Got an idea, why not use the PS pump as an oil pump for the turbo? Sure you'll have to run 2 lines to the rear of the vehicle but you wont have to get a new pump.

The Tilton pump will do the job. Taylor racing in Dallas. It is a diaphragm type pump. Bet Northern equipment has a diaphragm pump for $60 that would work. if the turbo is above the trunk lid and drains downward, if needed make a cooler out of a scrap IC core, put a pan under it and pump out of the pan.

The cooler is probably not needed and oil probably won't hurt the dia. If so, change the diaphragm.

Corky

Bingo. I am not sure how the tech inspection guys will view this, but just put the damned thing really high up to be sure. They allowed a giant ski-wing at BFE and that damned thing was waving in my face like a big 'How to Die via Impalement' exhibit. And it was pretty fricken cool.

If they get antsy from a flamable liquid/leaks perspective, just enclose the whole mess in a mild steel pipe.

Whatever else, the "dumping oil on the track" idea is the worst fucking one yet. This is not Spy Hunter.

That being said, it would be hilarious if someone had such a setup and managed to spin themselves into a wall when they hit their own slick on the second lap.

I am still trying to figure out what will be the best reliable and cost effective way to do this. The idea of combining it all to make one system that will last for an entire race without screwing something up and using a separate oiling system with a cheap pump that could fail at any time both make me timid about this.

The rules say that gauges to monitor necessary engine vitals are exempt, so I wonder I would think an AFR gauge would possibly covered under that. Maybe.

some friends of mine made a ghetto turboed ls1 200sx.. with a high, rear mount turbo..


it worked fine, and lasted a full season of drifting, no problems..

later fine honed until the "finished" project you see here..

http://bilder.driftfun.no/d/176463-4...9_IMG_2795.JPG


i think its a great idea for a lemons car to rear mount it :D

That dyno is epic. On a side note, how about some wiring control? lol

:2cents:

Gen2 MR2 uses an electric PS pump, right? Should be plenty of those in the junkyard. It should have plenty of lift, plus its designed to move dino based juice already. I would be surprised if the pump cost more than the fittings to install it.

That, or random PS pump bolted to PPF belt driven off the driveshaft.

Whatever you do: in4pics

I like the electric ps pump idea. Who knows, it might be cheaper than the material for a long return pipe.

We are still kicking this idea round, but the closer it gets to our Feb 11/12 race, the less likely it looks. We still have a fair amount of stuff left to do on the car before it is ready to race again.

If that's cheerio's T25, you better do something cool with it. You swooped in on it while I was driving to work :rofl:

P/S pump idea would work great, also i think alot of electric fuel pumps will work for oil.

Bilge pump from a boat.

A separate oil system would require a cooler, also. Starting to get expensive.

transmission oil cooler from junker, dirt cheap
mounted in front, but lower than turbo for gravity drain
then drain to metal reservoir on top of trunk
[may need a gate valve in the drain line to slow the oil circulation through the cooler]

use a hot water heater catch pan under the entire setup for leaks

put oil temperature sensor in reservoir to second oil temp gauge in cockpit
electric PS pump for pumping oil to the turbo

:idea:

So superchargers use their own little reservoir of oil that doesn't recirculate. Is heat the reason that turbos don't do this? If it is, how often would you need to change the oil by using a s S.C. type oil system? If it burns up slow enough you could possibly just drain and fill at fuel stops.

I think if I had a decent sized reservoir tank(2-3 quarts), the heat really wouldn't be much of an issue.

this is the reservoir I used for my air-2-water set-up; and will work with oil

http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...ducts_id=16948

not saying to buy this, but anyone handy with welder and some scrap plate should be able to fab something usable

Seems like there is not brake on the dyno. The guy should fit an retarder on the propshaft. This way you put barely any load to the engine. The idea is quite good. I actually know a company that does more or less professional dyno services with the rear axle of a van. I think the truck axle is even better. I is a simple way to get large drums connected and spinning. Very clever.

On the other hand... I bought my dyno for little on E-bay.

it has brakes:)