its more about internal volume....

I figured it was 2.5" thick, not 6", it should suffice without problems. :gay:

Sorry I thought it was the MSM IC. Most intercoolers arent 6 inches deep.

Is there some deminishing returns as you trade width for depth?

less frontal surface area, the internal airflow closer to the front will be cooled slightly better than the airflow closer to the radiator. Can it be calulated? I dunno.

That's what I was thinking. Even if it's too complex to calculate it might be measurable though.

but i forgot to say, a thicker intercooler will be more efficient.

Then why don't we see 4" by 4" cores 12" deep? It is just packaging?

I use flat black mesh in my front and rear bumpers. I don't really care what others think since I also have a body kit which is pretty taboo to most of the Miata world. Before I put the mesh in you could see right under the car since I am sure my bumper has a bigger grill area than an OEM one and it was just this big obnoxious hole and it bugged me so I fixed it. There is no way no how that mesh restricts airflow it like 1/4" holes or something not window screen.

inefficient. the only amount of air that can pass through it is that 4x4" sqaure, by the time the air passes through, it'll probably be as heated as the charge.

the greater the frontal area, the greater the amount of ambient air that goes through the core, the great the air through the core, the greater the cooling capability.

so while added thickness will increase efficiency, the gains become less and less. the 2nd half of the intercooler is doing less and less work. and then the thicker the core, the more difficult it is for air to pass through; drag coefficient.


everything about picking an intercooler is a compromise.

READ HIS LAST LINE!!!!! Replace picking an intercooler with 'everything about working on your car' hehehe :vash: choices! choices! there are toooooo many :cool:


Beerslurpy....!no problem man!...NO OFFENSE TAKEN

Less BS more pictures please. :)

Don't stop talking now....

I'm going to need everyones' help when I get this thing running.


HERE'S SOME PICS ON PHOTOBUCKET UNDER S.N. S10383

http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/

thanks for the additional pictures. Your approach to notching the cross member is different from others that I've seen.

Could you describe how you moved the radiator down?

On lowering the radiator: Pretty much everything I did is in the pics...

-Cut hooks off stock lower mounts. Weld slotted extension plates on lower mounts, weld nut onto hooks. Bolt hooks to the slotted extension plates.
-Make plates that mount to stock upper radiator mounts. Drill hole on these plates about 3.5" lower than stock mounting height. Through bolt the radiator to the top mount plates.
-Slide hooks to where needed to match up with the stock lower holes on the radiator. Slide stock lower pins through the holes on the radiator. Viola!
- Notch upper radiator support cross piece. Weld in half of 2.5" exhaust pipe. Paint to match original body color.
-Remove radiator tubing on driver side from rail for lower water hose. Replace with 22" 1.25" I.D. flex hose. 22" rather than 20" is needed since the radiator is lowered.

The front mount I.C. and hard mount devil horns were all then built around this foundation.


ANYWAY:
The thing is all buttoned up. PICS ARE ON THEIR WAY... All I have left to do is flush the entire cooling system and turbo, drain and put new oil in,and recharge battery before I can start it up.

I have the greddy B.O.V. and recirc. tubing mounted but capped off to avoid vacuum leaks due to misadjustment for the first startup.

It's going to be about a week till I can get the time to flush it because I have to regrout my bathroom :vash:

Please check out my pics that will be posted up tomorrow.... let me know if you guys see anything I'm missing and lend any suggestions you have.

Anthony

Over the top is genius, I wish it was simpler to do though, I couldn't do it because it would just be to complicated.

what about motor flex? the devil horns are mounted to the frame then from there straight to the throttle body right? will the silicone connectors flex enough?

I'm hoping they'll flex enough the way it is, but i'm anticipating having to put hump connectors in at each joint........

Engine bay is done (other than remounting my washer reservoir and putting on hump couplers when the straights pop off:ugh2:)

Now I just have to get some stuff done around the house and then i'll have the time to flush everything and get it started for the first time in 1.5months :bigtu:

http://s195.photobucket.com/albums/z126/s10383/

It runs!!!!!! Started it up last night, July 20. For the first time in 2 months!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! With the vortech 12:1 disc, it's pig rich up on the top end. I'm waiting on the exhaust clamp that bolts the dp to the bellhousing, and have to bleed my brakes real good. Until then I can't romp on it at all. Then it's off to the dyno!!


Anyone have any discs for a vortech for sale???