I jumped on a used FMIII T25 manifold and downpipe for my 1.6 to replace the greddy. It's externally gated and looks amazingly like the BEGi S5. While I'm scratching my pennies together for a GT2871r, I've got a wee T25 to use for now, a Garrett 2522 .48/.49 #465749-5001. Dyno proven instant spool and 210 whp. It's of course internally gated. Normally, I'd just weld the flapper shut and call it a day, but I don't want to ruin the turbo for resale. So I need to find a new way to hold it shut.

I was thinking of adding a wg actuator and welding the rod stationary to the can (add an L bracket in there if need be). Opinions? Better solutions?

 

On the FMIII FM/Begi used a screw to hold the wastegate shut, on the one I saw it used an internally gated turbo. Friend has an FMIII and wasn't making boost. The screw had backed out.

 

Jay, you mean like a bolt that threads into the flange on the downpipe and contacts the flapper? If so, that's makes things easy, and I wish I had thought of that

 

No. The arm that the actuator usually connects to on the wastegate. Looks like they drilled a small hole next to it and used a sheet metal screw wedged against the arm to hold the arm closed.

If that makes ANY sense. Nice score on the manifold/turbo, I thought you refused to buy anything from FM after your Link disaster?

 

I see.

I gave FM another chance, since the price was right. It came with a Tial gate, which I needed to buy anyway. I can always re-sell it if need be.

Of course, it's been several days and I still haven't received a shipping notification. Hmm....

 

In their defense, I called FM and they said it shipped today.

Oh, FWIW, my shipping estimate when I ordered was $50. I told them I would pay no more than $30. I just looked and they billed my $30.11. Hmm...

 

put a turnbuckle on the WG arm instead of a WG.

 

yeah, that came to me too. might even use some flat stock or something. we'll see what's easiest once it's bolted up, but certainly it shouldn't be too tough.

 

Oh, you took that deal? Looked pretty nice when I sall it.

 

why not remove the external wastegate and get a block off plates for the mean time

 

dammit, I'm not going to downgrade from 250+ to 210 and not use the external gate. If it's going to be weak, I want all the spool I can get. I got some cams too.

 

no i mean a block off while you're on the little turbo...

edit: wait, why not just make sure the external gate's spring is more than the internal

 

I understood. I'm using the Tial. I don't care if it's the harder way. I want my divorced waste gasses.

 

you'll regain their functionaliy with the bigger turbo and no internal gate, but if you must...i don't think it will be worth anything on such a small turbo

 

I must. I don't think I can get a small 2871r without a gate. I'll probably weld that one up. I think that's what Y8s had to do for his 76r.

 

Ben, do yourself a favor and cut the wastegate pipe in half(ish), and then clamp it back together. If you ever need to remove the DP while the turbo/manifold is in the car you'll have a nearly impossible task because of where the external gate is. Cutting it in half will allow you to remove the main section of the DP with out having to **** with the wastegate.

 

A disconnected WG boost source will do what you want there ben the Can will keep it shut well into the 20 psi range or until you get a real non internal WG turbo.

 

the internal gate will probably crack open if left hooked to an operational actuator w/ no signal

 

Start a charge-back for the 0.11 on principle.

Mark

 

You mean a 2871R like this one?





Swapping into my car eventually.