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Old 05-19-2014, 12:48 AM   #1
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Default Hardware for top mount EFR

Artech top mount manifold with an efr 6258 turbo. Everything is set up for 8mm studs but I understand 10mm is the way to go.

I'm wondering how you guys have yours attached. The housing of the efr doesn't leave a lot of room for fasteners in the one corner, we actually had to tighten it down as we lowered the turbo on.

It's not leaking but I feel it's just a matter of time. I'm not tuned yet so once the higher temps come into play it's gonna be a countdown to which backs out first.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:18 AM   #2
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Consider using Nissan 14495-40P10 OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tabs instead of Stage 8 fasteners (see Nissan 14495-40P10 Genuine OEM T25 T28 Turbo Turbine Locking Tab).

These are used on standard Nissan T25/T28 turbos so SHOULD "do the job" and are what was needed on my low-mount NitroDann manifold+EFR6258 since the Stage 8 fasteners would've required too much "tear-drop" material to be removed to fit them.

I use 8mm inconel studs but that was mostly because the turbo came that way and TSE's EFR6258 kit was going to leave them as 8mm studs (if that was good enough for TSE, it's definitely good enough for me).

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Old 05-19-2014, 10:02 AM   #3
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Were you able to fit those nissan tabs on your EFR? I dont think it'll fit on all the bolts. On mine the two are to access ones are the two that loosened up on me before. The studs didnt stretch, just the copper lock washers didnt hold. We'll see how this season goes, seems good so far, but I'm probably going to end up with ordering a set of M8x1.25 stage 8 nuts off of Amazon to go on my nissan studs. I dont see how it would be possible to run M10 studs on the B1 frame EFR.
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:00 PM   #4
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I can say I didn't use any of Abe's hardware because it just seemed flimsy (unline the amazing manifold and downpipe). The studs had no center shank so there was nothing to keep them from turning all the way through the manifold as you would tighten down the nut, which also seemed very generic. We got basic studs for an expedition (with shanks) and cut them to size on top and bottom, then used oval pinched copper nuts with a skirt to tighten down. I couldn't use the tabs (though I do still have a pair) because I wouldn't be able to make them "hold" the beveled skirt. I'm anticipating that the whole stud will back out before the nut loosens off of the stud.

Here is a picture of my studs. Everything (stud and nut) has turned into an ashy gray after just 600 miles.



Open to any suggestions for modifying this. I did think about getting extra studs, cutting them a bit longer, and then sandwiching using a nut on top AND on the bottom to keep it from backing out in either direction. Thoughts?
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
Were you able to fit those nissan tabs on your EFR? I dont think it'll fit on all the bolts. On mine the two are to access ones are the two that loosened up on me before. The studs didnt stretch, just the copper lock washers didnt hold. We'll see how this season goes, seems good so far, but I'm probably going to end up with ordering a set of M8x1.25 stage 8 nuts off of Amazon to go on my nissan studs. I dont see how it would be possible to run M10 studs on the B1 frame EFR.
Yes, but required a few swear words and some customisation.

Also, the inconel studs on the manifold side have been tack-welded in place to ensure that they aren't going anywhere.

Agree on the M10 comment too.
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