Could a Junkyard 1.8 take, if a junkyard 1.8 could take boost??


187,000 miles on the engine that came from a 1993 Escort GT automatic (The trans is why it was junked...) that I obliterated to get my little motor from. When I arrived at this car the hood was still shut and most of the car was in pretty good condition. Out came the sawzall and some other misc hand tools and we ripped it apart.



100% disassembly of the engine has yielded some excellent results. Found pretty much every specification of the motor was within limits on everything from the cylinder walls, main journals, rod journals.. Hell, even the oil pump gears were within spec!

The cylinder head was gone though, it had so much carbon built up on all 16 valves not a single one of the sealed. Problem easily solved.

Throwing the motor back together and stuffing it back into my car with some extra features added... Gonna see how long this little guy will take 17psi from a Warner Ishi RHB52 turbocharger.



Any bets how long she lasts?






Stock 1.8 Block
Stock Forged Crankshaft
Stock connecting rods
Stock cast aluminum pistons
OEM Bearings
187,000 mile piston rings
9:1 compression ratio
Stock rebuilt cylinder head w/3 angle valve job
Stock cams, valves, springs, followers, retainers, keepers
ARP Head studs
Stock metal head gasket
Shimmed tension spring on oil pump for increased pressure
Megasquirt EMS
TechEdge 2A0 Wideband oxygen sensor controller w/Bosch Sensor
Stock ignition system
ETD Racing Mild steel turbo manifold
WarnerIshi RHB52 Turbocharger (Should be good for almost 19psi.. lol)
Mitsubishi Starion frontmount intercooler
SPEC Stage3+ Clutch (good for 400# of torque)
Stock Cooling system

God speed, little engine that should.

 

why would you not give it new rings?

 

I'm cheap. That would require enough cost and work it wouldn't honestly be worth it. The cylinder walls still have hash marks and the rings aren't polished. They'll seal well enough for now.

Theres another motor I'm doing a full build on, this is just to get my car running again.

I might add, the motor cost about $50.00.

 

if you dont care about the motor and your turbo is good to 19psi then run 19psi.

 

next question: why the pink block?

 

Cause it's super JDM tight yo...
Dur.

 

Cause I have a dSLR and didn't really feel like adjusting the color and exposure correctly from shooting in manual mode with flash. I assure you, it's really red.

 

17psi? I give it 6 months.

 

A completely stock block is stable at 12 psi. Like forever stable unless you overheat or lose oil pressure etc.

At 15 psi, you are probably pretty safe with a conservative tune, but the crappyness of the stock fuel rail will conspire against you if you get too close to the edge. Also, it is easy to hit 17 psi if the weather turns cold and you ran 15 all summer.

Then again, if you really know what you are doing, there have been guys that ran nearly 30 psi on the stock block and didn't blow anything up. Ric made 400+ and ran 10s on a completely unopened block. Still, a lot of those guys have blown up a lot of engines. My hunch is that 18 psi = isntagib for the stock rods.


On a built motor with a real fuel rail, I really wouldnt worry about reliability at least in the raw sense of "can my motor make X amount of power without bending?" Forged internals can pretty much go as far as your turbo unless you fry a piston through bad tuning. Pauter/wiseco/turbo is a combo that is good up to the 500+ range.

I haven't heard of anyone ruining headgaskets from too much boost. Some guys run ARP head studs but the ones that don't haven't been turning into MK3 supras.

 

I see veritcal scoring.

 

pics aren't working of rme hmm might be the PC though damn vista. :P

 

WTF does everyone try to talk in PSI.... Its a meaningless number! Power breaks things... not PSI.

:grumble:

 

I can think of a few turbos that would murder a 1.8 on 12psi after a half mile or so.

 

maybe if your talking about a GT1241....

 

ahem he listed his turbo at the start dude

 

ok, then ....that little turbo can only output 320CFM above 60% efficiency and can support around 30psi (3PR).

stock output on a 1.8 is 190CFM....so you're looking at maxing that turbos potential on your engine at about 10psi.

320/190 = 1.7 X 14.7 - 14.7 = 10psi

anything more than that will be hot *** air, so 18psi with that little turbo wont do anything for you but cause heat and ping and kill it fast.

 

I'm glad someone mentioned fuel rail.. I totally forgot that I needed the upgrade.

 

Update!!

I have fully assembled the engine and performed a cylinder leakage test on it.. Here are my results!!


#1: 24%
#2: 27%
#3: 15%
#4: 21%




I'm getting excited!!!!

 

green=sex

 

DEEP into the low side of the green, none the less!!!!!

I can't wait to see this thing run!