|
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1513706)
he just bit the pillow and took it. allofit. like a man
|
Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1513713)
At least he only had to take all 3"
|
Originally Posted by Jacobmx5_
(Post 1513678)
Upon further investigation there shall be no dump pipe. Thanks for the inputs. Does anybody know where i can Scavenge 3 inch exhaust piping. not enough room to work with behind the turbo. what manifold you have? pics? turbo outlet vband or 5 bolt flange? |
Top mount cast manifold. Post picture later 5 bolt flange |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1513722)
i doubt you can fit a 3" downpipe and have an EWG all go into the exhaust.
not enough room to work with behind the turbo. http://www.codrus.com/miata/fm2r/engine-and-tranny1.jpg --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1513730)
Sure you can.
--Ian is this the manifold you have? how are you connecting the tial ewg to the manifold? https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...17d3caa614.jpg |
I’m planning on welding the waste gate to the manifold ( to the right* side of the flange) if not then to the bottom. I saw Tom do this with the exact same manifold and wastegate a couple years back here on the forum to his yellow sunburst Miata. |
So your going to weld to the cast manifold? Explain how this is going to work, long term. Hell, 1 month term.
|
Well Tom did it, seen bunch of people do it right and it works. You have to do it right! welding to cast iron is a bitch, not recommended. Brother had a welded ewg to his sr cast manifold. Drill/cut your hole pre heat the hell out of the manifold. acytelene torch, propane whatever you have till you see it slight orange. Weld and tap the Cooling fusing metal to release pressure so it won’t crack. finish up nicely and it should last. |
Well... You just threw "money is tight" out the window.
much easier to buy a standard pre fabbed kraken or FM t25 iwg manifold/dp set and slap a nice 2560 or 2871 turbo. Good luck, I really hope all this works out for you and won't break the bank. post pics of progress/finished product to prove us all wrong. |
Originally Posted by Jacobmx5_
(Post 1513832)
Well Tom did it, seen bunch of people do it right and it works. You have to do it right! welding to cast iron is a bitch not recommended. Brother had a welded ewg to his sr cast manifold. Drill/cut your whole pre heat the hell out of the manifold. acytelene torch, propane whatever you have till you see it slight orange. Weld and tap the Cooling fusing metal to release pressure so it won’t crack. finish up nicely and it should last. it's the heat cycle that really works the weldelement, bad. all if this uncertainty is easily avoided by just plunking down the cash for quality components. Cry once, buy once. |
Originally Posted by borka
(Post 1513835)
Well... You just threw "money is tight" out the window.
much easier to buy a standard pre fabbed kraken or FM t25 iwg manifold/dp set and slap a nice 2560 or 2871 turbo. Good luck, I really hope all this works out for you and won't break the bank. post pics of progress/finished product to prove us all wrong. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1513611)
I rode in a shitbox with a hood dump and can tell you that driving it two blocks made my eyes water and I stunk like exhaust all day.
If you cannot afford a piece of exhaust pipe you cannot afford to own and operate a turbo Miata. You don't have an upgraded clutch on your list in the stock clutch will only handle the stock power of a 1.6. The 1.6 diffs fail at stock power levels so replacement 1.8 differentials and axles are required. Since you have a 1.6 you also require a variable throttle position sensor which you will have to wire in or your car will run poorly everytime you stomp on the gas. There's more but you probably don't want to hear it. I only paid 390 from my header all the way to the back exhaust. That included a muffler, o2 bung, and new Flanges on my cat due to the PO being a hack and lopping off the stock flange points. On top of all that, I live in California where everything is more expensive!! Now my car smells great, has a nice(but quiet) exhaust note, and the cops don't even look my way anymore. |
ignore all the hater here. i personally have hood exit on my 1.5j supra. I can hear music when cruising on highway. it will make the afr leaner depend on your rpm. most likely fuck up the AFR at idle. hood exit is not lot louder than the straight pipe. Believe me is still quick than some v8 straight pipe since the turbo is a muffler. My hot side is at the passenger side. so when I roll window up I wont smell anything. I drove my with hood exit for 1000 mile no problem. busted knuckle films drove his twin turbo LS hood exit for over 13000 mile roatrip in 3 months, cross country more than 3 times, doesn't seen he has hearing issue. Just do what you like no need to care about what other people say
|
Bro....you tarded by about 2 years
|
?
|
Originally Posted by Zeng Hugo
(Post 1588931)
?
Let this die... |
Originally Posted by Zeng Hugo
(Post 1588929)
ignore all the hater here. i personally have hood exit on my 1.5j supra. I can hear music when cruising on highway. it will make the afr leaner depend on your rpm. most likely fuck up the AFR at idle. hood exit is not lot louder than the straight pipe. Believe me is still quick than some v8 straight pipe since the turbo is a muffler. My hot side is at the passenger side. so when I roll window up I wont smell anything. I drove my with hood exit for 1000 mile no problem. busted knuckle films drove his twin turbo LS hood exit for over 13000 mile roatrip in 3 months, cross country more than 3 times, doesn't seen he has hearing issue. Just do what you like no need to care about what other people say
Shut the fuck up. |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1588950)
Shut the fuck up.
|
|
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:05 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands