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Old 09-12-2017, 03:56 PM   #1
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Default Miata not starting

So here's the rundown. I bought a 94 miata about a year and a half ago with under 10k miles. For the past year I've been buying turbo parts and doing research. Finally I decided to start and instead of doing it part by part and checking to see if it ran good after each part installed I did everything at once. Which now turned to bite me in the butt. So roughly here's what I have in the build.
gt2560r turbo
500cc injectors. New plugs wired onto harness.
bigger clutch
lighter flywheel
bigger aluminum rad
megasquirt2 pnp
EBay intercooler
etc.
ok so I started my project by pulling my motor. I pulled it because it sat for awhile looked like **** and I wanted to paint some things on it. Which would be way easier out. I also did a timing belt, water pump and replaced seals, clutch, flywheel, T.O. bearing. and rewraped my wireing harness red. The black was old and looked like hell. Then i Put the motor back in. Deleted some things like the charcoal canister. Egr. And relocated some things. Cruise control, power steering resevoir and diagnostics box. Then i Put in the rad and intercooler on as well as all the piping. Everything was good to go new magnecore spark plug wires and spark plugs. Put fluids in loaded firmware and basemap onto megasquirt and went to turn the key. It starter rather quick but ran like **** with lots of throttle needed to keep running for about 15 seconds then it died out and I couldn't restart it. So I tweaked some things in tuner studio hoping it would start up again but it didn't it would just crank and try to turn over every once in awhile. a few days went by and still no luck so I talked to the guys at diy sent them my tune and a log of me trying to start it. They said my tune looked good but my map wasnt getting a good vacuum during cranking. So i changed my location and teed off the manifold and fpr line. Still no luck. At this point I thought it could be timing so I took off my valve cover to find my timing spot on! 19 teeth on belt in between the I and e line directly on the t mark down next to crank pulley. Checked my coil plugs, they aren't switched I double checked Brown and yellow plug feeds cylender 1 and 4. I have spark at each calendar and I have fuel at each calendar. With a timing light while cranking my white mark on crank pully bounces between 8.5 and 10... I've tried everything I know at this point and could use any advice anyone has thanks.
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Old 09-12-2017, 04:09 PM   #2
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Inb4 everyone says it, post a log and your tune.
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Old 09-12-2017, 05:35 PM   #3
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Old 09-13-2017, 09:30 PM   #4
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Checked you vac line? I dont see the numbers go very far down signaling vacuum

I see you have 2 barometric sensors- Is that correct ? What MS is this?
Idle frequency seems high. try 320hz or so

Last edited by YeboGoGo; 09-13-2017 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:50 PM   #5
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-Yeah checked the vac lines I have basically all new vacuum line due to rerouting things. Reused some but cut off the stretched ends.
-as far as the sensors. Not sure. I believe there is 2. Right next to the IM right under the fuel lines? I temporarily hooked them back up I had them disconnected read on a egr delete thread you didnt need any of that b.s. I'll send another log now.
-And pnp2.
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Old 09-13-2017, 11:56 PM   #6
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that's the log after connecting those 2 plugs...
Attached Files
File Type: msl log 3.msl (274.3 KB, 7 views)
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Old 09-14-2017, 11:22 AM   #7
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There is only 1. change it to "Use initial value". Those 2 connectors do not matter.

Also your battery goes to 8 volts. Charge that thing ! That certainly is helping
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Old 09-14-2017, 08:56 PM   #8
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Might sound stupid but are your fuel lines crossed?
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:03 AM   #9
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No, already checked one with white dot to supply side.
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