Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1337831)
the thing is though, it's all relative and depends entirely on your goals and plans, and you can formulate those based on a lot of research and looking at what others have done.
if you did research, great. You ask how to build an engine, pat will say rods only, others will say if you're in there its crazy not to do pistons, others will say pump and damper is mandatory, and so on and so forth. Then there comes the budget question: some are poor/broke, and want to just hit their power goal for absolutely the lowest price possible. Others see the benefit of quality parts and don't want to replace them later, and get the best. Others yet are somewhere in the middle. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1337619)
try again
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465532889 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1465532889 |
Originally Posted by nashvill
(Post 1337967)
MiataMan00 keep the thread updated with your choices.
I am in the same boat with you(1.8 VVT engine thou). I have messing around with Z-engineering supercharger(total s##t) bought used- never again. I did buy a new(56kmiles) engine and 6spd yesterday for build. I have MS3 and RX8 injectors already (will keep those for the new build). Also doing the research to take the right path. I will limit myself at the moment with the injectors(will keep the RX8 ones). As I am tracking my car, looks like its safer to get the new rods. |
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1337975)
Wants to build a 3-5 thousand dollar turbo/ engine combo. Doesn't want to spend 400 on injectors that could possibly save the engines life.
How smart does that sound when you read that out loud? |
Originally Posted by MiataMan00
(Post 1338002)
My car is a VVT 1.8 also. I already have 640cc flow force injectors, MS Labs MS3, Can box, GM IAT sensor, and innovate wideband. My car came with a 6spd and a lsd.
|
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1337769)
I might be biased, but here's how I see it:
$1700 + cost of high-quality oil/water lines ($290 from FM) + cost of Inconel studs ($99 for ours, FM's kit is incomplete) + cost of EBC valve (~$50) + cost of OEM-quality bypass valve ($150 from FM) + fittings to install said bypass valve ($??) + turbo inlet/outlet adapters (~$100) + likely boost creep at low power levels unless you spend time/money porting the wastegate (and there's still no guarantee it won't creep) = ~$2400, lots more assembly and fiddling, and less ultimate potential without another turbo upgrade later on... or... $3100, which includes the Inconel studs, the high-quality oil/coolant lines, the Inconel studs, the EBC valve, the OEM-quality bypass valve that's already installed, no need for turbo adapters, no boost creep, at all, ever, plus better response, more power, and room to grow easily to your max power goal of 300whp (and an upgrade path to 400+whp should you want that later). Our stuff is admittedly more expensive. It's more expensive because it's better, IMO. :party: THIS. I read a lot and decided this was the best route after some very good advice from people who know their shit. |
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