Last minute check.
 

turbo bolted on.. lock tite all the bolts.. check
turbo lines all tightly fitted... check
all lines and hoses are tight....check
fresh oil in motor...check


Q's.
poured some oil through the oil feed into the turbo?
Anything i'm forgetting before turning her on?



:crx::magna::inout:

Did you refill the radiator?
How about reconecting the battery?

Check. on the battery...



regarding the radiator.. how do I burp the system? Also should I go with distilled water + coolant 70/30?

sounds like you're ready but list the details of your setup maybe someone will think of something. maybe have someone ready with a fire extinguisher

LC1
Emanage Blue
T25 (Sr20)
HKS mani
Custom over the rad FMIC
Custom 3" DP
310 cc's
godspeed rad
umm dno what else i'm missing.

turn key so accesories are on and fuel pump running and check for leaks around the injectors

Check. I'm at work making a list to hopefully get her going 2nite. Still gotta finish up the Intake and finish the rad mounts.

There's not much science to burping the system. Everyone seems to have a slightly different procedure.

Personally, I just give the upper hose a few good, solid squeezes while I'm filling the radiator, then cap the system and make sure the overflow tank is full up to the "full" line. Then drive the car for a while (enough to cycle the thermostat) and let 'er cool down. Repeat once or twice, and the system will pretty much purge itself, drawing coolant out of the overflow tank each time it cools down.


So, EMB & 310cc injectors, no AFPR, but a 3" DP and a serious FMIC. How much power / boost are we planning on, here? (and BTW, what are the specs on an SR20's turbo? I've never seen one.)

Power wise.. i'm not shooting for anything big anywhere from 200-250whp if possible. I just want something with some tq to get me through the twisties. IIRC my turbo is .80 A/R intake.. .64 A/R in the exhuast. Also known as T25g or .. GT2554R I believe.

your turbo is a good choice for those goals but your fueling setup is not, with 310cc injectors i wouldn't suggest more than 7-8 psi. btw your turbo isn't BB like a gt2554r

Right..it is a journal bearing.. but the specs line up with that. And regarding the fuel.. I just don't know about this fuel. Would a FPR + 190 LHP help?:magna:

yes an afpr so raise your fuel pressure should get you enough fuel. i came from a band-aided emb setup with an afpr and 305cc injectors to a mspnp and really crappy tune and picked up 50whp at the same boost.

Flushed the oil pan for shavings from drilling/tapping?

Tightened clamps/couplers etc...

ignition timing
correct octane fuel

This i've been having a problem with. I'm not quite sure how to flush it correctly. Any advice guys/scott?

Hey Pakman, are you using a restrictor on your oil feed line?

I don't believe so.

Attachment 214726

Is that -5AN line?

when you first fire it up have someone hold the compressor wheel still for about a minute...i forget why this is important but i assume it has to do with oil getting throught the cartridge and bearing before the wheel starts spinning, it wont hurt anything, just dont rev the motor, but you wouldnt do that anyways right? lol

I've got a fitting that goes into the block where the SS line screws onto

To be honest with you.. I tried and tried.. and I still don't know SHIT about these fittings and hoses. Those -10AN numbers mean nothing to me lol. I'm sorry I wish I could help.

Doesn't matter to me really, it just looks bigger than my own -4AN feed line.
How did you attach the other end of your coolant lines to the coolant system on the engine? Curious if you used threaded fittings on a T or what.

Thats important because the T25 needs to have a .065 restrictor in the line or else its seals will blow.

I went to the SR20 forums and did my research, they all run .065 restrictors on the T25's.

You don't Have to run a restrictor but you can easily run one. I don't run one myself on my t25 and i'm fine. Some people have trouble with their turbo's smoking, if the turbo isn't smoking don't bother. If it smokes a little then get yourself a 1/8" aluminum pop rivet and install it between two -AN fittings. It will reduce the max oil pressure seen at the turbo by about 7 psi and might stop the smoking. Then you can try and source an appropriate restrictor in the meantime.

It's an SS line that ends with a bee stinger looking thing like this.

http://i9.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/c9/95/1765_1.JPG


Then I have a 3" rubber line that goes on this bee stinger and the water pump

That is interesting sam something I definately did not know.

I havent flushed my oil pan yet, so hopefully these guys will clarify.
But from what I understand, u get soem mineral spirits (home depot, paint section), and poor it down the oil drain line (from where it connects to turbo).
It'll go down the line, and since its connected to drain pan, it will flush the shavings to the back, where u can drain...I believe u need to repeat till done, and then maybe 1 more time with a cheapass motor oil as itll be wasted...

But let someone here confirm this before u do it as I still havent done it...

And my dumbass friend tells me the oil filter will pick it all up lol.

Drill and tap the pan, flush it out with cheap generic oil or mineral spirits, do not leave the shavings in the pan.
If you heavily grease the drill and tap and go slow you won't get that many shavings in the pan to begin with.

Damn it... Looks like i've got my work cut out for me.. still got another 2-3 hours of work till I can start filling up all the fluids

What are you using as an adapter for the compressor outlet and inlet? ATP? Ouch $$$. Those SR20 T25s seem to have a weird shape to them.

That is perfect, now I know what I'll be using.

Wooohoo, i may have finally contributed something useful to this forum!!!
Im always asking and asking...
seriously tho good luck on the key turning ceremony

You know what.. hold on i'll take a pic of the inlet. The outlet I bought off someone on clubroadster.net But instead of buying it.. you can grind off the outlet and just slap on a 90 degree 2"-2.5" silicone hose.


Attachment 214723
Attachment 214724


Retail costs about $60 I believe. I made this under $2. Just make sure the bottom where it bolts onto the turbo is flush so no air escapes. :hustler:

Also.. regardless if its pretty ugly it won't really matter much as there will be a silicon hose covering the entire thing.

lol trust me i've done my share of asking questions.. i'd be surprised if scott has any hair left lol:vash:


But regarding the oil pan.. I already bought cheap oil and flushed it the best I can a few days ago.. I feel there is still stuff left in there though.. can this be fatal?

Here's a good reference doc on AN fittings:

http://www.amfmotorsports.com/update5/adapters.pdf

And on hose fittings:

http://www.shadowracing.com/goodridge.pdf

Man i dunno if u wanna risk it. Id assume itd be pretty critical to not have that kind of debris in there..Why not flush it again till u dont have anything in there?

To bad he's not a dumbass, the shavings will never get off the bottom of the pan and if they by some miracle do they will never get passed the oil pickup and if by another miracle they do then the filter will stop them.

It's unlikely to cause harm.

There is a fine mesh screen on the end of the oil pickup tube where it goes down to the bottom of the pan. This is designed to filter out any large particles that might damage the oil pump. So this screen will stop most of the debris. The screen is quite large (several inches in diameter) so it's also unlikely to be obstructed by whatever small quantity of shavings are stopped by it.

Any shavings that are tiny enough to get through the screen (which is very unlikely) will cause no harm to oil pump and will be trapped by the oil filter before they enter the engine.

Sounds good.. thanks Joe & Sam