IHI identification....
10-25-2009, 08:57 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 1
IHI identification....
Hello all,
First post here.. I have bought a Miata 1.6 out of '99. It spends its first 11 years in the US and later on it was taken to europe. It is red and the paintwork is worn. There is no rust though, as the car must have been parked inside and had a hardtop on it.
The former owner didn't top up the oil in time and destroyed the engine. When I got it it was stuck. When I removed the head I could se the piston had been banging to the head as all the carbon was gone of the top of the piston where it came in contact with the head.
All and all I got this car increadibly cheap because of the engine failure. As I run a little company installing and tuning EMS systems (sort of MegaSquirt but more advanced in features) I thought it would be fun to put a turbo on it. But since I got the car for little money and I have the winter to spend some time on it, I decided to do it the cheap (and hard) way. I just wan't to find out if the Miata is good fun for the weekends to take the girlfriend out and discover Europe's twisty roads with the top down.
So a friend of mine had a IHI turbo laying around, brand new, that he gave me. I am thinking about buying the "ilovetacotaco" manifold as it seems to be a little better then the SS types. I do have to adapt it to the IHI flange as the manifold comes with an T3 flangue.
The aim is to boost it just a little as the diff and gearbox is still 1.6. The aim is to get just a little over the 1.8 specs to have enough torque to have fun. I could have installed a 1.8 too, but they are hard to find and very expensive over here. I had to shed up €1250 for only the 1.8 lump while I got a good 1.6l for €450.
So anywere between 150-180BHP will be plenty. In fact, I wan't torque.
I am in doubt if I realy need an intercooler. I think I do, just for the engine's sake.
But here I am with an IHI RHB5 turbo and I haven't got a clue what it is. The type plate isn't etched enough to read the specs back. It must be something like this:
TurboSpec: VQ15 9TK (very unclear)
RHB5 (this is clear)
Intake diameter is 39mm
intake outlet is 35mm
Typical square IHI flange on the manifold: 45mm exhaust hole, 56mm square bolt pattern.
The downpipe connection is missing. It has only 4 bolts to put in.
Wastegate is ~15mm
Exhaust (turbine diameter) is 45mm
Cast markings:
H
5ZH
52-
25-R
5
I haven't got a clue what I have in hands, maybe some of you folks know it it is good to use. If anyone knows an adaptorplate from T3 to IHI, please post a link. Also I need a flangue to make a downpipe. If I cannot find them I will make them myself.
If anyone could point me in the right direction for some info on this turbo, would be very nice !
Thanks for the help.
First post here.. I have bought a Miata 1.6 out of '99. It spends its first 11 years in the US and later on it was taken to europe. It is red and the paintwork is worn. There is no rust though, as the car must have been parked inside and had a hardtop on it.
The former owner didn't top up the oil in time and destroyed the engine. When I got it it was stuck. When I removed the head I could se the piston had been banging to the head as all the carbon was gone of the top of the piston where it came in contact with the head.
All and all I got this car increadibly cheap because of the engine failure. As I run a little company installing and tuning EMS systems (sort of MegaSquirt but more advanced in features) I thought it would be fun to put a turbo on it. But since I got the car for little money and I have the winter to spend some time on it, I decided to do it the cheap (and hard) way. I just wan't to find out if the Miata is good fun for the weekends to take the girlfriend out and discover Europe's twisty roads with the top down.
So a friend of mine had a IHI turbo laying around, brand new, that he gave me. I am thinking about buying the "ilovetacotaco" manifold as it seems to be a little better then the SS types. I do have to adapt it to the IHI flange as the manifold comes with an T3 flangue.
The aim is to boost it just a little as the diff and gearbox is still 1.6. The aim is to get just a little over the 1.8 specs to have enough torque to have fun. I could have installed a 1.8 too, but they are hard to find and very expensive over here. I had to shed up €1250 for only the 1.8 lump while I got a good 1.6l for €450.
So anywere between 150-180BHP will be plenty. In fact, I wan't torque.
I am in doubt if I realy need an intercooler. I think I do, just for the engine's sake.
But here I am with an IHI RHB5 turbo and I haven't got a clue what it is. The type plate isn't etched enough to read the specs back. It must be something like this:
TurboSpec: VQ15 9TK (very unclear)
RHB5 (this is clear)
Intake diameter is 39mm
intake outlet is 35mm
Typical square IHI flange on the manifold: 45mm exhaust hole, 56mm square bolt pattern.
The downpipe connection is missing. It has only 4 bolts to put in.
Wastegate is ~15mm
Exhaust (turbine diameter) is 45mm
Cast markings:
H
5ZH
52-
25-R
5
I haven't got a clue what I have in hands, maybe some of you folks know it it is good to use. If anyone knows an adaptorplate from T3 to IHI, please post a link. Also I need a flangue to make a downpipe. If I cannot find them I will make them myself.
