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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 02-12-2012, 03:29 PM   #21
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I wouldn't bother with the timesert. If you're that worried about all of it either grind the housing or have the machine shop grind a bit off of the end of the stud.

It would definitely be possible to drill and tap the hole deeper, just not easy like everyone has already said. I wouldn't resort to a timesert though.

As for the guy not calling you.. he did what he was supposed to do. That's why drawings are such a big deal in machining. You have to be perfectly specific with cut that needs to be made, otherwise something won't be made right. I understand your frustration but I also understand why the situation ever came to be.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:49 PM   #22
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When I dropped this all off I was specific. I showed him the stud and instructions from trackspeed. I told him they needed to be seated in. It is also common knowledge studs go in to the neck. Any machinist worth the money you pay him should have drilled the hole bigger, MEASURED, and said wait.....this isn't right. A phone call to confirm is way easier than Fing something up. Anyone who has modded anything knows-Measure twice cut once. I worked in a shop years ago, it is not a huge issue to stop make a call and verify or have the secritary call and move to/get started another project for 15min. If nothing esle the few minutes he saved was lost in arguing with me about it.

Also to add to this. He fried the ecu on the CNC while starting to cut threads. This thing sat on the machine for a week with just holes in it. No one though "hey are the holes deep enough?" for a week. I should not have to hold a machinists hand. I don't blame him for not wanting to drill deeper, I do blame him for not calling me after and verifying if he can go farther while it sat for a week. Maybe this will shed more light on my irritation.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
This. However, and I don't really want to get into a machinist's argument with you, but I could see their lack of desire to do this. The chips coming up the flute of the drill can damage the threads, and it's fairly difficult to set your zero on a threaded hole. Yes the pin works, but I'd be weary. I've succeeded in doing it myself, I've also failed though.

Also, coaxial indicators suck :P

If it were me I'd honestly do it in a drill press. That's where the floppy tolerances of a drill press come in handy. The fixture, head, and bit will flex before the side of the drill can do much damage.

Edit: also, you very accurately described how to do it correctly. I'd be impressed if a job shop like that cared enough to do it right. There's too many *** holes in the world.
Edit2: If I were the machinist at that shop, you better believe I wouldn't drill any deeper than what's already there. Too much risk for breaking through the casting, making the remaining material too thin, etc, etc. I would have asked the customer 3 times in a row "how much deeper?", and that's only if he asked me to go deeper.
Definitely check the bottom tap first. If they're already tapped to the bottom of the hole I'd split the difference and do it on a Bridgeport... that's how I did my Bell manifold. Chips dicking up the threads shouldn't be a huge issue as cast iron just comes up as dust/granules rather than big ol chips, and an air gun blowing across the hole and a light hand on the drill and the iron bits come right up the flute holes. It's not like trying to redrill a tapped hole in alloy steel.

And for Curly... I like coax indicators :P (though in this case I agree with you, the pin would move and and be a PITA). I'd chuck up a straight transfer punch and set it up by eye/ear, that's as close as it needs to be.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:56 AM   #24
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For those who care-> I had my mani fixed. Went to the shop I should have gone to in the first place. Studs now sit full depth and they did not drill through to the ports. he said they did it by feel, by putting a finder in the port, drilling, and feeling for the heat coming from the bottom of the drill. Ya. Studs are installed with resbond and I lost one of the housing to outlet studs so ordered a full set to just replace them all. I do not want to take this apart until the motor blows. Hopefully the ported turbine housing, machine flanges, and TSE studs mean this will be true. I'll update if the housing falls off and pixies come out.

Edit: they fixed it for $20 and said they would have done it the first time for $30ish. If anyone wants to send me a mani for machining I'm more than happy to give ya a quote. Just understand they are over an hour each way for me, I go see my wifes mom every few weeks where the shop is, and it may take a bit for turn around time. Not making a special trip unless its worth my time. Gas money, hookers, blow, midget ****, or magic beans.
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:12 AM   #25
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Calling the customer is a sign of weakness. Good deal that you found a shop you're happy with though
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:42 AM   #26
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It's also a sign of "I'm not going to let you touch a single thing I own ever because you couldn't even install a stud correctly". it wasn't that they messed it up that truly bothers me. It's the attitude they had. Don't stand there and stick you finger in your belly button and tell me it's just a stud, it'll be fine. My fav shop took it and ran. Dude is even willing to deliver it/pick it up when he comes up on the second sat of the months to save me one of the drive.
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