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Originally Posted by 90LowNSlo
(Post 1500826)
Still on the fence about doing the valve guide seals...
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1500892)
While the engine is out, you're 90% of the way towards rebuilding the head. If you send it off, you can get it hot tanked so it looks fresh, skimmed so it's ready for a new head gasket, have the valves checked for a good seal, and replace the stem seals at the same time. This all would cost less than $300 at the local machine shop, possibly even less than $200, and would give you peace of mind that you've replaced everything on the motor except bearings and rings.
It also sounds like he can't have the car down for that long. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1500892)
While the engine is out, you're 90% of the way towards rebuilding the head. If you send it off, you can get it hot tanked so it looks fresh, skimmed so it's ready for a new head gasket, have the valves checked for a good seal, and replace the stem seals at the same time. This all would cost less than $300 at the local machine shop, possibly even less than $200, and would give you peace of mind that you've replaced everything on the motor except bearings and rings.
Originally Posted by SpartanSV
(Post 1500894)
The $300 would be much better spent toward a 1.8 diff and axles IMO. It's easy enough to pull the head later and the seals can be done with the head on.
It also sounds like he can't have the car down for that long. |
I started rebuilding the turbo yesterday... everything says should take about 30mins. I allotted 2 hours to the task, and 4 hours later it still wasn't apart >_< I couldn't for the life of me get the exhaust side and the CHRA separated. I gave it a little penetrating shot and still wouldn't budge. I used my one pound persuader to wedge some flatheads in the grove and it moved about 4mm. Then the flatheads broke... local guy said try heat so I'ma take it to work and hit it lightly with a torch. I started out being as gentle as possible but I'm at the "awe fuck it" point now. Even the snap ring for the compressor housing was stuck and wouldn't come loose with out penetrating oil either, which meant cleaning it thoroughly which was more time spent. After giving up on the exhaust side I hit the compressor housing with a wire brush and it came out nice and shiny. So there's that I guess... |
I used a nut/bolt combo as a tiny jack to push the turbine housing off the chrap |
I picture a Lego construction crew all around working on it lol.
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A blow torch, penetrating oil, and a good 1/2 wrench that has been ground down to fit both open end and box end(SIX POINT), a rubber mallet, lots of beer and patience will get the turbo apart.
After much aggravation rebuilding my first turbo i will promptly never do it again. |
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What's the fluid you've puked all over the floor?
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Originally Posted by huesmann
(Post 1503204)
What's the fluid you've puked all over the floor?
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It's highly likely that black spatter is a stain... or more oil... I didn't drain the pan but Im thinking it lost at least 1/2 quart sitting on the lift this weekend.
And it lost some more coolant when it was lowered. Its sitting on the pan now but all the weight is being held by the lift points. The engine stand is visible but not reachable >_<. Tonight I'm going to clean up my mess/tools and maybe get it on the stand... Ive got three phone repairs I need to stop putting off. I'm thinking someone has serviced the trans/diff semi recently. The shifter had no bushing at all but the fluid was mostly fresh. The PPF bolts weren't terrible, and the hangers for the exhaust look fresh. Did everything with hand tools and only needed a cheater bar for the down pipe bolts. Total man hours involved is probably about 8-10. Thus was my first ever engine pull and I was mostly alone. Hopefully have it back in thurs/fri and have MS running this weekend... wish me luck |
Developments.
Got the trans separated, which required a blow torch as one of the trans bolts stripped. Got the engine on a stand after two trips to the hardware store for bolts. Also found out that I'm installing MS when the engine goes in... someone pointed out a wire that had broken when removing the engine. "Only a single wire, probably nothing important." It's the wire to the O2 sensor. Ripped clean out of the sensor. So I'll likely start it up with the stock ecu, make sure all is well, and then install the MS. (I'll run the wires and vacuum line before hand) I'm going to tap the oil pan while I'm replacing the seal. Is there a better place to tap at since it will be off or should I just go with the front drivers side per usual? |
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