How does a stock 1.8 miata clutch feel compared to a aftermarket clutch?
 

Im not sure But I Changed my clutch not to long ago to a OEM standard clutch and had to flywheel resurfaced, Now I got ripped off big time by the mechanic who did this job $825.00 and I supplied the freakin parts ....anyways...,Im not sure If i had an aftermarket clutch or not, but before the change out I had quicker accerleration I could take 1st to 40mph, 2nd to 60,3rd to 90,4th to 115,5th To 135...Now these numbers were right before redline and the car had It's nicest pull in 2nd...Now Im thinking Im in need of a new clutch,There used use to a chirp in 2nd and A lil one in 3rd..now that is no longer there...The rpms still climb rapidly but the car is sluggish and does'nt seem that all that power is hitting the floor, The stock clutch feels different to what was before, My last clutch was worin the the point of slippige...Im not sure, but It seems out 3 times I've taken my car to that guy it ran worst after...But I dont take my car to him anymore since the clutch, Call me stupid But I went back even after he charged me 1200.00 for replacement of 2 rotors and a brake caliper, and replacement of break pads that I bought...He's currently threatning to put me in jail for 100 dollers that haven't paid him, He did extra work That I never approved of and he never called me while he was doing any of the work on my car, It was me always calling him...I never heard anything till it was time to pay up, This guy is an asshole big time, a arab or muslum,or some type Of eastern person ..anyways the shop is called z-tech and its on us-1792 in longwood fl, if ever in florida never take your car here!:nono:

-There was more power being deliverd to the wheels with the previous clutch before it started slipping, So basically , shifting through gears does not deliver the same response as wen I first bought the vehicle earlier in 05', The rpms still rise rapidly,motor still delivering full power, however it there power being made is not getting to the wheels and not pulling as hard.

-IM not paying him for that 100 dollers, He gave me a quote of 500 dollers to get the clutch job done, I told him to contact me if the cost was to go above that. he never contacted me, he was never around when I called. its bad enough I stayed broke after payin the asshole for two weeks because I needed my car to get to and from work!

-He says he had to charge extra because he had to remove the exhaust system.
-he had to ship the flywheel to get resufaced, he had to charge me for that.
-he had to replace the main seal, he charged my 45 for the seal and 80 for labor.
-GOD knows how much he charged me in labor, I don't remember where I put recipt.
-he never contacted me on any of the work on the vehicle.
-he gave me an original quote Of 500 for complete job.
-I supplied the fucking clutch.

-If im making this sound complicated or if I sound stupid my bad, It's the only way I know to explain whats going on when Im driving the car.

-And I don't know where there is a mazda specific shop in my area?

there is that better ,ONE BIG READABLE POST!

That's illegal you know.

And you broke rule #1 of owning a miata. Never take your miata to anything but a mazda/miata specific shop.

What's his hourly rate? It shouldn't have been more than a 4-5 hour job tops!, so he charges like $200 an hour?

Back to topic...I don't understand how you are explaining the difference between the two clutches.

Hahahah Do You Expect Me To Read All Those Posts?!?!?!! Delete Them All And Break Them Up Into One Big Post!!!!

There ya go, you happy now :slap: :bigtu:

???

Doing extra work without authorization is illegal. That's why shops usually give you a quote and you have to sign something saying they can proceed.

That's part of the clutch job, he knows that. It doesn't cost $100 to remove (5) 14mm bolts. That was probably 5-10 mins of his time. I'm surprised he didn't charge you a lift fee.

That's part of the job as well. If he's ever done a clutch then he knows he has to resurface the flyhweel. Somestimes shops charge extra for it (above the clutch job) but it should have been included in the quote, not some extra hidden fee.

Did he tell you that at first? Did you say he could?

You should go find it.

Big no-no.

Stop going to that shop.

-I've never stepped foot in that shop since the clutch job, never will again.
- he told me he had to replace to main seal After he did the work.
-Does a aftermarket clutch make a difference in acceleration.
-He gave me a quote of 500, I sighned, he proceeded with the job without contacting me about any further work until completion of job then he called me in and Gave me the bill. :td:

The ? im asking in this thread is basically, Can a aftermarket clutch provide quicker and better acceleration and provide more grip to deliver all the power the motor is making to the rear wheels under load than the factory clutch.

No, a factory clutch is strong enough to hold ~50% more torque than stock, so if the stock clutch slipped, it was either improperly installed or old and worn. Hell, a factory 1.6L clutch can easily handle a 1.8L engine's stock torque; lots of 1.8L CSP racers use 1.6L flywheel/clutch combos.

And I submit that, if you were chirping the tires in 3rd, then you are shifting too agressively. Don't expect your flywheel, clutch and tranny syncros to be happy with you for very long.

It takes about 1 1/2 hours to install a clutch dude, this guy just ripped you off.

tell me somthing I don't know...:sadwavey:

That would be haulin' serious ass. I've done it in about 3-3.5 hours, going at a pretty good clip with air tools, etc.

It isn't worht his time to try to persue legal. Besides, he'll have a hard time trying to explain to a judge all the extra fees he tacked on after you agreed (in writing) to $500.

Ok then Hmmm , could it be Time for a new or used tranny, or even a rebuild , I did'nt actually do that often , only when racing..often street and highway runs,....but I stopped all that when I met my wife..:bigtu:

It's going to cost him alot more to pursue me for 100 bucks legally, on top of that he did work that I did not agree to:bigtu:

Probably doesn't need a rebuild as long as it's not making any grinding noises or clunking when shifting.

How about a stage 1 spec clutch and some redline sycro fluid, It does grind ocasionally, But only when trying to shift aggresivily...I don't do that anymore, but a new clutch and redline should restore some punche no?

Stop shifting hard. Even when I'm shifting fast (street racing, autoxing, road racing) I never grind it. Smooth is key!

The amount of power being put to the ground is not going to be any more or less with a different cluch, wether it be a stock clutch with a 150 torque rating (guessing) or a clutch with a rating to 450 torque. All the clutch does is make a connection between the tranny and the engine to make the tranny move at the same speed at the engine.

The ONLY exception to this is if your clutch is slipping, which if it is, you would notice, and if it is slipping, they installed it wrong and its time to take it back up there and demand your money back for improper work.

it does'nt seem to be slipping, then again Im not sure, it just seems that the acelleration transit time between shifts is sOmewhat off, you know that feeling that pulls you in the back of your seat in 2nd gear, its not as strong and acceleration in 2nd gear before redline is 55 instead of 60 what it was with the aftermarket clutch..then again somthing is not right, Im confused now. damn!

Well a clutch cant change gear ratios.. Maybe you just thought it was 60 before? :dunno: