MBC or EBC? or just personal preference?
 

Is there any real advantage of an electronic boost controller over a manual other than ease of use and accuracy? does it offer that much better boost response and more constant/accurate boost throughout the rpm range to warrant its price? or is it all just personal preference?

An EBC will hold the wastegate fully closed until target boost is reached. An MBC will perform better than an open wastegate line, but will open the wastegate prior to your target boost since it utilizes a spring which is not an on/off mechanism like a solenoid is.

So it will yield target boost at a lower rpm when compared to an MBC.

I made a thread like this before.

EBC was the unanimous choice.

Without MS, EBC is expensive. With MS it's only like $30 more than MBC, or less even if you're crafty. Your choice, both increase boost just fine. Depends on how much boost control you actually want.

MBC.
At first EBC seemed to be fine, but after 3-5 successful weekends at set 9 psi Tullos EBC decided to stay open at 7 psi wastegate spring pressure. I was pretty much on my own to figure out why that started to happen, never did figure it out, but during troubleshooting I managed to jam ebc closed and ran the engine without boost control for 20 minutes. Running with 17+ boost was done by choice and not ignorance.

Ordered MBC for this coming season, that one I can troubleshoot and there is no wires to melt during 3 hour road race or when wastegate starts leaking.

hrk

Without MS, MBC is far and away more cost effective.

Having said that, if I see an MS and a manual boost controller on someone's car and the next words out of their mouth aren't "The EBC solenoid is on order" I'm going to sock them in the face. :)

I've been running MBC for 4-5 months now with no issue. Finally figured out how to get the damn thing to stop clicking on startup, too. :)

EBC all the way. Used Profec's are around $200 all day on eBay. And with most EBC's, you've got three levels of boost at your fingertips: Off (wastegate psi), low and high. Much better than pulling over to the side of the road, popping your hood and tweaking the knob.

C

check out Ben's dyno chart showing with mbc and ebc- amazing :eek:

yah, but I see a 2.5" DP, more boost and a MS in the mix too ! :bigtu:

my intention was to point out the difference in his runs on the same dyno sheet

specifically this one: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...4&postcount=15

nice link

so does that mean that his particular MBC had reached its limit and wasnt able to produce constant boost?

Anyone else see something wrong with the plot or am i as brain dead as i feel?

Ok seriously why isnt the cross over of torque and HP at 5252 RPM?

because the hp and tp scaling doesn't match. two different X axis values.

it means he was able to tune out a loss of boost due to the crap wastegate the greddy kit gives you. since you can tune per RPM, he was able to close the solenoid fully near redline to keep the boost curve flat, 1 psi loss at redline from peak.

i actually tune mine to make 1-2psi more at redline so my torque stays flat.

Yeah but the RPM scale doesn't change

Point where it crosses over will change vertically but not move to a higher RPM

if TQ is scaled to 227 and HP scaled to 255, then 5252 crossover wont happen on that particular plot.


ready..... case & point:

yeah your right holy shit im brain dead. Hmmm Useless RPM

Boost per RPM, sweet trick. Are you and him using the MS ebc? If you do that, can you also do gear based boost?

C