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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 03-06-2008, 10:06 PM   #21
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^ oh no you di int.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:28 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by zebro racing View Post
no intercooler, right. But what difference does that make (appart from cooler air)? my BOV is something like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PURPL...spagenameZWDVW only mine has a second nipple on the non-colored part. somebody (brainiack i think) told me that the other nipple was to help open the BOV quicker, should i run the vac line from between the TB and turbo to this nipple? as far as i can tell the BOV is closed at idle but im not sure as it is being recirced (between the AFM and turbo, naturally). when im driving and i let off the throttle i can hear a whoosh, but it also made that noise before the BOV (only its a bit quieter now with the BOV). apart from running it withouth the recirc tube to the intake how can i tell if its functioning properly?
i should tell you that i have the BOV at its loosest setting (ie. the top screw as far out as possible).
you say i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost im pushing but the wastegate actuator on my turbo is a 6-7psi actuator off a volvo, are you saying that i cant trust the actuator to limit the boost to 6-7psi?
btw whaaamx5 thats not a pacifier you hear me sucking on, its you wife's tit.
(whaaamx5: at this point im just giving you back **** for kicks, dont take it personal, its ment in fun)
mmmmmm tities

i would like to give you a friendly tip. please park your car before you can sort out what is what because if you don't know what the intercooler is good for you may mess up your engine. if you increase timing without a intercooler you may be in big trouble. read the sticky on DIY turbo kit. also you need to figure out how to work the BOV. it is rather important. if you don't have an BOV you should not hear the woosh sound. that is certain. getting the basics down before testing is vital you don't want to mess an engine up. lets start from scratch and return all the vacuums to stock and go from there. i would redo it if i was you to eliminate uncertainties.i know it may sound dumb but it may be worth it. good luck
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebro racing View Post
btw whaaamx5 thats not a pacifier you hear me sucking on, its you wife's tit.
(whaaamx5: at this point im just giving you back **** for kicks, dont take it personal, its ment in fun)
mmmmmm tities
I like this guy... HE STAYS!!!

Zebro, update your profile with where you live... somebody on this board might be local and can come over tomorrow and hook it up.

In either case, I think the people telling you to park your car are right. The wastegate spring can be trusted to be no tighter than stock, so you probably aren't running more than 6-7psi. But there are so many other things horribly fucked up, you're gonna hurt it. There may be other things wrong that you're not telling us simply because you don't know any better. Park it before you blow it... good advice.

What you really need is somebody who knows how to properly set up a turbo system... not a shop or a pro, but somebody local to you that you trust who has done a few and can just come over and look at it and route the hoses/lines properly.

You absolutely need a boost gauge.
You absolutely need to check your timing and see where it's at.
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Old 03-06-2008, 10:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebro racing View Post
you say i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost im pushing but the wastegate actuator on my turbo is a 6-7psi actuator off a volvo, are you saying that i cant trust the actuator to limit the boost to 6-7psi?

Correct!!!!!!!!!

here a few reason you need a boost guage

First you have to worry that you actuator may not be opening enough and cause you to get a boost spike, which could blow up your motor.

Second if you have a boost leak then you may not be making the boost you need and could over spinning your turbo causing it to die early.

Third a gauge will tell you if something start to go wrong before it takes out your motor.

I got a boost gauge in my car with a turbo cause I been using it as a vacuum gauge to help spot problems before the turbo.
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:14 AM   #25
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not easily offended here, only cause i dont have a wife though...she left me for your mother but we still play, the three of us lol

but yeah, park car until you get a gauge, just trust, its not worth it
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Old 03-07-2008, 12:45 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebro racing View Post
you say i need a boost gauge to tell me how much boost im pushing but the wastegate actuator on my turbo is a 6-7psi actuator off a volvo, are you saying that i cant trust the actuator to limit the boost to 6-7psi?
You are not allowed to post again until you get a boost gauge.
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Old 03-07-2008, 03:47 PM   #27
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^+1 you're best bet would be to have some sort of device to allow you to read your numbers. guessing and self calculations are usually bad ideas, especially when you "think" it's doing one thing, but really doing another.
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:18 PM   #28
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you dont want to know what i had to do to get my hands on a camera to take these pics. needless to say she was nasty. whaaamx5 i think you know her. she did after all give birth to you.

white string is wraped around the vac line being discussed.

lets call this pic T1. the line with the string goes to the boost gauge (boost gauge is busted). the other end of the T is in the next pic and goes to the miata specific MSD "boost controller"


other end of T1.


the vac line off T1 going into the firewall, this line goes to the boost gauge (that does not work)


we will refer to this T as T2. the branch (line) with the string on it goes to the BOV. the other end goes to the canister purge solenoid valve (next pic)


this is the line coming off T2 connecting to the canister purge solenoid valve
(shown in pic)


disregard the string on the left. the BOV is off T2


the red coupler (blurry) connects to the TB. the black tube angles straight down. the vac line with the string goes... well i dont know where the hell its supposed to go. on the old aerodyne setup it ran to the waste gate. i should also add that the nipple where this line connects to the tube is blocked up (not sure if its on purpose).


CARTECH fuel reg. should this line be open to the atmosphere?


