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Old 09-18-2011, 04:27 PM   #1
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Default HELP: Miata Turbo Stock ECU

After 8 months i finally finished my Miata project. I bought an eBay turbo kit and installed it in my '96 Miata. I also installed AEM wide-band, and removed the stock o2 sensor with the secondary o2 sensor. I even replaced the stock fuel pump with one from a '96 Rx7. The AFPR is also in place but now i have a problem with the ECU. The car won't stay on with MAF-sensor plugged in, when i remove the MAF-sensor, the car runs a bit better. some times the car stays on pretty long, but when driving it after all these mods the engine runs funny. it's like it doesn't have enough power to go forward, and the engine will shut down easily. Starting the car also isn't that easy, i need to give a bit gas for it to start. Does anybody know what i would need to change or configure? Because i don't want to change the stock ECU for an aftermarket ECU because i can't afford one now, I'm still a student

Ps: i tried starting with both o2 sensors plugged in and yet i still have the same problem. while the o2 sensors were plugged in i unplugged the MAF and tried to start, nothing happens. When removing the MAF with the stock o2 sensors plugged in, it starts but badly. And the MAF is in front of the turbo! i did read something about the MAF sensor needs to be located where it's originally located, it seems that the distance between the intake manifold and the MAF always need to be the same. please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 09-18-2011, 06:55 PM   #2
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There is so much fail here I don't even know where to begin^^???

Since you're still using the stock ecu you definitely need the MAF and stock O2 sensor. Are you sure that pump isn't shot?

you really need to read the sticky on this site "all your answers in one big post" and do a lot more research.

The MAF location has nothing to do with the turbo and power. You could put it into the trunk just as long as it's pre-turbo and it wouldn't matter. What you're talking about is referring to NA power.

What type of FPR are you using? adjustable? what ratios? etc. We also need to know more about the car setup, pics are definitely helpful.
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Old 09-20-2011, 01:21 PM   #3
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You're going to spend more money fixing this clusterfuck than you would buying a megasquirt from someone on the forum.
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Old 09-20-2011, 04:41 PM   #4
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okay, but which ECU do you recommend me Megasquirt or Micro-tech LT8? And is easy to install and tune?
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:41 PM   #5
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Ms.
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Old 09-20-2011, 05:45 PM   #6
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If you're willing to put in a little bit of work, MS is relatively simple to tune and its a joke to install.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:03 PM   #7
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In for the popped motor!!!

Whats the wideband say when in boost?

Also install the stock narrowbands. At last READ A GOD DAMN THREAD... In your case ANY thread on this forum will probably help you in some way (other than this thread).


Here is what most of us will see in post one.

"HEY GUYZ I JUST BOUGHT A TURBO FROM EBAY, JDM FOR CHEAP YO AND HAS A NICE WHISTLY BOV, NOW SOME ONE DO THE REST FOR ME."
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triple88a View Post

"HEY GUYZ I JUST BOUGHT A TURBO FROM EBAY, JDM FOR CHEAP YO AND HAS A NICE WHISTLY BOV, NOW SOME ONE DO THE REST FOR ME."
Bahah. And the second post is:


Title:
HELP: CAR WONT RUN

Message:
HEY MY CAR WONT RUN, WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT?
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:01 PM   #9
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I want to know where this bright idea came from.
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:26 PM   #10
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You really have no idea what you are doing. Everything you've done is wrong. Everything. The very first thing you need to do right now is unhook the wastegate actuator from the turbo's internal wastegate (assuming it's internally wastegated). Then you need to get the car running without boost. This is how your system should be setup from air filter to throttle body:
First - air filter
Second - MAF (no it doesn't matter how far away it is, and please for the love of funk tell me it's plugged in)
Third - Turbo air inlet
Fourth - Turbo air outlet
Fifth - intercooler
Sixth - Throttle body

If you don't have an intercooler, then ignore step number 5.

OK now that's cleared up, let's move on to oxygen sensor. You are running the stock ecu. It will ONLY recognize the stock oxygen sensor. You need to plug that back in, and leave it plugged in. If you want to run a wideband, you need to have a secondary o2 bung installed onto your downpipe. Don't argue with me.

Now that you've fixed the o2, the car should run just as it did stock with the wastegate actuator UNCLIPPED from the wastegate. You will be making no boost. If your car still runs like a pile of garbage, you've probably already destroyed it.

So lets assume the car now runs great, it's just slow. This is where you need to decide where you want to go with your build. Maybe you should be asking yourself thinks like "how much boost does this kit actually make," and "how much fuel am I going to need to keep the motor from destroying itself." Other popular questions would be "what kind of supporting mods am I going to have to do to handle this power."

If you have a chinese turbo, which you probably do, then the wastegate could be set to 15psi. You're going to need a full standalone ECU to properly cope with it. But lets say it's a smallish T25 turbo with an 8psi actuator, then you could get by with bandaids. Put some larger injectors in, get a piggy back ECU like the greddy e-manage or AEM F/IC, and then go to town with tuning.

I could go on but I've done my part for this month.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:43 PM   #11
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since when do we ........

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Old 09-21-2011, 11:55 PM   #12
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Holy ****.

How do you know how to type? I figured someone that had the ability to type, would at least be able to read.

It's not like one day you woke up and there was a shitty turbo kit next to your car and you decided to install it. You had to actually make the decision to buy it. WHY would you do that and not do ANY research (trust me, you didn't do research...)

1. Return car to as close to stock as possible. (stock fuel pump, stock o2, MAF, unhook wastegate actuator, remove AFPR).
2. Save up for a MS. Have Braineak build one for you, or pick one up from a member who has been on here a while. Ensure you read the MS thread first.
3. While you are saving up for your MS, read all the info you can about the MS.
4. Install MS, get a good base tune.
5. NOW you can add some parts. Your best bet is to add as little as possible. That way if something gets screwy you know exactly what it was (The last thing you installed).

OH YEA. Don't log on here, read all the replies and act like you ahve a big ****. This advice will save you a lot of pain and suffering(and money). We have seen a lot of people in your situation, some take our advice and win, others get pissed and eventually get banned. YOU CHOOSE!
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:55 AM   #13
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With skills like that how did you manage to install a turbo kit in the first place?
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:04 PM   #14
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Wow, this thread is really funny - both the question and the answers!

I think I might fit in here...
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank_and_Beans View Post
I think I might fit in here...
Depends on which side you're on
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:52 AM   #16
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Join date in april... what the hell have you been reading in the last 6 months that makes you think that setup would work?

I 2nd the megasquirt, but thats still not going to help the fact you bought an ebay kit.
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:32 PM   #17
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Full of fail...
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sr.Mazmia View Post
...I even replaced the stock fuel pump with one from a '96 Rx7.
Cool. They didn't even sell the RX7 here in the U.S. Did you import a 15 year old OEM fuel pump? Seems like a good idea - why waste money on a Walbro.

U trollin' bro?
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Old 09-27-2011, 07:31 PM   #19
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stay out of boost, get megasquirt and tune before your engine explodes
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:23 PM   #20
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Just curious but did you own a Honda before the miata?
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