90LowNSlo

I'm after more power. I'm not trying to make a track monster or run vetts at the strip.... I'm just tired of getting passed by mini vans

I bought the car as a cheap street legal go kart. I wast after a Miata when looking for a car but it fit the bill perfectly, fun to drive with out the fear of it breaking down every other week end. Its a 1990 NA6 that is mostly stock. The kid i bought it from lowered it on some cheap coils but other than that its bone stock. It has TWO HUNDRED AND EIGHTY THOUSAND MILES ON IT. I bought it for $1600. I bought this particular one because its only had three previous owners and the first two keep receipts for everything and kept a journal for the miles per gallon at nearly every fill up. I figured the kid only had two years so how much damage could have done? I test drove this one and two others on the same day, and this one ran, drove, and felt the best on the road. I'm happy with it, after nearly a year of ownership the only issue I have is a slight oil leak and recently a small idle issue. I cleaned the under side of the car to try and find the leak and no more oil has shown. I'm pretty sure checking the oil daily was removing more oil from the system the the leak was between changes. I think I've almost got the idle issue sorted. My goal power wise is between 150 and 200 hp, enough to cut through some traffic but not so much I have to rebuild the entire car (hopefully right?). I am not planning on a 1.8 swap or tranny swap. I would really like to keep the original engine mostly for high millage boosted bragging rights, if it has any issue however down the road where it would be more costly to upgrade/repair than a 1.8 swap that's the point where I would be willing to do so. This is my daily driver but I don't need this car. My wife and I live 7mi from work and its not a big deal to drop the wife off on the way to work and use her car (which we did for over a year).

I have been doing my homework and I think I know what I'll need to make this happen. The major stuff anyways, some the the fine details I'll still need more research on (oil line sizes, how to route coolant lines etc). I do want to keep the cost down on this where possible, I'm not going to be buying any Ebay clutches, but I am going to be using Ebay radiator and ChinaCharger (sorry). I found this sweet ebay turbo kit for $200, will it work? I'M KIDDING, PLEASE NO FLAME Here's what I've come up with, none of this is set in stone but I won't be buying any multi-thousand dollar parts. What I have found I'm hoping is a decent balance of cost and functionality. Items are listed more or less in the order I plan to buy and or install them in:

Engine Management and Clutch:
Megasquirt $350 (already bought) : https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...4/#post1393067 https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...4/#post1393075
I know I have to have MS. I was planning on a DIY kit but I saw this and jumped on it. I've been PM'ing the seller and he seems like an awesome guy and he threw in some extras.

Clutch $400 + flyweel: https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-1-clutch.html
Again, another part that I know I absolutely can't cheap out on. I'm planning on running either a stock 1.8 flywheel or used 1.8 light flight wheel.

Turbo Preparation:
Radiator $130:
Spark plugs ~$30: I haven't actually researched these so I'm not sure if this is the right size but i keep seeing "NGK 7 plugs" every where.

Coils $50: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1ZZFE-Toyota-Ignition-Coil-Packs-Denso-90080-19015-Celica-Corolla-MR2-1-8l-OEM/262467283335?epid=655194144&hash=item3d1c44e987:g: n3cAAOSwjVVV1RRd:sc:USPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRate Envelope!42025!US!-1&vxp=mtr

Injectors $100: https://www.ebay.com/itm/550CC-Fuel-Injectors-for-EVO-7-8-9-RX-7-FC3S-13B-20B-4AGE-4G63T-52lb-Free-Clips/231444671138?fits=Year%3A1989%7CModel%3ARX-7&hash=item35e32d6aa2:gMYAAOSwXeJYJpgd:sc:USPSPr iority!42025!US!-1&vxp=mtr#rwid
This is the thing I am the least sure about. I read the sticky about different injectors that fit. I do know I will be running rx7/8 injectors in the 440cc to 550cc range.

Boost and AFR Gauges ~$360: Another thing I don't want to cheese out on. I know I need reliable readings and AEM is a good company. I think these are probably the cheapest gauges that I won't have to worry about. I'm also vain enough to want them to match...

