Miata 1.6 + GT28RS BB ??
 

Hello.

I'm new on this forum, and my english is very bad :facepalm:

So, i have a 1.6 miata turbo with this setup:

-Megasquirt Pnp ECU
-430cc Supra Bi-turbo Injectors
-KnockSenseMS
-Dyn Dual Feed Rail
-AEM Wideband
-Complete XTD Racing clutch kit & light flywheel
-Wiseco Turbo pistons 8:5
-ARP Head Studs
-Forged Connecting Rods
-Mazda 323 Turbo PCV Valve
-Intercooler

Now i buy a new turbo:

TURBO GT28RS BALL BEARING
0.60 A/R
TURBINE: .86 A/R
TRIM: 60


I liked your opnion about this configuration

Best regards

Opinion on what?
And what are you looking to accomplish with the car? Drag? Road race? Street car?

Because that is a fairly large turbo for a 1.6, and if you're looking for quick spool or good midrange you might want to look into something smaller.

I've driven that exact setup, down to the turbine A/R. That turbo is too big for a 1.6, IMO. You want to be looking at a 2560R, or a built 1.8 motor.

How too big ? How the turbo spool ?

The turbo spool was pretty bad, worse than I would want to live with on the street or the track. My 2871R with the same .86 A/R turbine housing on my built 1.9 liter spools much faster. The 2860RS on the 1.6 wouldn't kick hard until after 4500rpm, and there was a serious lag in power after every shift as well. Simply too big for the motor. My 2871R with another 250cc of displacement is at full grunt by 4000rpm, and while there is a small delay between shifts, it's about half of what the 1.6/2860RS was.

Hmmm, Im at 16psi by 4200 rpms with my 2871 on my 1.6. My turbine is a .64 though.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Yes. Too big

I like mine just fine. Kthnxbye.

:noob::vash::vash:

I gona try change for a :

1º
T3
. 48 A/R COMPRESSOR
.60 A/R TURBINE
.60 TRIM

or
2º
GT25 (BALL BEARING)
0.60 A/R
TURBINE: .49 A/R
TRIM: 55

????
What is the best in your's opinion ? ( for the 1.6L)

What are your goals? What do you plan to do with the car?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

Street road ( maybe a drift too ;) )

That T3 might work, although I'll let Scott comment on the exact size since I'm not a T3 guru.

You want that GT25 (.60 comp a/r = GT2560R) with a .64 turbine A/R, NOT the .49 turbine A/R.

But the seller only have this 3 turbos

I buy the gt28, but maybe i can speak with him to change.

In your opnion, who make a better street car ?

Ps.
Sorry for bad english :vash:

Here is a gt28rs .86ar hotside on a stock 1.6l

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/m...otta-dyno1.jpg

The full boost is at rpm ??

He's hitting full boost there at about 4400rpm and he had a damaged turbine wheel when he did that dyno.

Is this car ? :bowrofl:
YouTube - WMHM8 Miotta In Car part 1

what is so funny?

Attachment 203785

I rest my case.

What case would that be exactly? Dave is running like 4lbs less than you in his dyno. Plus his damaged turbine isn't exactly helping his spool in that dyno.

Both of you have approx 180tq at redline, you just have more before that because you are running like 15 or more psi. There is not boost plot on your dyno, but it is safe to guess that you hit peak boost near peak tq because of the falloff afterward. IF that assumption is correct it looksl ike you hit peak boost around the same time as well. I think your dyno and Daves dynos would be VERY similar at the same boost.

I think you're on crack.

Me vs Dave (ft.lbs):

3000rpm: 140 vs. 126
3500rpm: 165 vs. 145
4000rpm: 200 vs 150
4500rpm: 250 vs 180

You want to talk about boost levels? One of the reasons my torque is so much better is because I'm seeing 14psi at 4400rpm, whereas Dave is seeing 10.3psi at 4400rpm - even though I have a larger compressor and the exact same hotside. My manifold helps, but not that much, guys. The damaged wheel hurts him, but I've driven his exact setup - it drives like that dyno graph says it does. Spools very late, comes in very hard.

To review:
-he spools way slower
-the power hits harder (torque rises faster and faster as revs increase, vs a smooth increase like mine) which makes the car harder to drive
-i make more torque everywhere, even with a larger turbo

It's nothing personal at all against him, but it is personal against the 1.6/2860RS .86 combo. It's a bad combo - too little displacement and too much turbo. After driving that 2860RS car, and then riding in another car with a 1.9 liter and a 2860RS, and then driving my car, I've come to the conclusion that anything larger than a 2560R on a 1.6 isn't all that great an idea - larger than a 2560R and you'll spool like crap, and then blow up the motor anyway. If you're building an engine to handle the power, you may as well build a 1.8/1.9, and then you've got the displacement to run a big turbo with good driveability.

Ya but yours says corrected flywheel HP his does not. FWHP<RWHP

Mine is whp.

As mentioned I have damaged turbine goodness in there.

I am on Scotts old timing maps and a simple fuel tune. Nothing really tuned.

I am also running a turbo manifold with runner sized for like 600whp+ big turbo builds... annoyed with that from time to time, but it feels great on track so who cares?

I am also running a good amount less boost... on a 100% stock 1.6L.

You guys honestly think I'm stupid enough to compare a FWHP to a WHP chart? My chart is WHP too. Ignore the stupid viewing program.

It doesn't matter how much boost you're running - running less boost doesn't change the fact that you don't get to 10psi until 4400rpm. The turbo is too big for the motor, in my opinion. You're better off building a 1.8 to take advantage of the headroom of a turbo like that, or running a 2560 because on a stock 1.6, you can make enough power on a 2560 to blow it up anyway.

i use a 2854 and i get 12lbs at 3900rpm on a stock 1.6

what if you ran something like flatshift on the 1.6 to keep it in boost between shifts?

it wont make THAT much difference but it should help a little bit. i dont think it will be significant enough because it doesnt change powerband

it wouldnt change the poweband, it woudl just assist in keeping it alot more driveable for road racing style driving.
would keep you at the max power for that rpm because your still at or close to max boost.

upgrading to a 1.8 makes sense but sometimes people have strange goals.

[QUOTE=Savington;451144]You guys honestly think I'm stupid enough to compare a FWHP to a WHP chart? My chart is WHP too. Ignore the stupid viewing program.

I was actually quite surprised but thanks for clarifying.

So, i speak with the seller and he change the turbo for the GT25 (BALL BEARING)
0.60 A/R
TURBINE: .49 A/R
TRIM: 55

Witch my new future setup what can i expected ? ( the best results in yours opnions)
If yours know a identic setup , tell me know


Ps.
He dont have with .60 A/R :(

With that .49 A/R, it's anyone's guess. 200whp? 220whp, MAYBE? If you must purchase from that seller, then I'd say go for it, and purchase a .64 A/R housing from someone else. The wheels are the same between the various A/Rs so they should all swap right in.

What country are you from?

but i think is spool very fast and early no ?

It would spool pretty quickly, yeah. The .64 A/R turbine would still be a better option.

the T3 looks interesting, of course you probably need either an adapter or new manifold\redone manifold
but here is some data on spool
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t26641/
first post has a T3 I'm guessing but don't know for sure that looks somewhat like the turbo in the first post.
Of course I take it also comes down to alot of other variables in the setup, piping, exhaust, etc

You'd want a 60 trim T3 with a Stage I .48 A/R turbine, that would be comparable with a journal bearing 2860 with a .63 A/R more or less.

http://boostedmiata.com/random/t3vs2560.jpg