You should have been there and FD long ago.

Ha ha thanks man. I appreciate that..

I heare that alot, BUT then they say "not with the Miata" LOL!!!

So my dumb ass goal is to do it in the miata..

Braineack:
How about a stage 3 wheel and a .36 AR??

could be interesting....the idea of a stage III is for flow, so it's already going to spool slower but make more power. coupled with that small of an A/R, who knows.

Fuck it, I may have to try it if the adjustable cams gears dont put the power band where I need it...

I am glad I can do something interesting for you ;)

OK folks

So as stated above my spool was shit.
I am now spooling just as late and making 280whp and 273ftlbs on a mustang at 15psi.

Dont get me wrong, the thing is bad ass, just not when I need it to be.

Anyway, I just found out today that my turbo will be getting a new stage 1 turbine wheel with a .48AR housing. Gspec and Turbonetics came together and agreed to fix it for me. Thanks greg at Gspec :)

So I wanted some input from you folks..

I still def want the same numbers, they are great, and I do believe the smaller wheel is going to make them happen alot quicker. Hopefully 1200rpm quicker.

I just wanted to know if you think I will have to jack up my boost a shit ton to get the same numbers with the smaller turbine wheel...

Thanks everyone. I hope to put up a solid dyno here for you folks soon so I can be added to the spool info ect..

I ran that exact same turbo with a 15* turbine clip on an 8v VW for a while and with that shit-box head it was making 12psi at 3500rpm with 2" exhaust, lol.

Your initial instinct in post #1 was correct. The T3S60 was exactly the turbo you should have gotten from step one. It would have gotten you exactly what you wanted. Don't listen to Hustler, it took him 4 years and everyone elses opinions, the same people that recommended you the T3S60, to finally put his setup together.

TURNS, dude, it would be awesome if you would post your dyno plots as you've changed setups along the way... it would benefit the forum a lot, and long after you may be gone.

Confirm you are currently running adjustable cam-gears? Which ones did you get, what are the settings, and can we see the before/after dyno plots?

No problem. I can do that. i just have to get all of the plots together.
i will get it all together amd make a post with all the info i can give you guys.

Right now i just have scans of the plots and they may look really shitty here. I will try and get the files so I can post them here clearly.

So the t3s60 with the stage 1 turbine wheel and a.48 A/R BB turbo will have me at the smae power #s, just a shit ton earlier???
If so, tis car will be more of an animal..

Thanks everyone..

Just look at scott's plots man. It comes on like a freight train and stays. And he is only running like 12-13psi. On your built motor you can max it out. I think it can run something like 22psi maybe more before being inefficient. Should get you your target easily.

Really guy?? That wont happen :)

With a good match you dont need it..

Yeah man. I def thought stage 1 was the way to go..

Thats probably why they are actually going to fix it..

I am excited to see the change..

Sorry if this was mentioned, but ATP sells a T3 turbine housing for the 2560r. Need to use a EWG but you already have that.

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This. It was my first thought, as well.

T31 Turbine Housing for GT25R/GT28R: atpturbo.com

They also list an internally gated T3 inlet/ Ford outlet housing here, but I didn't see it on the site. I'm sure they would sell you one if you called.

Garrett GT2871R turbo with GT28R style Compressor Housing NO ACTUATOR: atpturbo.com

sounds like a good idea to me.

Boundary Engineering check out this page for various plots with only changing the intake cam gear on a turbocharged miata. It really modulates power.

So when did you start offering VVT cam gears? Using a dyno plot from someone not even using your product is a bit misleading don't you think?