IC Piping Flex Coupler Questions
6 Attachment(s)
I posted this on Miata.net but since its turbo related thought I'd try here.
Can some one tell me the different functions of a single hump vs a double hump coupler hoses ...and what is the wire ring for on the double? Do the clamps with springs really work? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1406470570 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1406470570 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1406470570 |
humps are to allow more movement. the ring is to prevent from collapsing. yes those sprung clamps are probably the best (if you get the proper ones and not some knockoff)
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The spring clamps are great; however, entirely unnecessary on a "proper" set up.
If you lip/bead your IC pipes, nothing more than a nice lined SS worm-drive clamp is required. Such as these:McMaster-Carr I used these on my IC pipes and the clamping force was high enough to crush the aluminum piping. It ain't coming apart. -Zach |
i always end up taking off the springs.
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I have no problem with the cheap t-bolt clamps sourced form either cx racing or silicone intakes. I just make sure to anti-seize them to prevent galling, which you should do to all stainless threaded fasteners anyways. Ok, thats a lie, I have one problem with them. The cx racing ones all have 10mm nuts and the silicone intakes ones have 11mm and it pisses me off to no end whenever I have to remove the couplings either at the intercooler or the throttle body and have to use 2 different sized sockets.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1153475)
I have no problem with the cheap t-bolt clamps sourced form either cx racing or silicone intakes. I just make sure to anti-seize them to prevent galling, which you should do to all stainless threaded fasteners anyways. Ok, thats a lie, I have one problem with them. The cx racing ones all have 10mm nuts and the silicone intakes ones have 11mm and it pisses me off to no end whenever I have to remove the couplings either at the intercooler or the throttle body and have to use 2 different sized sockets.
When I'm prepping and fabricating I take off the lock nut and use a regular nut that can be hand tightened. When finished put the lock nut back. |
Originally Posted by scratchedup
(Post 1153480)
How about replacing the 11mm nuts with a common size.....10mm?
When I'm prepping and fabricating I take off the lock nut and use a regular nut that can be hand tightened. When finished put the lock nut back. Oh and as another note, the cx racing t-bolt clamps are actually stainless bands with zinc coated steel t-bolt part. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1153481)
havent gotten around to it.
Oh and as another note, the cx racing t-bolt clamps are actually stainless bands with zinc coated steel t-bolt part. I've been using DIXON which are way over kill but they are nice. The nut is a nice 7/16 hex 1/4 x 28. |
I'm trying to avoid putting stuff on the car that requires fractional wrenches and sockets. Scratch that, I'm trying to avoid putting things on the car that require the use of anything besides a 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, or 22mm wrench or socket.
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11mm nuts blow.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1153487)
11mm nuts blow.
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They are not 11mm. they are 7/16" and made in MURICA!!
Way to not be patriotic and get told by a russian french canadian. Way to go. Way. to. go. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1153484)
I'm trying to avoid putting stuff on the car that requires fractional wrenches and sockets. Scratch that, I'm trying to avoid putting things on the car that require the use of anything besides a 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, or 22mm wrench or socket.
never seen 7mm...stuff. My turbo flange nuts are now all 13mm. I could not source the 12mm ones. |
7mm should be M4 bolts, so probably almost nothing on the miata. I spend the extra money and get the Japanese Small Wrench (JIS) standard hardware to get all the right wrench sizes.
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Wilwood Dynalite calipers use 1/4" bleeders. That's 6.35mm. I only had a 6mm wrench, had to... file it out a little bit.
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Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 1153510)
They are not 11mm. they are 7/16" and made in MURICA!!
Way to not be patriotic and get told by a russian french canadian. Way to go. Way. to. go. sorry im not trying to do fractions. |
This is the response I got regarding what size nuts bolts wrenches does the Airbus use...
"A bit of clarification for you guys, albeit from a pilot not an engineer! Airbus are not French made, but rather "European", although I'm sure the French would be happy to pretend otherwise! The major components are actually made all over Europe, and the standards used are an amalgam of the practices favoured by the various original constituent companies! I have no doubt that there was once serious discussion about what sizes of fasteners should be used, and it would seem that the British contingent won that one and Unified (not SAE) sizes were used. (Standard in the British aviation industry). Sensible decision as maintenance needs to be carried out anywhere! This was how Concorde was built! Next came the argument about how these fasteners should be designated, and the French won that one, consequently you will find what is actually a 1/4 inch fastener designated 6.35mm by Airbus! Ignore that, use normal tools, and you will be fine!" |
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 1153510)
They are not 11mm. they are 7/16" and made in MURICA!!
Way to not be patriotic and get told by a russian french canadian. Way to go. Way. to. go. |
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