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Old 04-26-2011, 06:11 PM   #1
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Default Making my list: turbo build help for a n00b

2001 1.8L VVT

Now before I begin, this is a pre-build thread. I'm a college student so I don't have large gobs of money to throw at parts all at once...I'll need time to gather everything, look for deals, find used stuff...

My reason for making this thread is I've never done a turbo build on my own before. I've done a SC build and a pretty good N/A build so I have experience with motors, I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. I would just buy a complete kit, but as I said I don't have access to loads of money so I want to find the cheapest route possible.

My goals are at least 175whp, max 225whp. I want to run meth (I already have the kit from my last car) and run a small enough turbo so I can spool quickly while autoxing and something that won't have a massive boost spike making the car harder to control. For all intents and purposes, let's say I want to make 200whp with meth and do it as cheaply as possible (hopefully on stock ecu). I don't want to be cheap to the point of low grade parts and I don't expect this to be like $500...I'm sure you catch my drift.

So here is the list of parts I know I need:

-turbo (a buddy offered me a nissan T25)
-manifold
-full exhaust
-Bipes ACU
-FMU
-in-line fuel pump
-o2 signal modifier
-external wastegate
-manual boost controller
-intercooler and piping
-BOV
-heat shielding
-oil lines for turbo
-cone filter for turbo inlet
-catch can
-wideband
-MS or microsquirt DIYPNP
-larger injectors
-SQUARE TOP (if I can ******* find one)

Am I missing anything? As I said, I'm a n00b! I read up on the DIY sticky and I got a lot of info from there but I just want to be sure of everything.

Since stock ecu seems to be a big money saver, I want to try that...but how do you tune the car?

I appreciate anyone who takes the time to look at this thread. Thank you in advance for any help

Last edited by spitefulcheerio; 04-26-2011 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:21 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitefulcheerio View Post

-turbo (a buddy offered me a nissan T25)
-manifold
-full exhaust
-Bipes ACU - no
-FMU - no
-in-line fuel pump - no
-o2 signal modifier -no
-external wastegate -no
-manual boost controller -no
-intercooler and piping
-BPV -don't need
-heat shielding ~meh
-oil lines for turbo
-cone filter for turbo inlet
-catch can -no
-wideband -yes
Megasquirt it instead and use some fuel injectors
screw stock ecu
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:26 PM   #3
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MS will allow to do the same thing as all of those parts? Damn...I completely underestimated MS. I was looking at their microsquirt module. I'd have to wire up everything myself but it's cheap! Like $300 with the harness and VVT controller.

Would a microsquirt function the same as the MS does?

And I was thinking BPV instead of BOV for more of a "sleeper" feel. Maybe they make quiet BOVs lol

Bigger injectors? I guess I could find those for cheap. Any cc recontamination?
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:38 PM   #4
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I don't have vvt so I can't help you there but others can, I ran with band aids as they are called. I will never again if I have an option for engine managment.
the MS will replace a few of those items, you will still need eventually a fuel pump to handle more fuel flow, bigger injectors, wideband to tune with.

for fuel injectors you could look at using something like old rx7 EV1 based 460cc fuel injectors, but I'd look for a newer bosch EV based fuel injector instead.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:44 PM   #5
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Okay, I'll look into the bosch ones!

Like I said, I'm not looking to make large numbers! I just want more power while retaining autox functionality and control. I think 200whp will suit me just fine. At this point, I shouldn't need big injectors, bigger fuel pump, ect right?
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:49 PM   #6
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$300 with the harness and VVT controller? Microsquirt module is $250 by itself and you need more mods to make it work - you can't just solder wires in the wirepads. VVT controller is $200.
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Old 04-26-2011, 06:53 PM   #7
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Oh okay! I must have misunderstood the person I was emailing with at DIYautotune...he said the module and the wires were all I needed. All I would have to do is wire everything up and I could tune the car, according to him. (I meant to say without VVT controller!)

If that's not the truth, what else would I need?
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:00 PM   #8
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It depends on your car specs, ie do you have A/C, P/S, etc.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:02 PM   #9
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Specs: A/C, P/S, no ABS, sport-s suspension package, 6spd, torsen II rear. Anything else?
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:08 PM   #10
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Two options:

1) Get a DIYPNP, build the alternator control circuit, live with almost stalling when the A/C kicks in or you turn the steering when parking. Cost ~$450.
2) Get one of the Enhanced DIYPNPs that I sell. These are completely PNP, control everything on the car properly (minus the emmisions equipment - EGR, evap), the car is almost like stock, but they are probably out of your college student's budget at $780.
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Old 04-26-2011, 07:13 PM   #11
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Hmmmmm I could definitely live with those crappy elements but if I can work out the money for the nice DIYPNP you sell, I'll for sure get that
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitefulcheerio View Post

And I was thinking BPV instead of BOV for more of a "sleeper" feel. Maybe they make quiet BOVs lol
There is a thread about this on the front page of this forum.
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:46 PM   #13
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MS3 should soon properly be able to control VVT also and work with sequential fuel and spark. It is a bit harder to get working then Reverent's solutions, but it is also another option.

