Help me piss off my neighbors, lots of data now with 100% more uploads
11-22-2016, 01:25 AM
#1
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Help me **** off my neighbors, lots of data now with 100% more uploads
90 chassis w/ms1 standalone. 99 head, intake manifold, aem wideband, id1000 injectors, and cops. Currently NA and not running.
Took the car from a tuned (dentsport) turbo car to a long block to finish a few items in the engine bay including some cutting and welding and a respray. At the same time I pulled the dash to tidy up the harness and update some items. Put the engine components back together and started her up (NA open header) and all seemed good in the world. Then I put the dash and interior back in and ended up needing to rework the fuel lines due to a nasty leak. Once all was said and done she wouldn't start. Ended up being a bad fuel pump due to the FPR being stuck shut. All she does now is crank. Never stumbles or even tries to start. Car has a brand new battery.
So far:
Replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the FPR and get 60psi at the FPR. Verified there was flow of fuel.
Checked the ground for the wiring harness, .5ohms on all applicable pins. Checked the ground on the block, .3ohms; the ground for the head and intake manifold is .6ohms. All of which was measured to the chassis.
I can see everything for MS, all is as would be expected imo. I do get the outer LEDs to come on (injectors and ACCEL) but I am not sure it that's correct.
Swapped the CAS with a known working unit and tried a myriad of positions and found no success. Checked the wiring for the cas and have continuity for all four wires.
Pulled the plugs (stock temp and appropriate gap for COP's), baked them with a torch, verified they all fired when cranking, let the cylinders dry out for a few days, and re-installed them with no joy.
Triple checked timing, then had a good friend make sure it wasn't off.
At one point last year (before the car went into "storage") I got the car to run on what seemed like a single cylinder but it would only do that without the IAT sensor hooked up. Has not done it again since.
The only thing I am coming up with now is pull the injectors and send them off to be cleaned/tested which I don't actually think that will help anything.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this conundrum? I would really like to have a miata I can drive again. Thanks!
Took the car from a tuned (dentsport) turbo car to a long block to finish a few items in the engine bay including some cutting and welding and a respray. At the same time I pulled the dash to tidy up the harness and update some items. Put the engine components back together and started her up (NA open header) and all seemed good in the world. Then I put the dash and interior back in and ended up needing to rework the fuel lines due to a nasty leak. Once all was said and done she wouldn't start. Ended up being a bad fuel pump due to the FPR being stuck shut. All she does now is crank. Never stumbles or even tries to start. Car has a brand new battery.
So far:
Replaced the fuel pump, rebuilt the FPR and get 60psi at the FPR. Verified there was flow of fuel.
Checked the ground for the wiring harness, .5ohms on all applicable pins. Checked the ground on the block, .3ohms; the ground for the head and intake manifold is .6ohms. All of which was measured to the chassis.
I can see everything for MS, all is as would be expected imo. I do get the outer LEDs to come on (injectors and ACCEL) but I am not sure it that's correct.
Swapped the CAS with a known working unit and tried a myriad of positions and found no success. Checked the wiring for the cas and have continuity for all four wires.
Pulled the plugs (stock temp and appropriate gap for COP's), baked them with a torch, verified they all fired when cranking, let the cylinders dry out for a few days, and re-installed them with no joy.
Triple checked timing, then had a good friend make sure it wasn't off.
At one point last year (before the car went into "storage") I got the car to run on what seemed like a single cylinder but it would only do that without the IAT sensor hooked up. Has not done it again since.
The only thing I am coming up with now is pull the injectors and send them off to be cleaned/tested which I don't actually think that will help anything.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this conundrum? I would really like to have a miata I can drive again. Thanks!
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11-24-2016, 12:18 AM
#5
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It looks like voltage is in the vicinity of 8 volts when cranking which may be bad. If that is what is going to my cops then the plugs are firing with ~1800v which seems like a lot. Still trying to determine if that is enough to please the combustion gods.
Last edited by astroboy; 11-24-2016 at 01:18 AM.
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12-01-2016, 01:34 AM
#6
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Pulled the intake manifold off and checked resistance for the injectors, they are all between 12.3 to 12.6 ohms. Then I checked the resistance from the positive battery terminal to the starter and alternator and got .2 ohms for both. There is apparently nothing disconnected / misconnected and all the connections look solid. Any thoughts?
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