allofit

That is pretty quick der_vierte!

For comparison I logged the same thing tonight on a flat road, 350ft above sea level, 3rd gear, 6speed, 3.6 gears:
40-80 in 4.29 seconds with just me in the car.

der_vierte

Yes, I think ~4 sec is pretty good with that kind of setup.
I've taken a look on earth to check for slope, it was very minimal slope. Like 2-3ft over the length of the pull (not really visible to the naked eye), but like I said, 2 people in the car and some stuff in the trunk.

EddieJT

Thank guys.

OK, ok let's now explore the idea of 100% not ever opening the engine up; to get the most possible out of a standard block setup, is the GT2560r still the best bet, or if now limited to 250bhp would I now be better off going for the GT2554r?

Going with the idea of keeping engine standard, I will probably pull the trigger on a full kit from Bofi in the next couple of weeks; with their standard kits your choices are TD04, GT2560r or GT2554r.

Incidentally, I've been offered a good price on a TD04 manifold and downpipe, but I am hesitant because I'd really rather go Garret. Am I right to think this? Does the TD04 run out of breath even on a sub 250bhp build?

der_vierte

Go T25! I would say 2560, 50hp more head room and MAYBE enough for a built motor, that's up to you. Spool and transients are really good with the 2560!

TD04 is good up to 250bhp, but you can't just slap some GT28 or even GT30 on it with a build motor and make 350whp... Even EFR fits with a customized downpipe on some manifolds.

technicalninja

Kraken or MKTurbo over Bofi.
Kraken is on your side of the pond anyways.
Kraken Shop - Kraken (kraken-mx5.eu)

MK Turbo - Make your miata go from Meow to RAWR!

The MKTurbo stuff is T3 based but you should still look at his stuff before your buy.
MKTurbo is not limited to below 250hp as you might think by looking at his site.
Lots of folks on this site with 300+ HP MKTurbo steups.

I bought a Kraken set up, one of his full kits with a globally sourced Pulsar GTX2860.
The manifold and exhaust are world class. I'm well pleased.
It took 4 times longer than he originally said to get it but it was worth the wait...

My kit would work fine on a stock engine limiting boost between 8-10 psi (wastegate only).
Add EBC and 300+ should be possible...

allofit

TD04L-13T are cheap and plentiful in the UK. You'll get 240-250bhp from it, but every TD04 dyno plot I've ever seen shows torque falling off a cliff past 5000rpm. No top end. If you've been offered a good deal on a G19 manifold and downpipe that would be a nice budget solution, and your upgrade path includes TD05 and IHI VF turbos should you ever want more power.

I very nearly ended up with the same set-up as technicalninja. Full Kraken 3" kit and a Pulsar GTX2860R. I remain convinced that is the best 'budget baller' option available today.

It's all about your power goals and intentions. The GT2560R is an awesome turbo for the 1.8 VVT and gives you some good head room if you ever do put some rods in your block.

As for the GT2554R... have you seen this? It's all the turbo you need if you're never going to open your engine up.

https://www.miataturbo.net/dynos-tim...-8-vvt-102015/

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I don't ship out of the US unfortunately. Boxes are to big and heavy. I can supply turbo's to get you into the 400whp range though if wanted.

I also am a Pulsar dealer. I plan on trying out their GTX to see how it performs against a garrett. Also hoping to try out one of their G25's.

If you are on a stock motor I will be one of the few people who prefer the 2554. The 2560 will give you more headroom, but I loved the low and mid range torque on my 2554 setup.

Dr.Sep

I totally agree with this, stock motor the 2554r midrange is a BLAST on the street. The instant torque is what most people are actually looking for, even if they think otherwise. It really wakes the car up and makes it feel alive, all around reasonable RPMS and street speeds.

You can't go wrong with the 2560r or 2554r, but I think the instant spool and torque of the 2554 is hard to beat on the street

L4nthonyl

iTrader: (1)

How much boost are you pushing on the EFR 6258?

allofit

Did a few 3rd gear wot pulls last night and this is what the log shows. The numbers in the cells are psi.

10-11psi through the mid range building to 12-13psi or so by redline.

yossi126

iTrader: (6)

My plot. Engine only lasted 1500 miles at this power level, but was already tired.
Now built with rods and starting to push the turbo to its max. Hella fun to drive. Will update with a new dyno plot once I get some new coils installed.

EddieJT

Oh wow! I think that might have clinched it. I am now set on the Bofi/Kraken GT2554r kit (until something else changes my mind).

EddieJT

But the Bofi kit is Kraken, and it's also here in the UK, so is probably the one I'll go for. They had a discount last bank holiday weekend, so I'm hoping they have another at the bank holiday at the end of the month. If they do then I'll pull the trigger.

EddieJT

Yossi, what diameter was your exhaust when you did those plots?

allofit

Looking forwards to seeing that new dyne plot!

Yes BOFI are Kraken resellers. There are advantages buying from BOFI especially if they have the kits in stock and ready to ship plus they're pretty helpful if you give them a call. And you don't have the post-Brexit import duty/tax uncertainty to deal with.

What ECU are you planning on using? I acquired an ME221 before I discovered this community's utter disdain & hatred of it and if I could choose again I'd opt for an MS3 Mini instead. The ME221 is a fine ECU now it's all tuned and working properly, but it was a struggle to get here. I had to return it twice for repairs to the USB port and frankly my face started drooping on one side and I began losing the will to live.

yossi126

iTrader: (6)

It's 2.5" all the way. As far as I know, no restriction implied on this size turbo.

EddieJT

Hah, oh dear.

I'm probably going to go for the ME442. I come from a history of swapping engines from 90s hot hatches on my parents' driveway; just getting my head around turbo charging is aIready a steep learning curve; I certainly know nothing about programmable ECUs, so will leave it to the experts and get it mapped by someone once finished. For that reason I reckon I'm best off with ME221/442 over here in Blighty. Though I admire you self-mappers a lot.

I've actually been offered a good deal on a used ME221, but I am very skeptical about buying a used ECU what with stories like yours above. It might cost me twice (possibly thrice) as much but I'm willing to pay for a new complete kit purely for the convenience and to avoid problems since I'm new to all this.

EddieJT

Ah that's a relief. My Jetex back box is already 2.5". I'd only need to upgrade the centre pipe to 2.5".

allofit

In all seriousness just go with the ECU that your chosen mapper prefers to work with. If that is the ME221/ME442 then that's your best choice. Of those options I'd go with the ME442 for the integrated wideband.

EddieJT

On the Facebook pages there is a remote tuner for ME442 who comes highly recommended. Otherwise I don't have a chosen mapper at the mo, unless you can recommend someone in the Surrey/Kent area?