Also I think the Squartop IM is probably a waste of money at the power levels you are shooting for. If you want a little better then your stock one you could pick up a 99 IM with Vics for about $100.

I ran a 2554 on my bone stock 94 and made approximately 200 hp and 200ft/lbs at about 10psi. Was an awesome setup for autox.
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant View Post
Two options:

1) Get a DIYPNP, build the alternator control circuit, live with almost stalling when the A/C kicks in or you turn the steering when parking. Cost ~$450.
2) Get one of the Enhanced DIYPNPs that I sell. These are completely PNP, control everything on the car properly (minus the emmisions equipment - EGR, evap), the car is almost like stock, but they are probably out of your college student's budget at $780.
I thought if you ran the DIYPNP as a piggyback instead of stand-alone then the stock ECU would continue to control things like A/C, or did I misunderstand something I read?

And I don't think you need the full exhaust, but I could easily be wrong. It will however help you make more power. I think i read on FlyinMiata that 3" is what's recommended for turbo'd cars, but it looks like they have a 2.5 to 3" that bolts to your stock downpipe, maybe that'll save you some $.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post
I thought if you ran the DIYPNP as a piggyback instead of stand-alone then the stock ECU would continue to control things like A/C, or did I misunderstand something I read?
I went this route with the MS1. It was a very bad idea. The stock ECU is using both the idle valve and the ignition to control the idle. As soon as you remove the ignition control from the stock ECU, the idle will begin oscillating, up and down.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:05 AM   #16
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MS3 should soon properly be able to control VVT also and work with sequential fuel and spark. It is a bit harder to get working then Reverent's solutions, but it is also another option.

Also I think the Squartop IM is probably a waste of money at the power levels you are shooting for. If you want a little better then your stock one you could pick up a 99 IM with Vics for about $100.

I ran a 2554 on my bone stock 94 and made approximately 200 hp and 200ft/lbs at about 10psi. Was an awesome setup for autox.
Isn't ms3 really expensive?

Is the 99-00 really better? I know mine and the 99-00 both have vtis. Is vcis really that good?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gearhead_318 View Post

And I don't think you need the full exhaust, but I could easily be wrong. It will however help you make more power. I think i read on FlyinMiata that 3" is what's recommended for turbo'd cars, but it looks like they have a 2.5 to 3" that bolts to your stock downpipe, maybe that'll save you some $.
I know it's not necessary but I want to gather as much power from my mods as I can. Plus, one of my friends can weld up a seriously good exhaust system!
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:31 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitefulcheerio View Post
Isn't ms3 really expensive?

Is the 99-00 really better? I know mine and the 99-00 both have vtis. Is vcis really that good?

I know it's not necessary but I want to gather as much power from my mods as I can. Plus, one of my friends can weld up a seriously good exhaust system!
Ms3 for just the kit and what not is not to much more then a DIYPNP. Getting someone to assemble it for you will be a little bit more. Compared to AEM, Hydra, Adaptronic, it is not that expensive.

The 99-00 IM is better then the 01+ IM. Here is a thread with a little bit more info about it.

For an exhaust 3inch is the only acceptable size to go with. Cost wise it is only marginally more then 2.5inch, but it will definitely help out spool a lot.
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Ms3 for just the kit and what not is not to much more then a DIYPNP. Getting someone to assemble it for you will be a little bit more. Compared to AEM, Hydra, Adaptronic, it is not that expensive.

The 99-00 IM is better then the 01+ IM. Here is a thread with a little bit more info about it.

For an exhaust 3inch is the only acceptable size to go with. Cost wise it is only marginally more then 2.5inch, but it will definitely help out spool a lot.
The guy who will be helping me tune the car is fluent in everything electronic. He'll help me wire up anything related to the ECU! Does that mean that MS3 is more for me?

If I can pick up a square top for less than $300 shipped, I'd rather have that. But if I can't, I'll definitely go with a 99-00 VCIS manifold! Thank you for that link

As for exhaust, I should match the dp to the outlet of my turbo and taper it out to 3" at the end, right? Then have a full 3" after that
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Old 04-27-2011, 04:45 PM   #19
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I'd go 3" if I were to do it again
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:21 PM   #20
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I'm definitely gonna go 3"

Would bigger injectors be a necessity? From what I've read, my stockers can handle 200whp. It'd probably be worth if to get bigger ones anyway
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