Turbo Time:
T3/4 ChinaCharger $400: https://www.ebay.com/itm/T3-T4-T04E-57-AR-TRIM-CERAMIC-BALL-BEARING-STAGE-III-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-350HP/232452421387?hash=item361f3e770b:g:M40AAOSwUMxZlgl N&vxp=mtr
I don't care as much about capable peek power as I do spool rate. I know this will get a lot of hate not being a name brand unit but as long as it doesn't blow up Ill be happy enough. I think I'd rather have a t25 turbo as I've heard the spool faster but I can't find a 1.6 mani for one :(

Manifold ~$150: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-Mazda-Miata-1994-2005-MX5-DOHC-1-8L-BOLT-ON-T3-T4-Cast-Iron-Turbo-Manifold/232301845299?hash=item361644db33:g:RFAAAOSwE0JY9XP F&vxp=mtr
I KNOW THIS IS A 1.8 MANI. The 1.6 manifolds are currently MIA again. This is another part I wont be buying name brand, as long as it holds, ill be happy.

Exhaust ~$400: This is the part I am most excited about lol. I am going to get at down pipe made/fitted with a cut out. after that it will be stock all the way back. If going to call the company that make them and check if it can take that kind of heat. If I can't mount on the down pipe, I will have the cat relocated and have it just before the cat. I want the quite-ness of the stock system and the rage and spool time of an open system.

Intercooler $100: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Larger-Front-Mount-Intercooler-Delta-Fin-3-I-O-31x12x4-DIY-CRX-Civic-Miata-Dodge/130959948592?epid=1264777362&hash=item1e7dd23b30:g :JXoAAMXQysxR-ojy&vxp=mtr
Again i know i need one but haven't researched the details. I dont want to completely cover the radiator, and i have A/C and power steering.

IC piping $100: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-High-Quality-2-5-ALL-Black-Intercooler-12pc-Piping-Kit-Aluminum/263495580222?hash=item3d598f7a3e:g:LkMAAOSwl8NVbLw M&vxp=mtr
Or something similar too. I will likely have to drop down to 2.25 in a spot or two and I will probably get better hoses (those look decent but I will replace them if needed)

Intake filter ~$50?:
Probably run some left over IC pipe near the DS turn signal (DIY signal intakes coming Soon ™ ) and throw a KN or similar filter on the end

Oil and Coolant hoses ~$200?:
I know i need them but not sure on the sizes. I know i will have to use an NPT tape on the pan and I keep seeing 3an oil lines mentioned. Need more research here for sure.

Boost Control $???: either manual or used electronic haven't deiced or priced yet.

Ditto for the BOV. knock off or used haven't decided yet.

I have to bee at work in 15 minutes so I feel like I'm forgetting something/s. If any thing is missing or out right wrong please say so and or correct me. If all of this is laughably pathetic please let me down gently.

Sorry for my liberal use of smiley faces. I apologize for this behavior but refuse to stop

EDIT - parts purchased/price
MS2+Sequential Injection $365
FM clutch $360
FX Racing Flywheel $140
Reman Calipers $86 (after core turn in)
Plug Wires $47
Motor Mounts $50
Rear main seal $14
Exhaust and Intake gaskets $35
deezums home depot catch can $10
cx racing intercooler $86
turbo gasket set $10
Gm sensor $21
Dipstick handle $10
Ebay mani $260
Turbo rebuild kit $80: Private sale no link
DIY Oil Filter relocation Kit $50: More on this later

_______________________________________
Total so far: $2,014

funkyanchovies

If you've read enough on this forum, you know that the money invested in a 1.8 essentially has exponentially larger benefits compared to it being invested in a 1.6.

At the end of the day it comes down to power goals and how you drive - this will determine the 'reliability' of the build. The 150-200hp target is very doable on a stock motor so long as your torque management is good.

The ChinaChargers have proven to work (obviously not as good as an EFR), however I'm unsure if the ball-bearing chinacharger's are a good idea or not - I haven't looked into ballbearing china-chargers in the past, I've only known the journal bearings ones to work.

The ebay manifold will likely need to have the faces machined flat, and potentially have some parts smoothed out. The two TacoTaco manifolds I've seen in person were not necessarily horrible, just a bit rough all round.

I've personally never really seen the point of boost + AFR gauges, when the ECU has built-in protection that you can utilise to your advantage - nothing wrong with having them there, but once it's tuned it shouldn't be wavering too much.
Closed loop fueling and boost control go a long way, as do boost and AFR cuts put in place.

You will be told by others that your choice of injectors is suicidal. If you want a cheap option I'd recommend the FlowForce injectors, or you can opt for Injector Dynamics.
Most aftermarket injector companies will claim that their injectors are flow matched and paired accordingly, however this is often dog-****. They may only be useful in WOT situations and idle terribly. If the DeadTime data is incorrect you're going to be wasting to much time tuning rubbish injectors, and using correction tables incorrectly to try and fix the problems of said injectors.

Budget intercoolers may work on the street but they will most certainly heat-soak on the track. It may not work as efficiently as a 'good' intercooler, but it may make do. I have never looked up this particular intercooler, perhaps others can shed light on their experiences with it.

I always recommend EBC over MBC as you can target different boost levels dependant on throttle position.

You will need an Air Temp sensor, I believe most still use some form of open element GM sensor.

You mention that you don't want to swap transmissions, but with 5 speeds you may be able to get away with 250tq for a while but it has a significantly lower threshold for shattering than the 6 speed.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Wrong turbo, too big for your goals, and External wastegate, you want internal wastegate turbo, or you will spend a fortune on making an EWG downpipe that plumbs into your exhaust.

If a 1.6L T25 tacotaco manifold is available, get that and a turbo from a Nissan sr20det 240sx s13 or s14. these are proven garrett turbos, they spool very well and will get you to about 220hp with a nice and responsive spool. as compared to your T3 which will be basically no power until like 4500 rpm, and then whaaammm. these can be gotten on the cheap from the drifterz on facebook, like $100. as they all upgrade them to larger turbos.

Intercooler too big.

Injectors, you want Flowforce 630cc, cost $300, and most popular and recommended injectors here.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

You listed a tube and fin intercooler, you want a bar and plate.

Mishimoto MMINT-UZ Universal Intercooler Z Line
You can find them cheaper than that if you shop.

As mentioned you want a take off garret 2554, right up your alley for power and will actually spool in this century.

x_25

At your power goals, cheap copper pkugs will do fine (the $2.50 ones at the parts store. Just get the NGKs). Also, stock coils will do fine if you gap the plugs down.

You want the flow force injectors. Get a cheaper boost guage (you don't really need one) and put the money from that into better injectors.

I would reccomend looking into a Kraken kit for manifold and lines and such. Can get either the T25 and do the turbo everyone is suggesting, or get the subie flange one and get a TD04L-13T of a WRX.

Schroedinger

soot

I would also strongly suggest looking at a Kraken setup for your manifold/downpipe. It won't need to be machined flat, it's cast (shouldn't crack) and you can get a premade downpipe that will actually fit the car. It may look like a little bit more up front, but it should save you some cash in the end. The other bonus is you have more turbo options. You could run a WRX TD04 if you wanted a cheap non china turbo option, or still go with any of the proven chinachargers, just order the appropriate downpipe/manifold.

Edit: if you just care about spool a TD04 should spool nice and fast on the 1.6

90LowNSlo

I appreciate all of the input. I will defiantly change the injectors, what's another $200 right? I just threw the coils in there because the guy I bought the MS from was throwing in some connectors for them so I figured why not. If it wont hurt I may still upgrade them... or not we shall see. I originally wanted to go t25 turbo but had a hard time finding a manifold for one. if the t3/4 is that much slower spooling then I will keep an eye out for the correct mani. I'll do more searching for the IC as well, I literally just linked the first on I saw that looked rightish. I'm at work right now but I will comb through the post again later when I have more time. Thanks again everyone for the help.

irollgen4s

Take a look over at my Kraken thread in the pre made turbo discussion. I just boosted my short nose 1.6(100K miles, was previously supercharged as indicated by several stickers under the hood and gas cap) that comrpession tested 155 on all 4 cylinders. t25 manifold and exhaust from kraken and if you get a more expensive kit he includes every single fitting, feed and drain lines that you will need. the s13 sr20 turbo's are perfect for the 1.6, it spools very quickly and makes the car how it should have came from the factory(im running 7.5, Manual boost controller). The kraken kit is some nice stuff and his prices really are fantastic for the quality of the product. His parts made me a very happy customer!

I'm also running the FF injectors and they're worth the money. I tried to cheap out with Tan tops my first go around and they ran out of fuel at 6 PSI on my car.

Otherwise everything seems solid. I'm running the stock coils with my bk6re plugs gapped to .025? I think, whatever came up when i searched around a bit.

90LowNSlo

I've been eying the Kraken stuff it definitely looks top notch. Its all going to come down to pricing. I told my wife $2000 and I'm way over that already lol. If I can squeeze it out though it would be my first choice for sure. I think I'm going to run the rx8 yellow tops, quality pieces but a bit cheaper. If I can't source them in a reasonable time Ill go FF. My MS should ship out today or tomorrow, I'm super excited. Thanks again for all the input guys.

90LowNSlo

Coming home from work just now went for a short drive and the car felt slow, as in slower. I let the clutch out at 35mph and the car came to a dead stop on an up hill incline. FML. Pretty sure the front passenger brake is locked up, could smell brake shoe it on that side. I hoping the kid did his own brake pads and just didnt adjust them right. This was the first time I really got on the brakes HARD (van pulled in front of me) and after that is when I noticed it. Ill be tackling that in the morning, hopefully I can get it sorted in time to make the gun show.

I see a set of ceramic pads in my near future...

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

RX8 injectors are a great, cheap alternative for just over 200 whp. The problem is the market has been flooded with cheap China knock off's with very poor quality. It's darn near impossible to find a set that you know is OEM. Proceed with caution.

soot

Flow force injectors are SO nice to tune. I know you're trying to be budget minded, but even for a low power build, buy it once - buy it right. Take longer to build it, but end up with a nicer car. Getting crappy Chinese rip offs would suck...

Also, being fuel limited on your build is a massive bummer.

borka

iTrader: (1)

there is no wrong way to install pads, they only go in one way. If brake is locked up, then caliper might be seized and needs to be replaced.

90LowNSlo

I know they have to also be adjusted though right? as in how far they are from the disk. I moved in around the drive way and it was fine, so i went ahead and took it to the parts store for some more brake fluid. It was fine the whole way. on the way back I hit the brake hard and sure enough it "locked" up again...

borka

iTrader: (1)

fronts have zero adjustment. Rears need to be adjusted for the hand brake to work correctly with an Allen screw

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

That's text book corroded pistons sticking.....replace caliper and slider hardware.

hi_im_sean

iTrader: (3)

90LowNSlo

Time for brake upgrade? I wasn't really ready to do that yet. I need a bolt on upgrade (newer miata brake set?) that doesn't cost $1000. If I'm going to replace one, might as well do both. If I'm going to replace both might as well upgrade. I have more research to do... (and i just bought the FM clutch. its only money right?)
WTF lol

AnotherEdit: I'd really prefer a Wilwood kit but I just dont have that kind of cash right now, or rather I wouldn't be able to complete the turbo build.

borka

iTrader: (1)

a rebuilt caliper from autozone is like $50, no big deal.

$1000 brake upgrade? lol, you dont need that baller stuff, 1.8 brakes will be a good and cheap upgrade. or 1.8 sport brakes, but only if your wheels will fit over the larger sport brakes, oem 1.6L wheels will not.

Find a pull-it-yourself junk yard in your area that has a 1.8 miata in stock, and pull the brakes. (calipers, lines, pads, rotors) etc... and whaamm, you have good upgraded brakes for $100 ish