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Old 10-09-2006, 05:27 AM   #1
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Default Link maps?

I am looking for a base line map that is for a 6 PSI setup (on the stock can) for a GT25R (aka GT28) with stock injectors. Car is a 1.8L 97.

All of the maps that I can find are for 440 or bigger injectors.

DB
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Old 10-09-2006, 05:43 AM   #2
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Just drop your fuel a certain number of points across the board (try 10 to start with) and see if your car pings. If not, drop it another 2 points and try again.

The best suggestion I have for you is to go ahead and spend the money on a WBO2 sensor. You can look at my webpage (which will be down for a few days) on how to set up WB for less than $200. Having the correct tuning will do wonders for a 6 PSI car.
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Old 10-09-2006, 09:56 AM   #3
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My guess is you're going to want to raise the fuel since the injectors are smaller and flow less. The easiest way to adjust the map is to raise/lower the master fuel number. Start with a base map, drive around and look at the a/f in the na rows and adjust apporpriately. That will do the same for the boosted rows. - rob
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Old 10-09-2006, 10:43 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info guys - loaded TURBO 1 map and then raised the Mater Fuel by about 50 points! Car idles now. Getting the exaust put in today so will start proper mapping hopefully on the drive home from the exaust shop. Now just to get my hands on a wide band.....

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Old 10-09-2006, 04:33 PM   #5
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OOPS, yeah, I meant raise the fuel (I posted that at 5AM after being up all night <G>)...
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:45 PM   #6
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Ok, so Master Fuel is now 140, changed all of the choke settings to the same as 1.8 NA OEM, Injector offset and Injector offset slope are all changed to 1.8 NA OEM and I am adding 55 points of fuel accross the board to make sure I am not lean. From this point I will start mapping.

DB
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Old 10-10-2006, 04:12 PM   #7
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You don't need to raise the master AND the fuel- it's redundant. Raising the Master Fuel IS raising the entire fuel map. The advantage to doing only the Master is that you will be able to get the entire fuel map close enough to begin coarse tuning without having to go through and raise the fuel in every zone. I highly recommend using Plink and a Palm with Data Log Lab for your tuning. It makes everything much easier ONCE you've learned it. - rob
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Old 10-12-2006, 06:30 AM   #8
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Well Rob, you are correct. I got a new base map from Jeremy at FM and that has the master fuel back at 100. Car idles nicely and pulls well so tuning can start.

The injectors are small for this - they are maxing out (99%) at WOT but they are allowing the car to get to 6 PSI and it is very, very smooth.

Still waiting untill the weekend to start the tunining proper.

DB
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:13 AM   #9
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Maxing out your injectors at WOT is a dangerous line to walk. What happens if air density goes up... from say a cold spell? You can buy larger used injectors that will work - all day long for under $100. I highly recommend upgrading if you already now your stock injectors are maxed out.
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:40 AM   #10
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Hummm had not thought about that... Guess I will be getting those new low impedence 550s sooner than I had anticipated!
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Old 10-12-2006, 11:17 AM   #11
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did you see this?

I realize that high impedance 550s are not ideal, but they are cheap and easy. A lot of Miatas run rx7 550, 460 and 440s w/o issue. And you've got a programmable ecu which makes things even easier.
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:10 PM   #12
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Well there is little price difference between the two, is there some reason that I should look at the high impedence ones? I was simply going to get the low 550s from FM - $385 on their site.

DB
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Old 10-12-2006, 12:36 PM   #13
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I think it depends on the year Link ECU you have. I think The "obwan???" link uses peak and hold (low impedance) injectors while the standard link uses saturated (high impedance) injectors. FM used to (still does?) ship low impedance 550's with resistor boxes on their FM2 1.8 kits.

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Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
The one's in this link are low impedance. Again, if you have an older (or any 1.6) link ecu you'd need the resister pack to run these injectors.

Or just call FM they'd be more than willing to sell you the right stuff.
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Old 10-12-2006, 02:40 PM   #14
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thanks tim- I thought they all ran high ohm and obviously I didn't pay attention to the link. My injectors ran me $200 for four 550 rx7 high ohm cleaned. Recently others are reporting half that price with cleaning from witch hunter.
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:20 PM   #15
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Well I sucked it up and got a matched set of 550 cc injectors... so that has solved one problem, and of course now given me some new ones

Ah well...

DB
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Old 10-17-2006, 01:53 PM   #16
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If you picked up a set of RCs, the defaults should work well for you. It's using items outside of those used for setting up the defaults that creates more hurdles- like the rx7 injectors. But most of this is documented, or available from FM support. Think of your project as learning experience and you'll be all the better for it - trust me.
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Old 10-19-2006, 02:36 PM   #17
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Well have the RC 550s in and running finally and now things are looking a bit better. Lots of tuning to do to start to see the good numbers, and man I need an intercooler in there to cover some of the temps that I am starting to see. Ah well, more tinkering over the weekend!

DB
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Old 10-19-2006, 09:53 PM   #18
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Intercoolers are cheap! $100 on eBay. AndyFloyd did his entire setup for $300 and he says it quality. You could go cheap on the pipes and used exhaust tubing.
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Old 10-22-2006, 09:36 AM   #19
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Yeah, I am working on putting together an intercooler setup now - intake temps can easily spike to 100 degrees... bummer.

Looking at doing a hybrid intercooler setup - over the top of the radiator down to the intercooler and then from the bottom back up to the intake. Will post pics later showing how I am getting on - for those interested!

DB
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