If you're turobcharging your car, you need to be looking at clutches stronger than the Spec Stg. 1. Look at the Spec Stg. 2, the fiber/carbon disks from Clutchnet, the high clamping-force units from RPS and ACT, etc.

A friend of mine is a Mazda Technician. He got my clutch change in about 1:15. We didn't have to worry about any siezed bolts since we had the trans out a year earlier. I was impressed :)

I've got a Spec Stage II in the 1.6l size with the light weight flywheel. So far I love the clutch and it is holding up at 10psi nicely. It get's a little soft as far as engagement goes if you really beat on it, from what I understand that is the nature of a kevlar clutch plate when they get hot. The best part about the Spec stage II is that it has stock like pedal and engagement while being a little more crisp.

Clutch slipage can be pretty subtle. Going from a worn OEM clutch to a fresh aftermarket performance clutch can make a big difference in feel. I know with my old clutch doing a really fast aggressive 1-2 shift the amount of time it took for the clutch to really bite was much longer than the current clutch I have now.

http://www.jdsperformance.com/spec.a...iata&fcmd=cars

the stage 1 spec clutch is rated at 230 ft/lbs of torque, thats more than I actually need is it not? Im only going to be running max 7-8psi of boost max on my 1.8 , thats what ...40-50hp increase over stock?

Remember that the ratings for torque on a clutch are at the crank. And of course you want some additional headroom as well. Take 30 ft/lb for drive train loss, so that clutch at it's best is rated for maybe 200whp, but I'd take that with a grain of salt.

This is one thing you don't want to replace more than once especially if you are paying labour for it. What's the price difference between Stage 1 and 2? Saving $100 now but having to do the job twice would suck.

Yea that makes more sense than anything else.