If the last part was fun, making it functional will ROCK!

I worry about getting all the right fittings for recirc, idle air bypass, and welding external wastegate piping.

The WG I'm looking at is from SSAutoChrome I think. If I wasn't a lazy bastard I would have put links and pictures in here too.

 

This will be the day that will be like the first time I put an Edelbrock carburetor on that 390 Y block that powered the beast of a '65 Tbird I drove in high school. My buddies and I actually took our hats off after we set it on. This will be the crowning achievement.

Hopefully at this point all I have to do it hook the snail up and tune. I would have already installed the IC, which will just serve as the best cold air intake ever put on an NA car.

I'm still not sure which turbo I'm getting, or from where. Still never got an answer about the MSM IHI unit capabilities, and Corky was on the other line when I called.


Also noted are the total prices. All but the minimum one make ordering a BEGi kit look like a really friggin' good idea. I'm hoping to save some money welding if I go completely DIY, but right now any form of kit or coupled parts looks appealing.


Let me know what I'm missing and what you think.

-Damon

 

Seriously, is there a brakes upgrade in your build?

 

If you do some more searching around here for each of those parts, you'll find some of them can be had cheaper than you list.

For example, PerformancePedeler.com has the best prices on exhaust stuff in the world. That Magnaflow is like 90 bucks from them.

Check out homemadeturbo.com's sponsor section. EvansPerformance has some good prices on cheap ebay-ish stuff. I bought several things from him (see my review in his sub-forum) and it's all working great. Including a 70 shipped wastegate that looks just like a tial, and so far, works great.

Intercoolers are like 120 shipped on ebay all day long. 18x12x3 core.

For piping, get an ebay kit or do what I did and buy 2.5" mandrel bends builders kit from RacingSolutions.com. Then you can cut/weld up your own pipes and have minimal couplers/less failure points. Can get silicone from evansperformance or siliconintakes.com,etc.

Oil **** cost me ~100. But it's the best.

 

Yeah, it's not on the list, I consider that part of my suspension upgrade that I was posting on m.net about.

I'm waiting to hear back from a guy I'm haggling with.

If I was to include everything, I'm also putting in a new alternator, shocks, bumpstops, and looking at making my own mounts. Also replacing a few studs and lugnuts, removing the crappily installed stereo, and getting a friend to re-upholster the seats.

I understand your concern though.

 

Thanks for the pointers Pat.

This is why I should have started a Planning thread earlier...

but I've certainly learned a lot in the meantime.

 

even with the BOV recirc'd, it will still be loud and ricers in Cadavaliers will still want to race you.

 

Is there any way to make it vewy vewy quiet? Like hunting Bugs Bunny ****** quiet?

Having ricers (or cops) know I'm boosted is the last thing I want.

And I want to smoke every unsuspecting Mustang GT and G35 I come across.

EDIT:

I started watching vids to get an idea and most of the Subi recircs are loud. So I'm thinking "damn, might as well just get a loud as **** VTA." Then I found one of Scott's vids, and his was freakishly quiet. I've got to hear one in person, and figure out how to get it quiet. I wonder if a silicone vs metal crossover tube is the trick.

 

I'm the same way. 100% sleeper. My care is pretty damn quiet right now, cept for the intake and BOV. The intake is gonna get changed and wrapped in foam to muffle it. The BOV... I'm not 100% sure what I'm gonna do yet. But I'm gonna do something.

 

stock 1g dsm bov crushed?
take a socket and put it on the top of the bov and put it in a press just to crush the top down a bit and put more pressure on the spring, my old dsm was on 15lbs of boost with a 16g and you could barely hear the bov from in the car and you definitely would not be able to hear it form inside a car next to me. not to mention they are dirt cheap.

 

DO A MOTHERFUCKING SEARCH YOU STUPID NOOOOBBBBBBB












Look for a used BEGi manifold/DP. They pop up every so often and you really want to have a firm base for your setup. DIY stuff is cool, but it will never be as reliable as a cast manifold will be. Oil and water lines can be done pretty cheap if you don't get fancy (use two 90s and a pre-made -4AN line with the pop-rivet oil restrictor trick). SS is nice, but unnecessary for everything except the oil feed. I track the **** out of my car and I have rubber coolant lines and a silicone drain. (although the coolant lines are getting changed soon.) The 90 bend into the turbo isn't a big deal at all, I think I just bought a bend and a filter. You could also just jam the filter on the turbo to start out.

The 2560 is a nice turbo but pricey. Any SR20 T25 is also a nice turbo, but much less pricey. Scour the SR20 forums; any Nissan flanged turbo will fit. Stay away from the DSM turbos, they have a small hotside and funky flanges.

For a $1500 budget, if you already have a clutch, wideband, ECU, and injectors, it's tough. Not only do you want to spend a sizeable chunk on a good manifold and DP, but you still have to deal with your weak-*** diff. Keep your stock exhaust and forego the intercooler to start out, and deal with the diff. Get an open 1.8 diff and then buy a used 2.5" exhaust, then the IC, and then look into an Rx7 diff.

 

hmm, yeah, search...will try that

In three months of scouring 4 forums I've seen zero BEGi cast manifolds come up for sale for a 1.6L. I know their **** is ideal, which is why I keep saying "damn I'd like to buy some BEGi parts" and why I started a WTB looking for a mani/dp combo.

If you know someone that has one, please send them my way.

The bend I worry about isn't into the turbo, but the inlet to intake manifold (learn to read noob). I've seen Joe's try at brazing, and know that's not the route. That will be one of the easier pieces to weld though, and I'm sure I can handle that.

Your prob right on welding my own mani/dp though. It would be hard for me to do, and the results would be deplorable.

 

You can buy a 2.5" 90* silicone bend that will clamp right on the throttle body. Cheap and easy. Again, less worrying and more searching. You've done some of your homework. The rest of your answers will be found if you keep looking. Go through people's build threads. Great way to see what others are doing.

 

Yeah, I love the build threads, just wish there were more of them...

Thanks again for the pointers.

Plan looks okay though?

 

I was VTA since installing my turbo 6 years ago. I just installed my recirculating BOV last weekend.

Day and night. Smoother idle, no stalling issues, much quieter even if it isn't stealthy silent.

BTW, you got mail.

 

If I had to do it again, I'd do EVERYTHING before turbo. It's just easier to learn your car and setup PRIOR to having 250 rwhp. Just a quick order list but here I go:

1. All things suspension (includes roll bar)
2. Brakes
3. Megasquirt (pause- get MS running well)
4. Diff (Torsen, RX7)
5. Gauges
6. Possible Catback 3" here so DP will bolt right up.
7. Fuel
8. Radiator
9. Base Kit (BEGI-S or similiar with larger turbo so you do not need to replace it in the future)
10. Finish Exhaust (If you have a one off dp or did the catback option)
11. Intercooler and Piping
12. Turn up boost

 

That's great advice, and the sentiment has been running through my head since I started this thread.

While I'm already taking care of 3, 7 & 8 pretty well, I'm only planning bandaids or cheapest-semi-decent for 1, 2, 4 & 6.

For the money I've been hoarding (basically by not eating and showing up at 6am to work over the break) for the turbo build, I can get a badass suspension and brake setup.

I just know I'll be dying for more power though. The MS may cure some of this by taking off the AFM and fine tuning the base map, but boost is just so damn sexy.

There is always summer though, and what's left from my internship pay after paying tuition will surely buy a base kit.

 

Ah yeah. You're going full replacement EMS.

I've noticed a huge difference between VTA and recirc loudness. People told me they could hear my Bailey VTA around the corner, a block away, at 12 psi.

 

Which allows you more time to learn how to drive the car before applying the power. No sense in having a great turbo car with a band aid **** suspension and no brakes. Besides, you sound young. Money will come.

 

I did brakes, suspension, engine rebuild (on engine #1), and timing band-aids before the turbo install. I probably should have taken some track courses at that time to really learn how to drive.

Honestly though, the handling and stopping characteristics changed so much with the extra power that I had to relearn how to drive my own car. All the upgrades did was keep me from killing myself once the turbo was installed. I couldn't imagine trying to stop a 200 hp miata on stock 1.6 brakes, or trying to negotiate Ortega Canyon on a stock suspension. I suppose it would have been an easier transition if I had professional training.