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-   -   Help with 1997 1.8L turbo build?!? (https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/help-1997-1-8l-turbo-build-99014/)

LownSlow420 01-14-2019 10:37 PM

Help with 1997 1.8L turbo build?!?
 
I know everyone hates on eBay turbo kits and i understand why but I’m definitely on a budget but would be willing to save more if it was definitely worth it. Can anyone give me some steps to bring to take to turbo a stock 1997 mx5 Miata. If i could get to 200+ hp I’d be super happy with that. Would a cheap kit like this be any good? And yes i have done my research and I’ve seen where these can be ran reliably especially on low boost. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263885536187

Artifex 01-14-2019 10:50 PM

https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo-discussion-14/6-simple-steps-reliably-turbo-your-na-nb-miata-93402/


:drama:

Spaceman Spiff 01-14-2019 10:53 PM

https://i.giphy.com/media/2ALbeBfUZME4aCdyZg/giphy.webp

Scaxx 01-15-2019 01:24 AM


Originally Posted by LownSlow420 (Post 1518865)
I know everyone hates on eBay turbo kits and i understand why but I’m definitely on a budget but would be willing to save more if it was definitely worth it. Can anyone give me some steps to bring to take to turbo a stock 1997 mx5 Miata. If i could get to 200+ hp I’d be super happy with that. Would a cheap kit like this be any good? And yes i have done my research and I’ve seen where these can be ran reliably especially on low boost. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263885536187

No, no you haven't.

elior77 01-15-2019 03:47 AM

Must have for super budget:
1. ebay cast iron manifold: 100$~
2. wideband + ecu: 800-1000$
3. TD04 turbo 200$~
4. IC + piping 200$~
5. custom down pipe 400$~
6. air filter, turbo oil and water lines, bov 200$~
7. installation + oil pan drill for turbo oil return ???$
8. tune (!!)

Under 200whp you don't need a clutch and not even injectors - you can see how dangerous you run them via the "duty cycle" on the ecu (85% max is default normal)

"stage 2" must have:
- injectors
- clutch
- exhaust - 2.5"-3"

sixshooter 01-15-2019 05:32 AM

200whp required injectors for my 96. It also required a clutch.

If you can't afford those maybe you should wait until you are promoted to Senior Burger Flipper before continuing.

ryansmoneypit 01-15-2019 06:32 AM

Lol

ryansmoneypit 01-15-2019 06:33 AM

Sr. Burger Flipper. Lol

x_25 01-15-2019 08:50 AM

There are even cheap ECU options now for budget builds. Can get a Speeduino PnP unit for a 1.6 for under $275. The non plug and play one (needed for later cars) is even a bit cheaper.

No excuse to run junk piggy backs anymore, even on "budget" builds.

Jacobmx5_ 01-15-2019 08:54 AM

How come he’s not getting roasted???
I’ve asked a far fairer question and got lit up, I guess the vets are in a good mood...

x_25 01-15-2019 08:55 AM


Originally Posted by Jacobmx5_ (Post 1518901)
How come he’s not getting roasted???
I’ve asked a far fairer question and got lit up, I guess the vets are in a good mood...

He posted late at night. All the old guys are still sleeping.

sixshooter 01-15-2019 08:57 AM


Originally Posted by Jacobmx5_ (Post 1518901)
How come he’s not getting roasted???
I’ve asked a far fairer question and got lit up, I guess the vets are in a good mood...

You kids get off my lawn!

WigglingWaffles 01-15-2019 09:00 AM

I can't wait for this to turn out like the "my piggyback setup is running lean" thread

Jconn335 01-15-2019 09:21 AM

I'll divulge all the greatest moar power secrets if you buy the voodoobox in the FS section! :giggle:

elior77 01-16-2019 02:17 AM


Originally Posted by sixshooter (Post 1518883)
200whp required injectors for my 96. It also required a clutch.

If you can't afford those maybe you should wait until you are promoted to Senior Burger Flipper before continuing.

You can run a little under 200whp and keep the stock clutch and injectors (probably on very high duty- 100%?).

180whp setups keep the stock inj and clutch - very fun car still.

ryansmoneypit 01-16-2019 06:13 AM

The name. Lownslo420, tells us all we need to know.

der_vierte 01-16-2019 06:18 AM


Originally Posted by elior77 (Post 1519052)
You can run a little under 200whp and keep the stock clutch and injectors (probably on very high duty- 100%?).

180whp setups keep the stock inj and clutch - very fun car still.

It's all about torque... :party:

sixshooter 01-16-2019 06:41 AM


Originally Posted by elior77 (Post 1519052)
You can run a little under 200whp and keep the stock clutch and injectors (probably on very high duty- 100%?).

180whp setups keep the stock inj and clutch - very fun car still.

No. No you can't.

Above 85% duty cycle is effectively always open so it isn't adding more fuel at that point, just getting leaner. They are EV1 injectors, after all, and have very slow opening and closing times. You would need to significantly increase the fuel pressure on an NA from its 43psi standard to flow enough for much of any boost and wouldn't have headroom for fluctuations in requirements due to cooler weather or a boost spike.

Please don't recommend foolish actions to noobs here.

EDIT: Finally made it to a computer. According to the fuel injection calculator the NA8 265cc injector is good for 171 crank HP at 85% DC, or about 150whp. That's with a boost referenced fuel rail starting at 43.5psi. 150 is not 200 unless you are using the European style of horsepower measurement where everything is inflated by huge %%%.

shuiend 01-16-2019 09:18 AM


Originally Posted by elior77 (Post 1519052)
You can run a little under 200whp and keep the stock clutch and injectors (probably on very high duty- 100%?).

180whp setups keep the stock inj and clutch - very fun car still.

In 2007 I was running a 2554. The stock clutch died somewhere between 4.5 and 7 psi. The stock injectors ran out of fuel about that boost level also.

elior77 01-24-2019 03:29 AM

FM kit (the one with the voodoo box) retain the stock injectors and boost around 5psi~
My stock clutch and the same on other cars I tuned - could hold about 10psi (200whp) before slipping.


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