitting on the mixing manifold. Do you recall offhand if that was 1/8 NPT? Looks too small to be 1/4 NPT but what do I know.

Also, did you remove the stock oil/water cooler or did you leave it and simply add another sandwich adapter for your air/oil cooler?
I JB Welded a hex set screw into the water fitting on the back of the head and then capped. The mixing manifold plug was indeed 1/8NPT.

I removed the stock oil/water cooler, but you can leave it in place as a spacer like a previous poster mentioned. If you do remove it, then you'll either need to source another spacer (you could use a sensor port sandwich adapter as a spacer) or get the shorter threaded tube from the 1.6 and then figure out how to avoid the block webbing. The cheap thermostatic adapters with the bimetal coils instead of wax-plug pistons actually work pretty well for this because they are a much thicker. Thermostatic adapters with fittings that face outward at a 45 degree angle (Greddy) also help avoid the webs.

Most retain the oil/water cooler and use the well-proven Mocal thermostatic adapter. You can't go wrong with that. I cheaped out with a Haynes and haven't had any problems. YMMV. Look for "thermostatic sandwich adapter" on Amazon and there will be a lot of options. Miata oil filter thread is 20mm.
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:03 PM   #39
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Here's what I did.


Front thermostat housing removed, Dorman freeze plug installed, Trackspeed Engineering front coolant block off plate installed with stock bolts shortened and blue (medium strength) Loctite.


Water outlet for small oil cooler lines plugged with 1/4-20 set screw and JB Weld. This was a bit tricky as I didn't let the JB Weld set up enough before inserting the set screw, which meant any JB Weld that I packed in afterwards wanted to run out the hole. So when the first batch set up I rotated the engine on the stand 90 so the fitting was pointing straight up, I mixed up another batch and filled the rest of the hole. Covered with rubber plug (Mazda p/n FEA7-13-104) for belts and suspenders approach.


Stock oil cooler lines deleted. Capped holes with rubber plugs (p/n FEA7-13-104) to keep foreign debris out of the stock oil cooler in case I ever want to go back. Overkill but very tidy.


Removed elbow in mixing manifold with vise grip pliers. Drilled and tapped for 1/8NPT plug. I used the same Earl's aluminum plug as my fuel pressure gauge adapter. Coated plug with Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket No. 3 since that is what Jamestown Distributors recommends for all NPT fittings.

How to Properly seal Fuel Fittings and Fuel Lines
Attached Thumbnails
Front waterneck removal question (water lines)-14828295365_041f865594_b.jpg   Front waterneck removal question (water lines)-14825930474_4ba44db200_b.jpg   Front waterneck removal question (water lines)-14825929364_3556f886c9_b.jpg   Front waterneck removal question (water lines)-14827923432_2421589045_b.jpg  
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:38 PM   #40
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Nice and clean. Cool intake manifold.
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