If anyone could point me in the right direction for some info on this turbo, would be very nice !
Thanks for the help.
Reply
0
0
11-05-2009, 08:51 AM
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,645
Total Cats: 3,008
That turbo is originally for Daihatsu engines. This is a replacement parts list for that turbo. Some of it is in Spanish.
Ihi Model RHB52 - VQ15 Repair List - VH130071 reference - Turbos - TurboMaster
This is a partial master list for IHI RHB5 turbos-
RHB5 - Ihi - Catalog - TurboMaster
That is some of the good news.
The bad news is that is the wrong way to select an effective turbo for your engine's needs. I have two turbos in my possession that will not go on my car because they are not a good match for my engine size, desired powerband, and desired maximum power. You should do some serious studying of compressor maps, turbine maps, and look at the A/Rs and trim of that turbo before going to the trouble to adapt it to fit.
The really good news is that with ilovetacotaco's manifold and a properly matched $200 Chinese turbo, some proper engine management, a cheap intercooler, and a few other supporting mods, you can have some cheap reliable fun. The stock engine itself should be good for twice the stock horsepower with no internal strengthening if you run a good tune.
Good luck.
Put your location in your details so it shows up under your name. We have many from this forum in Europe. Someone may be local to you with some extra parts.
Ihi Model RHB52 - VQ15 Repair List - VH130071 reference - Turbos - TurboMaster
This is a partial master list for IHI RHB5 turbos-
RHB5 - Ihi - Catalog - TurboMaster
That is some of the good news.
The bad news is that is the wrong way to select an effective turbo for your engine's needs. I have two turbos in my possession that will not go on my car because they are not a good match for my engine size, desired powerband, and desired maximum power. You should do some serious studying of compressor maps, turbine maps, and look at the A/Rs and trim of that turbo before going to the trouble to adapt it to fit.
The really good news is that with ilovetacotaco's manifold and a properly matched $200 Chinese turbo, some proper engine management, a cheap intercooler, and a few other supporting mods, you can have some cheap reliable fun. The stock engine itself should be good for twice the stock horsepower with no internal strengthening if you run a good tune.
Good luck.
Put your location in your details so it shows up under your name. We have many from this forum in Europe. Someone may be local to you with some extra parts.
Reply
0
0
11-05-2009, 11:31 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 1
Hey, thanks ! This is good info. I might be able to see wether this turbo fullfill my needs. I wan't low end torque. But I am going to study on it.
Do you know if the ilovetacotaco turbo's are up to the job ? As $200 is maybe a better investment then to make an adaptor that is prone to leak. Also fabricating a downpipe would be harder as the weld-on adaptors are hard to get.
Usefull info ! I was looking at this kit but that is pure overkill ? It is €1200 and it wouldn't be a budget build anymore, in fact it would cost me more then the car:
Wiseco 78.5mm Forged Pistons pn K554M785
8.5:1 Compression Rating
Pistons come standard with Wiseco ArmorGlide® coating material for reduced friction and noise, freeing up horsepower.
Includes all necessary rings, wrist pins, and locks.
Set balanced to within +/- 1gram
Eagle ESP 4340 Forged Connecting Rods pn CRS5233M3D
Includes ARP 3/8” ARP2000 con rod bolts.
Cometic MLS (Multi-layer Steel) Headgasket pn C412-040
.040” (1mm) thickness
ARP Head Stud Kit pn 218-4701
8740 Chrome Moly Steel
200,000psi tensile strength
ARP Main Stud Kit pn 218-5401
8740 Chrome Moly Steel
200,000psi tensile strength
ACL Race Main Bearings pn 5M8353H
ACL Race Rod Bearings pn 4B8351H
ACL Thrust Washer pn 1T8353
Do you know if the ilovetacotaco turbo's are up to the job ? As $200 is maybe a better investment then to make an adaptor that is prone to leak. Also fabricating a downpipe would be harder as the weld-on adaptors are hard to get.
Usefull info ! I was looking at this kit but that is pure overkill ? It is €1200 and it wouldn't be a budget build anymore, in fact it would cost me more then the car:
Wiseco 78.5mm Forged Pistons pn K554M785
8.5:1 Compression Rating
Pistons come standard with Wiseco ArmorGlide® coating material for reduced friction and noise, freeing up horsepower.
Includes all necessary rings, wrist pins, and locks.
Set balanced to within +/- 1gram
Eagle ESP 4340 Forged Connecting Rods pn CRS5233M3D
Includes ARP 3/8” ARP2000 con rod bolts.