BOV, its not pretty but it works.


showing the two nipples coming off the BOV. its kinda hard to get a camera in there.


THE BIG PICTURE


btw this is what an aerodyne looks like


whaaamx5's mom in her younger years. (this is where i got the camera). i dont really want to talk about it!

whaaamx5-> <-me

Last edited by zebro racing; 03-07-2008 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:45 PM   #29
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What the hell are we supposed to be looking at?
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Old 03-07-2008, 07:47 PM   #30
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You really do need a boost guage. Even a home-depot, air compressor pressure guage or bike pump guage would work, but you need to know where you're at.

I'd say remove the BOV entirely, and block off every port that doesn't go between the turbo and the intake. If you have an air compressor, blow air in and listen for leaks.

You definately CAN blow up your motor in 1 second of something going wrong, do you don't want to make assumptions, and a boost guage will help you out of many of the situations that can cause problems.

Does the turbo spin freely? Can you feel air blowing in or out anywhere when it's running? If you blip the throttle under the hood, does the BOV vent?

<edit> you could pull the hose off the far end of the BOV and check for leaks when it shouldn't, check for blowing when it should.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:13 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
What the hell are we supposed to be looking at?
uhhh.........my mom? im not sure you would want to...
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:48 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
You really do need a boost guage. Even a home-depot, air compressor pressure guage or bike pump guage would work, but you need to know where you're at
will this actually work?
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:57 PM   #33
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Zebro... you're gonna blow your **** up unless you get a boost gauge. Go to ******* Pep Boys and spend $30 on the cheapest Sunpro one they've got.

Now, the long one I've circled seems to be connected to nothing on both ends. Remove it... just adds confusion.

The one I've boxed... what's it connected to up on the fender?

And for shizzle, will somebody near Tallahassee go see what's wrong with this car?!!
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:05 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Zebro... you're gonna blow your **** up unless you get a boost gauge. Go to ******* Pep Boys and spend $30 on the cheapest Sunpro one they've got.
planning on doing it here directly. i taced the vac line out of my current (non-working)boost gauge, gauge is getting vacume, its just broke, but i had to be sure.

ill get back to you on the boxed line

out of curiousity will a tire pressure gauge work?
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Old 03-07-2008, 10:23 PM   #35
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The one I've boxed... what's it connected to up on the fender?

And for shizzle, will somebody near Tallahassee go see what's wrong with this car?!!
that line doesnt go into the fender, its just a really long vac line, it goes to the boost gauge, there used to be a T for it to also connect to the cruise control; but thats gone now. that line now goes dircetly and solely to the boost gauge.

and yes, anyone near tallahassee who could help would be great.

given the pictures, does it look like there is anything connected to the wrong place or what?

this may not help except to add to the confusion, but unless my gas gauge is wrong, ive eaten up a half tank and only put 60ish miles on the tank (not even taking it above 3k rpms)

Last edited by zebro racing; 03-07-2008 at 10:36 PM.
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Old 03-08-2008, 04:42 PM   #36
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the lines connected can stretch to new york if you want trimm the fuckeres a bit less confusion. i am following a line that goes over under some other and loose track. damn you are doing some crazy loops and **** here. less is sometimes better.
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Old 03-09-2008, 04:29 AM   #37
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the lines connected can stretch to new york if you want trimm the fuckeres a bit less confusion. i am following a line that goes over under some other and loose track. damn you are doing some crazy loops and **** here. less is sometimes better.
theres no denying the truth. im leaving them slack and everything else generally sloppy (but functional) till i figure it all out. then ill make it elegant.

for anyone thats following: i bought a boost gauge today (auto meter) but it was broken from the store. the old one works but it says im pulling vacuume below 4k rpm and 4psi after (needless to say its broke). ill get a new one tomorrow or monday. is it worth spending the extra few buck to get a boost gauge that read vac and boost? how accurate can i expect a mechanical gauge to be?

thanks to everyone whos trying to help. even you whaaamx5.

p.s. is strange that my exhaust manifold and exhaust housing on the turbo glow red when the car is driven HARD? (glowing is perceived at night)
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Old 03-09-2008, 12:47 PM   #38
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Why would you just assume it's broken? If you have a large boost leak like I and others have been suggesting those may be accurate numbers. Do a boost leak test.

Yes that is normal, but you should not be driving the car hard, or at all until you solve this issue.
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:21 PM   #39
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Why would you just assume it's broken? If you have a large boost leak like I and others have been suggesting those may be accurate numbers. Do a boost leak test.

Yes that is normal, but you should not be driving the car hard, or at all until you solve this issue.
youre right, the old gauge is not broken. i installed a new auto meter gauge today and it reads the same. i assumed it was broken because i thought id be pushing more boost, like 7psi. does everyone have their boost gauge T-ed off their intake mani? does anyone have it T-ed before the TB?

i let a friend drive my car the other day and apparently its not all that down on power. i just thought it would have more.

now that i have a boost gauge; how should i adjust my BOV?
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Old 03-10-2008, 01:44 AM   #40
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found it! one of the old couplers was split. i found it when i noticed the rad fan spinning even when the fan was off. much improved now.
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