mita nb 1999 miata nb fuel pulsation damper net to passanger side shock tower questi
03-28-2012, 01:11 PM
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mita nb 1999 miata nb fuel pulsation damper net to passanger side shock tower questi
I damaged one of the fittings on one of the 2 ( i believe) fuel pulsation damper so I either need to figure out how to remove the weird fittings and replace with a new factory unit or I need to delete the damper and or modify the fuel rail and make it a return system.
I'm not an expert on this issue so any advise would be helpful. I
my car is really for track use only and has a FMI kit with a tec-II stand alone.
I know the nb is a pretty high pressure and I would like to avoid retuning. I dont think removing the damper will affect fuel pressure but i'm not sure.
If I remove the damper what type of line in fittings is best to use. I would like to avoid removing the rail because half the car is apart.
is their a reliable way to patch the plastic line or splice it into the hard line?
if someone who has modified the fuel system could help me out it would be very helpful.
I'm not an expert on this issue so any advise would be helpful. I
my car is really for track use only and has a FMI kit with a tec-II stand alone.
I know the nb is a pretty high pressure and I would like to avoid retuning. I dont think removing the damper will affect fuel pressure but i'm not sure.
If I remove the damper what type of line in fittings is best to use. I would like to avoid removing the rail because half the car is apart.
is their a reliable way to patch the plastic line or splice it into the hard line?
if someone who has modified the fuel system could help me out it would be very helpful.
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03-28-2012, 03:53 PM
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so a FU I did a little research and I have a plan but please feel free to chime in.
it looks like I may need to go ahead and pull the rail which is a pain in the *** but whatever. I want to make sure this is done right because I track a lot and I don't wear a fire suit.
the most "professional thing to do is go from the hard line to the rail and flair the hard pipe and add a hard pipe to AN fitting basically you stick a threaded cap on the hard line slide on a ferrule and then flair to 37% for an stranded (per the interweb) then go AN fuel line, going to use the fancy light weight fire proof stuff, because it is really high rated psi and NOT stainless which will rum through everything. then do the same thing on the rail. assuming I can let the shop down the street to lend me a flair tool, it should not cost more then 40 bucks in parts. I hope to find the the flair fitting in a male so I dont have to pay for the f to m adapter. could just use the hose clamp and I'm sure it will work fine, as many people do it however with the stress of track, it not a weak link I want to think about.
please chime in if you have any worthwhile input.
it looks like I may need to go ahead and pull the rail which is a pain in the *** but whatever. I want to make sure this is done right because I track a lot and I don't wear a fire suit.
the most "professional thing to do is go from the hard line to the rail and flair the hard pipe and add a hard pipe to AN fitting basically you stick a threaded cap on the hard line slide on a ferrule and then flair to 37% for an stranded (per the interweb) then go AN fuel line, going to use the fancy light weight fire proof stuff, because it is really high rated psi and NOT stainless which will rum through everything. then do the same thing on the rail. assuming I can let the shop down the street to lend me a flair tool, it should not cost more then 40 bucks in parts. I hope to find the the flair fitting in a male so I dont have to pay for the f to m adapter. could just use the hose clamp and I'm sure it will work fine, as many people do it however with the stress of track, it not a weak link I want to think about.
please chime in if you have any worthwhile input.
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07-12-2012, 06:02 PM
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yeah, I solved the problem, and for once it was really easy. I went to the auto parts store and they sell a "special" brass compression fitting for joining or patching plastic fuel line. at some point I would like replace the plastic lines but, for now, that is way down on the to do list.
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