There are plenty of Suby guys running 3071 and 3076s with .64 A/R. You're giving up a bit of top end, but not anything a sane responsible person will see on the street. It's a worthy tradeoff unless you get a hardon posting dyno graphs all day.
Quite a few overlays between the two over on NASIOC that show spool differences and top end. Frank |
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 445301)
you of all people should know how important it is to question the current dogma. that's what I'm doing.
you mean you should have chosen the 2871 .86 at first instead of trying the 2860 .64 for a street car and hoping for better spool with the latter? |
I think anything over 300 whp on a track is worthless unless your running wide ass tires. Atleast in a miata...:loser:
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I might be willing to swap housings if someone had the standard .86, but it's kinda gotta have the wastegate welded shut.
incidentally, what's Pauls 2560 A/R? |
WG doesnt need to be welded shut Matt. You can just tie it shut with some wire.
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hell with no boost signal the WG wouldnt open anyway just swap and run the shit y8's
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Remember the "GT2871R" also comes in 3 different compressor trims.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 445405)
I'd love to compare them but I don't really want to spend another $500.
EDIT: I really mean you pay retail/lowest allowable price and pay less for the manifold/downpipe...yeah.
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 445446)
I might be willing to swap housings if someone had the standard .86, but it's kinda gotta have the wastegate welded shut.
incidentally, what's Pauls 2560 A/R? |
Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 445106)
Links to dyno sheet?
Sorry, I looked. |
Originally Posted by sbkcocker499
(Post 445412)
I think anything over 300 whp on a track is worthless unless your running wide ass tires. Atleast in a miata...:loser:
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Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 445301)
you mean you should have chosen the 2871 .86 at first instead of trying the 2860 .64 for a street car and hoping for better spool with the latter?
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 445555)
I can't find it anywhere.
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Originally Posted by rharris19
(Post 445692)
What I mean is that since this will be prodominately a track car, I should have gone with the .86 2871. If this was a street car, then I think the .64 2860 would be perfect.
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Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 445705)
Or get a bit of the best of both, with a 0.64 a/r 2871 :bigtu:
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At constant boost maybe, but what about flattening the torque curve by raising boost at higher levels? The bigger compressor wheel will keep the discharge air temperatures down (efficiency) and the added boost will help offset the higher flow turbine losses at higher RPMs. I plan on trying this myself. 225 ft*lb or so carried to as high an RPM as possible should be great. 225 ft*lbs @ 7000 RPM = 300 bhp. 225 ft*lbs @ 8000 RPM = 342 BHP (about 300 RWHP). Should be able to do this with a built motor from what I have seen.
There is no right answer here, just a matter of choosing one's compromise. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 445946)
At constant boost maybe, but what about flattening the torque curve by raising boost at higher levels? The bigger compressor wheel will keep the discharge air temperatures down (efficiency) and the added boost will help offset the higher flow turbine losses at higher RPMs. I plan on trying this myself. 225 ft*lb or so carried to as high an RPM as possible should be great. 225 ft*lbs @ 7000 RPM = 300 bhp. 225 ft*lbs @ 8000 RPM = 342 BHP (about 300 RWHP). Should be able to do this with a built motor from what I have seen.
There is no right answer here, just a matter of choosing one's compromise. |
I'm working on the intake right now; I'm removing VICS and opening up the plenum. The top half is done, and I am working on the bottom half now. Not as good as a full-up custom intake with a larger throttle but cheaper and easier.
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^I'm in for data on this. I don't think anybody has had a direct before/after dyno plot for gutting the 99-00 manifold.
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Originally Posted by samnavy
(Post 446070)
^I'm in for data on this. I don't think anybody has had a direct before/after dyno plot for gutting the 99-00 manifold.
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We may soon. I was going to do the same thing ZX-Tex is doing, but if he is doing it soon then I will wait.
How long do you think it will take? I was going to try to do it within the next few weeks. |
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