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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

ID that noise

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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 07:24 PM
  #1  
aallwardt's Avatar
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Default ID that noise

Finally got my turbo kit installed and electronics up and running. (Used kit from a guy on here last apring 10k miles he said) Super pumped! It's an FM kit, turbo (2560), manifold, IC, rx7 injectors, ms2 PNP (tuned by previous owner) AEM wideband failsafe (2-in1 a/f and boost ftw!)

Primed the oil, with no fuel pump fuse so the car showed oil pressure. Put the fuse in and started it up.

Idled high (could be tune?) Really high - 2500 rpms
A/F was 12.1 or so (lean, I know)
After half a second, a scream started, a sound like multiple alternator belts squeaking, LOUD I turned off the engine and tried again, noting the rpm and a/f. Same result, and the turbo stopped faster than I expected.
Sound came from the turbo.Side of the engine and sounded like a bad bad bearing.

The turbo spins OK by hand, but doesn't stay spinning long. Minimal in out shaft play, and nearly no side to side play. No scraping sound, nothing. It probably spins 1/2 second after handbspin speed and maybe 2 seconds after turning off the engine (seems like it should be longer?). Turbo has been removed and I looked at all of it, no damage, no apparent scraping, blades look great.

Please tell me it's something other than me spending a crap ton of money on a new turbocharger.

I did not have the egr connected or blocked, just the old tube open under the FM manifold.... But that shouldn't make a terrible scream, right?

Help! Also, I feel like I learned a lot through the installation, did everything myself (clutch job with 18" stands would not be suggested), with some help from my dad who drove through multiple states to help me out. I really want to get this right and appreciate your suggestions. I can't post a video, but I have one of the lack of shaft play and free hand spin if it would help. Teach me, oh wise ones.
Old Jan 31, 2017 | 10:10 AM
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An AFR of 12 is rich for idle not lean, suppose its sorta ok on cold start.
Really high idle could be a vacuum leak of some sort, try adjusting the idle air screw as well?

The really high pitched sound could be something like a leaking BOV but that's just a guess. Would hope it's not the turbo lol
Old Jan 31, 2017 | 09:46 PM
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Thanks Jordan, I appreciate the feedback. I ordered the flyin Miata egr tube compatible with the manifold, so hopefully that fixes the high idle. All lines connected to what I t-eed into were replaced with new, so it shouldn't have been a vacuum leak. Hopefully the egr not being set up right was causing an unmanageable intake pressure.
i guess I'll put it all back together when the egr pipe comes in and start her up once again. And verify oil the oil in side having oil pressire, too.
If it still screams, anyone want a Garrett 2560 turbo to rebuild? I certainly don't have the means or skills to do anything like that!


If anyone else wants to chime in with thoughts, I'm all ears.
Old Jan 31, 2017 | 09:53 PM
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sure its not an exhaust leak?
Old Feb 1, 2017 | 09:19 AM
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In to take that turbo off your hands
Old Feb 1, 2017 | 10:13 AM
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If you're worried about the turbo, just make sure it's getting coolant flow and oil flow. That's really all it needs to be turning properly.
Old Feb 1, 2017 | 10:55 AM
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Why not just block off the EGR to make sure it isn't that?
Old Feb 12, 2017 | 03:23 PM
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Great news! The turbo lives! (Sorry @bronson m) I'm still not sure what made it carry on the way it did. After getting it all set back up, on the 4th or 5th startup, it just wasn't there. I wonder if there was something lodged in the water line or oil line near the bearing (YES, I DID make sure I had oil pressure before I started it both times. Also, The FM EGR tube for turbo manifolds was a pretty simple install once I got the nut off the FM manifold.
Thank you for all of your help, those of you who made suggestions.

Now just to figure out how to get the idle right ... here comes another post!




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