Cometic MLS (Multi-layer Steel) Headgasket pn C412-040
.040” (1mm) thickness
ARP Head Stud Kit pn 218-4701
8740 Chrome Moly Steel
200,000psi tensile strength
ARP Main Stud Kit pn 218-5401
8740 Chrome Moly Steel
200,000psi tensile strength
ACL Race Main Bearings pn 5M8353H
ACL Race Rod Bearings pn 4B8351H
ACL Thrust Washer pn 1T8353
Reply
0
0
11-05-2009, 12:39 PM
#6
That stinks.
I've been meaning to reply to this thread for a long time.
Depends on your goals...but basically if it says "IHI" and "RHB5" and it doesn't have the 4219 compressor on it then it's too small for more than about 10psi at redline. I'm overspinning mine right now and shift at 6500rpm (oh the beauties of MS and programmable soft rev limiter).
Almost all RHB5s have the 3991 compressor, which is great for spool and midrange power...but won't get you over 200whp without some real tricks up your sleeve(standalone ECU, WI). The exception to this is the T-bird compressor.
I am speaking of older OEM and kit applications...and am lost in the realm of Suby IHIs and don't know jack about diesel turbos since, like you said, they don't do us any good.
I've been meaning to reply to this thread for a long time.
Depends on your goals...but basically if it says "IHI" and "RHB5" and it doesn't have the 4219 compressor on it then it's too small for more than about 10psi at redline. I'm overspinning mine right now and shift at 6500rpm (oh the beauties of MS and programmable soft rev limiter).
Almost all RHB5s have the 3991 compressor, which is great for spool and midrange power...but won't get you over 200whp without some real tricks up your sleeve(standalone ECU, WI). The exception to this is the T-bird compressor.
I am speaking of older OEM and kit applications...and am lost in the realm of Suby IHIs and don't know jack about diesel turbos since, like you said, they don't do us any good.
Reply
0
0
11-08-2009, 02:29 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 1
I have a TD04-13C on my Volvo 242Turbo. On that 2.3 engine it is a bit small.. But on the 1.6 Mazda it would do good. Well... I can grab it cheap and it bolts up to the T3 flangue the TacoTaco manifold comes with after a little modification.. I don't think it will make inpressive numbers but my main goal is torque and quick spool times.
Thanks for the helpfull info.
The engine is all stripped down now and can be dipped into a bath to get clean and rehohn the liners. I think this engine has done ~60.000 miles and it is a little tired but it is not too bad. Just a little machining and new rings / bearings should do the trick.
I was dreaming away with all nice parts such as pistons, ARP stuff, steel gaskets, and so on. But I have trown it all overboard. This car was cheap and it needs to stay cheap.
Thanks for the helpfull info.
The engine is all stripped down now and can be dipped into a bath to get clean and rehohn the liners. I think this engine has done ~60.000 miles and it is a little tired but it is not too bad. Just a little machining and new rings / bearings should do the trick.
I was dreaming away with all nice parts such as pistons, ARP stuff, steel gaskets, and so on. But I have trown it all overboard. This car was cheap and it needs to stay cheap.
Reply
0
0
11-09-2009, 05:52 PM
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,645
Total Cats: 3,008
There are a couple of people here running a similar turbo to that one. The Pipefather and wrxnova are both using TD04L-13T turbos from Subaru WRX cars. The 13T is a newer compressor wheel design than the 13C in roughly the same size. That will be a nice size for the 1.6 I believe.
If you end up using that turbo the future upgrade path would be to send it to G-POP Shop to be upgraded to a larger 19T compressor wheel as someone here on the forum did recently.
BTW- What do you intend to modify slightly regarding the bolt pattern?
If you end up using that turbo the future upgrade path would be to send it to G-POP Shop to be upgraded to a larger 19T compressor wheel as someone here on the forum did recently.
BTW- What do you intend to modify slightly regarding the bolt pattern?
Reply
0
0
11-09-2009, 05:59 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 200
Total Cats: 1
The Volvo flange is t3 but isnt flat. So if you skim the turbine housing it should be a bolt-on. The 850/v70 t5's use a 16g. No one wan't the 13c's so I think I can get one cheap.
Reply
0
0
11-14-2009, 02:03 PM
#12
I'm Miserable!
iTrader: (16)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: where most people are Utarded
Posts: 1,296
Total Cats: 0
The 13t spools faster but has the same top end as a 15g, this is why Subaru used them and they are popular in the aftermarket. They just have that funky turbine inlet flange.
IHI, I have a brand new ILOVETACOTACO t3 manifold that I will never use that already has grade 8 mounting hardware and made to fit perfectly, PM me if you are interested.
IHI, I have a brand new ILOVETACOTACO t3 manifold that I will never use that already has grade 8 mounting hardware and made to fit perfectly, PM me if you are interested.
Reply
0
0
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
